Skinny Mike said:
Sometimes I think we forget how nice the Freelander is to drive.
Last week work gave me a brand spanking shiny all singing all dancing- health and safety passed- high visibility van, with just 2 miles on the clock.
It's a Citroen Relay Tipper.
I think that's all I need to say about the hateful pile of maggot infested junk.
Today I had to go to the dentist's, so I got to drive my hippo.
When I got back I gave it a little tap of thanks and the promise of a wash.
I do wish I could drive it more often:rolleyes:
Mike
Click to expand...

I share your feeling, at work I drive either a brand new peugeot partner or a citroen nemo an average of 150km every day,
I love getting in my 18 year old L-Series and drive the long way home
 
Not so much "today" but at the weekend. I've only now had time to post though. Diff supports sorted. I decided to do all three as I didn't feel the rears were 100% and I was scrabbling around underneath the machine anyway. I still have a slightly disconcerting occasional "whob whob" noise on a full right lock low speed turn which will require further investigation, BUT, the thumps and knocks from the rear are now gone. Check out the state of my front mount...

20180222_222351.jpg 20180222_222357.jpg
 
I agree Mike!
The Hippo is a joy to drive
I drive a Mercedes Sprinter service van at work and don't care for it much
Not enough power, a terrible auto gearbox that makes the Jatco look wonderful and it's awful in the snow.
Today I was coming up to a stop light and the brakes locked up at the hint of snow that was on the ground
The Sprinter started sliding like a huge curling rock with the ABS pulsing to absolutely no effect.
Luckily I was able curl it to the left enough to go between two stopped cars-Just barely!
The boss would have been very unhappy.
The Hippo handled much better on the drive home :)
 
I inherited my Td4 from my brother in law. He had the rear brakes cleaned as they were sticking badly. This has lasted about a year and are doing the same again.Is there a full kit available to do the job properly i.e drums shoes and fitting kit or just buy the parts individually? I'm not using the handbrake at all at the moment as the one side got really hot and smelly after one trip to work.
I managed to replace the rear screen after smashing the last one. The regulator adjustment was done and self explanatory but a wee note with the kit would have saved me £75 in the first place. All the inner door seals had to be siliconed into place as they were just falling off when opening and closing the doors.They had no grip at all on the car.
My wife had it in her mind she wanted to purchase a Range Rover Vogue for 4-5k.TBH she still has it in her mind. Having owned my car for a while now the thought of getting the bigger brother and the potential repair costs were daunting. So I thought I would take her to see one locally she had seen on Autotrader. Well it didnt take long for me to rip it to bits. Rear cracked lense , barely legal tyres all round,leather interior in parts coming away , rusty top strut mountings,badly rusting front to rear chassis members in engine bay,rust bubbling at rear arches. It ran smoothly , I lowered the suspension easily but it wouldnt go back up.They wanted nearly 4.5k with 150k miles on the clock. I wasnt impressed at all. I am tempted with a Volvo XC90 D6 and keep the TD4 as my daily driver.
 
Alex Blyth said:
I inherited my Td4 from my brother in law. He had the rear brakes cleaned as they were sticking badly. This has lasted about a year and are doing the same again.Is there a full kit available to do the job properly i.e drums shoes and fitting kit or just buy the parts individually? I'm not using the handbrake at all at the moment as the one side got really hot and smelly after one trip to work.
I managed to replace the rear screen after smashing the last one. The regulator adjustment was done and self explanatory but a wee note with the kit would have saved me £75 in the first place. All the inner door seals had to be siliconed into place as they were just falling off when opening and closing the doors.They had no grip at all on the car.
My wife had it in her mind she wanted to purchase a Range Rover Vogue for 4-5k.TBH she still has it in her mind. Having owned my car for a while now the thought of getting the bigger brother and the potential repair costs were daunting. So I thought I would take her to see one locally she had seen on Autotrader. Well it didnt take long for me to rip it to bits. Rear cracked lense , barely legal tyres all round,leather interior in parts coming away , rusty top strut mountings,badly rusting front to rear chassis members in engine bay,rust bubbling at rear arches. It ran smoothly , I lowered the suspension easily but it wouldnt go back up.They wanted nearly 4.5k with 150k miles on the clock. I wasnt impressed at all. I am tempted with a Volvo XC90 D6 and keep the TD4 as my daily driver.
Click to expand...

Repair kits are offered on eBay if you have a look. But it's normally the drums have a lip on them that makes them stick.
If your thinking of the Volvo, buy an automatic or you'll be up and down the box constantly on the manual, the power band is very narrow on the XC90.
Mike
 
