A long time ago were seized solid, and I took a temper tantrum with those blerry arms on my freelander, and I've had nae bother with them since.
What I did was used an Irwin bolt extractor like this one:
and hammered it on to the head of the rivet, on the inboard side of the arm where its flat against the brakes backplate.
I then put a socket on the hex, put an impact gun on the socket, set the gun to reverse as the rifling on these is lefthanded, and gave it a right good spinning with the gun while spraying WD40 or GT85 into the gap between the clevis that the cable goes onto and the arm itself.
This freed the rivet relative to the arm, but the cable clevis started spinning, still stuck to the rivet.
So I put the clevis in a vice only and continued, only stopping when the WD40 was running clear or near as damn it.
Then quick jag of the gun in tightening mode reversed the rifling and disengaged the bolt extractor from the rivet, and the clevis burled like a
perie.
I then dried it off with a rag, put a dab of ceramic grease between the arm and the clevis, and it's trouble free now, I only need to grease it when I'm changing shoes now.
Essentially what I did was break off all the rust from the ID of both the arm and the rust & WD acted like a grinding paste and "lapped" the ID's to be slightly oversize, it doesn't affect day to day breaking as this is the arm for the handbrake cable to work the bottom of the shoes, but introducing some slack means its harder for it to seize up again.
What I did was used an Irwin bolt extractor like this one:
and hammered it on to the head of the rivet, on the inboard side of the arm where its flat against the brakes backplate.
I then put a socket on the hex, put an impact gun on the socket, set the gun to reverse as the rifling on these is lefthanded, and gave it a right good spinning with the gun while spraying WD40 or GT85 into the gap between the clevis that the cable goes onto and the arm itself.
This freed the rivet relative to the arm, but the cable clevis started spinning, still stuck to the rivet.
So I put the clevis in a vice only and continued, only stopping when the WD40 was running clear or near as damn it.
Then quick jag of the gun in tightening mode reversed the rifling and disengaged the bolt extractor from the rivet, and the clevis burled like a
perie.
I then dried it off with a rag, put a dab of ceramic grease between the arm and the clevis, and it's trouble free now, I only need to grease it when I'm changing shoes now.
Essentially what I did was break off all the rust from the ID of both the arm and the rust & WD acted like a grinding paste and "lapped" the ID's to be slightly oversize, it doesn't affect day to day breaking as this is the arm for the handbrake cable to work the bottom of the shoes, but introducing some slack means its harder for it to seize up again.
