I often dump half a litre or so of cheap oil in the top with the sump plug out to try and flush out the old oil.OH... and I serviced it... Interestingly, I drained the oil, and when the oil flow from the sump had stopped to a drip, I shoved the drain plug back in a couple of turns and did my rust injection for about half an hour. Then I took the sump plug out again, and was surprised to note that a good "half a mug" of old oil came out, even though I thought it had more or less all drained. The result is that the new oil isn't anything like as black as it was last time I changed it. In fact, I can hardly see it on the dipstick!
Great job on that repair!Well, I've been jolly busy on mine, now that I'm furloughed. Last year, it was damaged when a lorry with an overhanging load scraped down the side. The worst damage was the rear quarter panel but it was behind the bumper. At the time, I just taped it up with duck tape but I subsequently got the chance to cut the corner off a scrap car the same colour as mine, so I finally got round to taking the rear bumper off and fixing it properly:
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Just a sticking caliper guide pin to do now
Where you able to measure the amount you put in?VCU silicone oil arrived, so pumped it into my clean VCU ready for fitting. Have left it open on one side overnight to allow it to settle and air to come to the top!
I wondered if you could use smooth pins for both top and bottom as they are on alot of vehicles, but opted for the original set up.I've just replaced the rubber bushed pin with smooth all metal ones. Had a rubber one stick and it took a pad with it!! Seems the all metal ones are listed as fitting non vented discs, but they fit the vented discs too. No vibration or sticking since fitting.
I found it took a few days of constant pumping and turning to get the correct(ish) amount in
but opted for the original set up.
I guess pumping it in your way is much quicker.Ali, what you do in your spare time is up to you!!!
I put it in with my grease gun from the bottom until it just appeared at the top. Then left it overnight, turned it a few times and it was still visible at the top so plugged it up.
And you were talking about ME!!!!OK, make sure the hole it goes in is clean then only use rubber grease. Any oil or normal grease will swell the rubber sleeve and cause jamming later.
I swap the rubber type out for the plain type when I change the pads in the FL1.I wondered if you could use smooth pins for both top and bottom as they are on alot of vehicles, but opted for the original set up.
I used silicone lube before I slid it inI swap the rubber type out for the plain type when I change the pads in the FL1.
Don't use oil based lubricant on the rubber type. Use a silicone grease or rubber grease, or the rubber will swell again.
I felt I could make a meaningful contribution on topicThis thread has sadly gone downhill beyond repair I feel!!
Indeed - its now pure bait for the tratter boys....This thread has sadly gone downhill beyond repair I feel!!