Alex Blyth said:
I inherited my Td4 from my brother in law. He had the rear brakes cleaned as they were sticking badly. This has lasted about a year and are doing the same again.Is there a full kit available to do the job properly i.e drums shoes and fitting kit or just buy the parts individually? I'm not using the handbrake at all at the moment as the one side got really hot and smelly after one trip to work.
I managed to replace the rear screen after smashing the last one. The regulator adjustment was done and self explanatory but a wee note with the kit would have saved me £75 in the first place. All the inner door seals had to be siliconed into place as they were just falling off when opening and closing the doors.They had no grip at all on the car.
My wife had it in her mind she wanted to purchase a Range Rover Vogue for 4-5k.TBH she still has it in her mind. Having owned my car for a while now the thought of getting the bigger brother and the potential repair costs were daunting. So I thought I would take her to see one locally she had seen on Autotrader. Well it didnt take long for me to rip it to bits. Rear cracked lense , barely legal tyres all round,leather interior in parts coming away , rusty top strut mountings,badly rusting front to rear chassis members in engine bay,rust bubbling at rear arches. It ran smoothly , I lowered the suspension easily but it wouldnt go back up.They wanted nearly 4.5k with 150k miles on the clock. I wasnt impressed at all. I am tempted with a Volvo XC90 D6 and keep the TD4 as my daily driver.
Click to expand...
I've just been through the process of replacing all the rear brakes - shoes, drums, cylinders + springs & clips. The only thing I didn't replace inside the drums were the adjusters - cos I forgot about ordering them, but they were in decent condition. The parts were quite a reasonable price - not and expensive exercise. Sounds like in the UK though there's a good chance the pipes will break as you undo the cylinders though, which are not particularly cheap. I got the part numbers for all the bits from here...

http://www.allbrit.de/NAV.cfm?PAGE=600594&SPRACHE=EN

Then tapped them into here to make to build up an order (but you can use who ever!)...

https://www.lrdirect.com/
 
Today on the way to work I noticed a slight clunk from the front nearside as I straightened the steering. So I suspect another drop link is on its way out. I only replaced it in September, so I'm far from impressed. Time to look onto making a more durable pair of drop links I think.
 
TBH I'm amazed the drop links last as long as they do. They only look quite light weight, but they are taking all the forces of the strut pulling and pushing on the ARB.

I wonder how the cars behave with them removed? Probably quite poorly I suppose.
 
GrumpyGel said:
TBH I'm amazed the drop links last as long as they do. They only look quite light weight, but they are taking all the forces of the strut pulling and pushing on the ARB.

I wonder how the cars behave with them removed? Probably quite poorly I suppose.
Click to expand...
It's always the bottom joint that fails. So I'm thinking that using a steering joint on the bottom will cure the problem.

Without the ARB, it'll asolutely fine in a straight line. It'll be a bit leany in the corners though.
 
Nodge68 said:
It's always the bottom joint that fails. So I'm thinking that using a steering joint on the bottom will cure the problem.

Without the ARB, it'll asolutely fine in a straight line. It'll be a bit leany in the corners though.
Click to expand...
Out of curiosity, is it a good idea to disconnect them if you're going off road? I'd have thought it would help traction.
 
I just replaced my TD4s inner CV joints rubber boots, and when I put it all back together and reconnected the battery my rear window decided it would jam on the way down.
 
Alex Blyth said:
I inherited my Td4 from my brother in law. He had the rear brakes cleaned as they were sticking badly. This has lasted about a year and are doing the same again.Is there a full kit available to do the job properly i.e drums shoes and fitting kit or just buy the parts individually? I'm not using the handbrake at all at the moment as the one side got really hot and smelly after one trip to work.
I managed to replace the rear screen after smashing the last one. The regulator adjustment was done and self explanatory but a wee note with the kit would have saved me £75 in the first place. All the inner door seals had to be siliconed into place as they were just falling off when opening and closing the doors.They had no grip at all on the car.
My wife had it in her mind she wanted to purchase a Range Rover Vogue for 4-5k.TBH she still has it in her mind. Having owned my car for a while now the thought of getting the bigger brother and the potential repair costs were daunting. So I thought I would take her to see one locally she had seen on Autotrader. Well it didnt take long for me to rip it to bits. Rear cracked lense , barely legal tyres all round,leather interior in parts coming away , rusty top strut mountings,badly rusting front to rear chassis members in engine bay,rust bubbling at rear arches. It ran smoothly , I lowered the suspension easily but it wouldnt go back up.They wanted nearly 4.5k with 150k miles on the clock. I wasnt impressed at all. I am tempted with a Volvo XC90 D6 and keep the TD4 as my daily driver.
Click to expand...

There is nothing more expensive than a cheap Range Rover........except maybe a cheap BMW 7-series! :eek:
 
Madmustang said:
I know what you are all thinking.....why did the fool try and fix one thing when you know it will break something else. Well I thought I could get away with it so there :p
Click to expand...

I know your pain. My rear window did the exact same thing when I reconnected my battery, after changing the fuel pump seals. I ended up with a busted rear window, rain threatening and the bloody fuel pump still leaked a bit.:mad:

I used a lump of wood and a reversed wood clamp to close the window tight, after which I went and had a few beers. :D
20171022_144218.jpg
 
Nodge68 said:
I know your pain. My rear window did the exact same thing when I reconnected my battery, after changing the fuel pump seals. I ended up with a busted rear window, rain threatening and the bloody fuel pump still leaked a bit.:mad:

I used a lump of wood and a reversed wood clamp to close the window tight, after which I went and had a few beers. :D
View attachment 143079
Click to expand...
Nice, I have to work out how to get the windows down that inch in order to take the door apart. But thats for another day :rolleyes:
 
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