Alibro said:
If your wheel cylinder bolts round off like they usually do use a power file to grind the heads off. I tried everything else for over an hour including a dremel and two grinders before reaching for the right tool, the power file ground off the heads in seconds.
Click to expand...

I've given the bolts a liberal spray with easing fluid. I've got the easy to get a bolts out. The bolts that are behind the hub are rusted lumps. I normally have good luck with the air hammer. That'll take the bolts straight off in seconds. If it doesn't, I'll just use my big prybar to lever the wheel cylinders off.
It's a job I could do without. This year it's being a pain in the ass. :(
 
Nodge68 said:
I've given the bolts a liberal spray with easing fluid. I've got the easy to get a bolts out. The bolts that are behind the hub are rusted lumps. I normally have good luck with the air hammer. That'll take the bolts straight off in seconds. If it doesn't, I'll just use my big prybar to lever the wheel cylinders off.
It's a job I could do without. This year it's being a pain in the ass. :(
Click to expand...
Feelin your pain mate. my latest car has turned out to be a bit of a dog. I should have known better but hey ho. I'll have to get me one of them air hammer jobs. :)
 
Alibro said:
Feelin your pain mate. my latest car has turned out to be a bit of a dog. I should have known better but hey ho. I'll have to get me one of them air hammer jobs. :)
Click to expand...

An air hammer is a useful tool. You need a good compressor the can deliver over 12 ftpm. Otherwise they are good for all sorts of things. I used to restore classic cars and the air hammer with a V tip attachment whips through car body steel, like it's paper.
A chisel attachment is perfect for cutting stubborn bolts off.
 
Alibro said:
Feelin your pain mate. my latest car has turned out to be a bit of a dog. I should have known better but hey ho. I'll have to get me one of them air hammer jobs. :)
Click to expand...

The Freelander isn't being as bad as I make out. It's just being a pain compared to its normal behaviour. I've actually spent out nothing more than normal servicing for the 2 years I've had it. This is just a wobble, I'm sure. Once I get the new parts fitted and MOT done. I can spend my time improving it, not repairing it. :D
 
Nodge68 said:
The Freelander isn't being as bad as I make out. It's just being a pain compared to its normal behaviour. I've actually spent out nothing more than normal servicing for the 2 years I've had it. This is just a wobble, I'm sure. Once I get the new parts fitted and MOT done. I can spend my time improving it, not repairing it. :D
Click to expand...
At least you had the good sense to buy a nice clean car in the first place. I bought a fixer upper but it was worse than I first realised. Having said that it is going well atm. Touch wood :p
 
Had a FAIL this weekend. I thought I'd try an eBay COB LED festoon bulb to try and improve the interior illumination on my 3-door. It arrived and was fitted easily enough. I was eager to try it out.

Hmm. Horrid. It emits this depressing blue-white light and succeeds in being fractionally dimmer than the incandescent bulb that was originally there.

I changed it back to original. The not-quite-bright-enough yellowish light is far more preferable! LOL

Back to the drawing board. On a more positive note, I won an MGF rear view mirror for £3 that some clown cut the connector off from. Still, as it will be going into the Freelander with a wiring extension from the existing interior lamp, this shouldn't be too much of a problem :)
 
neilly said:
Looks a lot better than a crumpled piece of plastic, although it was when you reversed you tore the original loose...LOL

Cheers
Click to expand...
Absolutely - it pulled the flimsy steel brackets from the retaining screws. This one extends much further rearwards, and does away with those brackets all together. Hopefully it'll provide less to snag on if the car gets beached again. Plus, I've now fixed the intermittent "three amigo" problem with a new feel sensor and a replacement second hand yaw sensor: the HDC enabled the Freelander to crawl out of the rut without spinning its wheels :)
 
rob_bell said:
Had a FAIL this weekend. I thought I'd try an eBay COB LED festoon bulb to try and improve the interior illumination on my 3-door. It arrived and was fitted easily enough. I was eager to try it out.

Hmm. Horrid. It emits this depressing blue-white light and succeeds in being fractionally dimmer than the incandescent bulb that was originally there.

I changed it back to original. The not-quite-bright-enough yellowish light is far more preferable! LOL

Back to the drawing board. On a more positive note, I won an MGF rear view mirror for £3 that some clown cut the connector off from. Still, as it will be going into the Freelander with a wiring extension from the existing interior lamp, this shouldn't be too much of a problem :)
Click to expand...

Me too. Although I'm happy with my interior lighting.
I've got a home made LED module and a CREE module that I bought for comparison. I'm pleased with both, although they are cool white in colour.
CREE LED module.
20170728_181226.jpg

The effect in the car. The car was shaded when this picture was taken, but was daylight.
I'm happy with the results as the light is brilliant white compared to the dim festoon bulbs.
20170824_083316.jpg
 
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A DIY LED module might be the way to go Nodge - although I'd prefer a warmer temperature light (to better suit the cream interior of my pre-facelift 2001) :)
 
rob_bell said:
A DIY LED module might be the way to go Nodge - although I'd prefer a warmer temperature light (to better suit the cream interior of my pre-facelift 2001) :)
Click to expand...

I've added pictures to the post above.

I like cool because it is different to normal bulbs.

I made my front LED module because I couldn't find what I wanted at the time. It's basically 10 cool white emmiters soldered to some strip board and driven with a salvaged 400mA driver.


I've since fitted a new LED number plate lamp, which uses a re-purposed warm while LED panel from an LED strip light. It has 10 emmiters which I'm driving at 400mA, using this driver.
20170424_124443.jpg
It's very bright and runs cool, due to the large surface area.
 
rob_bell said:
@Nodge68 - I might try one of these (although again, a cool white light): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-38mm-...220276?hash=item567641f034:g:bcoAAOSwBLlVfG7O

Do you think these suitable? :)
Click to expand...

I used these https://m.ebay.co.uk/orderDetails?itemId=152240604586&txnId=1593553174005

They are a bit longer than the original festoon bulbs. This ment I had to "spring" the holder slightly to fit the longer lamp in. They are super bright though and I feel a good improvement on the standard bulbs. They are in cool white however, which isn't to all tastes.

LED replacements like these are generally more reliable than those that use simple dropping resistors to limit current. Resistance dropping is only any use if the supply voltage is a fixed constant. Obviously in a car, the supply voltage is quite variable. So as a rule, resistance dropped LEDs have a poor light output with the engine off and a short life with the engine running.
LEDs that use a dedicated driver are bright all the time regardless of supply voltage.
 
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