Took my parent's shopping over to them today so drove the FL for the first time after fitting new drop links. I'm thrilled to say that the persistent knocking noise I had has now gone. What I am dissapointed with is the drop links I removed were Delphi ones that lasted only six or seven months.

Had an essential delivery today so a couple more lockdown jobs to do this week.
20200408_183221.jpg
I'm looking forward to my interior being smartened up by the gaiter. Anyone know how to remove the gear knob on the auto?

Also @andyfreelandy regarding the diff mounts, do I need to completely remove the rears to get enough movement to fit the poly front one? I guess I support the diff on a jack during the process too? Should I unbolt the rears from the diff or unbolt them from the body and leave them attached to the diff? Any tips gratefully received. The motor is up on ramps ready to go.
 
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Gear knob on auto just pulls off with the plastic button and stick.

Brain fade, but think I just disconnected the rear diff mounts from the diff and had the diff floating. Have the jack nearby but it will support itself on the driveshafts and the prop.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Brain fade, but think I just disconnected the rear diff mounts from the diff and had the diff floating. Have the jack nearby but it will support itself on the driveshafts and the prop.
Click to expand...

Thanks.
Going to give that a try in a minute. Wasn't sure if I should undo the prop or not but will give your method a go. Unfortunately I can't look on rave as I'm not at home with my pc.
 
For front diff mount yes, better to remove the prop so you have more room to wiggle the diff to squeeze the diff mounts into place. I managed to get the front diff mount, done with the side mounts still on, but it would be easier if the side mounts are removed.
 
Got the blummin thing in! Undid all three mounts but left the prop on. It was a bit of a struggle but not too bad in the end. The old one was in a right state.

20200409_175157.jpg 20200409_184347.jpg
 
Yes that is how I did it. Good shout. You will detect a bit more vibration with the poly. My diff and rear end of Freelander is next for refurb though. My diff is shot and has about 2 inches of play in it.

Bought car at 80k with tight VCU. Changed VCU and now done 180k!! Same diff.
 
Fl2 changed fuel filter used a electric pump from ebay on the return to tank outlet to pull fuel through filter started first time really easy method
 
andyfreelandy said:
Yes that is how I did it. Good shout. You will detect a bit more vibration with the poly. My diff and rear end of Freelander is next for refurb though. My diff is shot and has about 2 inches of play in it.

Bought car at 80k with tight VCU. Changed VCU and now done 180k!! Same diff.
Click to expand...

Where is there 2" of play? That sounds a lot!

Any tips on getting the auto gear knob off. Can't I've been pulling it hard but had no end result...
 
At the rear wheel. Sounds like a clanging bell!!

Interestingly there is some whine at speed but it is holding up. Few more months will see it replaced.

When I changed my auto leather gear change thingy I just pulled the knob upwards. Will double check manual for you.
 
Haynes says... "on automatic models pull the selector lever knob upwards and out from the selector lever".
The facelift manual says "with the selector in N pull the knob straight upwards from the lever"

The neutral bit may be important as I think you have a facelift. I don't!!!
 
andyfreelandy said:
Haynes says... "on automatic models pull the selector lever knob upwards and out from the selector lever".
The facelift manual says "with the selector in N pull the knob straight upwards from the lever"

The neutral bit may be important as I think you have a facelift. I don't!!!
Click to expand...
Yeah. Followed the instructions for the facelift (which are also on rave as I managed to find out) but I fell like I'm using far more force than I like lol.
 
The gearknob is blooming tight on auto's, both facelift and prefacelift. I changed my dash centre for a facelift one, and that included the auto selector surround, whcih was a pain to get off. I don't think the neutral position thing is essential, bar for the fact a facelift dash comes closer to the selector, so there is a likely hood of you punching the dash after the gearknob separates from the stick.

I've had both off as I dismantled my prefacelift dash, then took the facelift kob off to fit a new gator, and fir the surround / gator to my prefacelift car. I seem to recall twisting the knob tobreak the bond. It's not glued or screwed on, its just a very tight inference fit, and one that likely hasn't been disturbed in ~15 years.
 
As avove, neutral on the auto when pulling oft the gear lever gives yer a bit more room so yer don't hit the controls in front of it. Be careful yer dun't smack yerself in the face when it suddenly releases. ;)
 
andyfreelandy said:
Didn't use any glue. Transfer the base plastic rim into the new surround.
Click to expand...
Interesting. Did your new gaiter come with a plastic frame in it? Mine didn't so I've drilled out the plastic riveted ends of the original frame to release it, and peeled off the old gaiter. I have assumed I'll need to glue the new gaiter to the frame like the original was, before I refit it to the surround.
 
Checked the battery voltage yesterday afternoon; 12.2v. Hmm, bit low I thought, so put the little 4A Energiser smart charger on. It’ll be sitting quietly at 13.8v on float when I crawl out of my wanking chariot and go check it later.
 
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