Alibro
Well-Known Member
I used footprints on the centre shaft last time to get them off the wishbone but it makes a real mess of the bush. How do you normally get them off Nodge?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
If the arm ball joint is going to fail an MOT then i replace the arm, cutting the pin through the bush tube. If the arm is salvageable, then I use more care.
I often find the bush has begun to separate from the centre tube. If that's the case, a lot of the work is done. I can often twist the bush off the pin. Once the rubber is out the way, I grind the bush tube off the pin with an angle grinder.
If the rubber is intact, I drill through the rubber section all the way round to bush tube, so it's weakened enough to twist of. I then grind the tube off the arm's pin.
Getting the bush out the housing can be tricky as the aluminium tends to corrode, trapping the bush. I find heating the housing to about 200°C to expand the aluminium really helps. I don't have access to a press at the moment. So I just use an old D3 brake disc to hold the housing, with another old disc bell side in and draw the bush into the space between, with a length of 12mm studding. It's crude but it's worked for me several times now. I then clean up the corrosion in the housing, lube with engine oil and then press the new bush into the housing using my large leg vise. It's a bit Heath Robinson but it does what I need and saves spending more cash on components that I can salvage.
I always use a generous coating of copper greas on the arm pin to prevent it sticking in the future. This makes subsequent arm replacement easyer.
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Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
I thought it was the ECU that got programmed to accept a new fob, this would mean that your original fob now won't work with the reprogrammed ECU. Or am I being thick.
Col
RossRobObey
Active Member
From what I've read pre facelift have the keys coded to the ECU but after 2003 it's not the case. However I'm new to the freelander scene, have only had it 2 weeks.
Either way, I had no original fob anyway, so it's not a drama for me.
Now you mention it, a message did pop up about old fobs being forgotten during the programming, however it gives you the ability to do multiples so would just need all the key fobs with you at the time.
Either way, I had no original fob anyway, so it's not a drama for me.
Now you mention it, a message did pop up about old fobs being forgotten during the programming, however it gives you the ability to do multiples so would just need all the key fobs with you at the time.
iamthenewno2
Member
Had the VCU replaced with a reconditioned unit, as my wife put it 'like a different car' but as it was having huge problems going smoothly around corners that didn't surprise me.
Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
Had my 2003 1.8 inspected by local 4x4 specialist, I've only had it a couple of weeks and wanted to know what it is like underneath. Not good news, very rusty brake pipes, anti roll bar link needs replacing, exhaust mounts rotted, ancillary belts need replacing, diff seal leaking and fuel cradle rotted out. Am awaiting the quote to put right, I'm thinking about £300-400 not counting new exhaust.
Col
Col
Alibro
Well-Known Member
It's a 14 year old car, they're all normal stuff for any car that age.
With the exception of the fuel cradle maybe, no excuse for that.
BTW if you don't know when the timing belt was last changed get it done along with the water pump and tensioner. Basic service items for a K series.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I'm in the middle of replacing my rear 05 SE's brake pipes due to corrosion. There's a bit where the solid pipe emerges from under the chassis rail to the flexy. And another bit of corrosion where the pipes are clipped to the bulkhead. I've decided to replace them now as it saves problems later. My fuel tank cradle is rusting quite happily, but is still solid at the moment. That'll be next year's pre MOT replacement, along with the front brake pipes.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
I've replaced the thin metal plates on three or four Freelanders now with ones cut from Alloy and shaped to suit. I might have only saved 70 or 80 quid but it all adds up.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Today I replaced the LH rear solid and flexy brake pipes. I'm yet to fully bleed the system as the nipples are locked solid. That's a job for tomorrow.
I also replaced the LR front arm lower bush and managed to snap the retaining thread.
So I'll need a new bloody arm now. I've order a pair as perfer change both sides of suspension components at a time. I'm a bit peed off with the thread snapping as the bush came off the arm without any fight at all.
The the bush came out of the housing easier than the RHS but unusually, separated from the plastic section first. The plastic section then fell out the bush housing The LH side did have a squeak, maybe this is why.
I'm not happy about spending out on new lower arms unnecessarily. At least the lower arm replacement will give me something to do just before I take it in for its MOT.
I also replaced the LR front arm lower bush and managed to snap the retaining thread.
. I've order a pair as perfer change both sides of suspension components at a time. I'm a bit peed off with the thread snapping as the bush came off the arm without any fight at all.The the bush came out of the housing easier than the RHS but unusually, separated from the plastic section first. The plastic section then fell out the bush housing
The LH side did have a squeak, maybe this is why. I'm not happy about spending out on new lower arms unnecessarily. At least the lower arm replacement will give me something to do just before I take it in for its MOT.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Your a butcher Nodge!Today I replaced the LH rear solid and flexy brake pipes. I'm yet to fully bleed the system as the nipples are locked solid. That's a job for tomorrow.
I also replaced the LR front arm lower bush and managed to snap the retaining thread.View attachment 131592 So I'll need a new bloody arm now
The the bush came out of the housing easier than the RHS but unusually, separated from the plastic section first. The plastic section then fell out the bush housing
I'm not happy about spending out on new lower arms unnecessarily. At least the lower arm replacement will give me something to do just before I take it in for its MOT.
Bad luck on the arm thread, it must have been over torqued by some ape in the past to snap like that. What make of arm are you going for? There seems to be a mahoosive choice from around £30 up to £130 or more.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Today I fitted a Renault 5 thermostat, repaired the front tweeter cover which was falling off, finished putting together my propshaft and fitted it so Blue is back to 4WD again.
Then I refitted the sump guard and the only side guard I have on the passenger side. I'll have to find a replacement drivers side guard from somewhere.
Then I refitted the sump guard and the only side guard I have on the passenger side. I'll have to find a replacement drivers side guard from somewhere.
Rich in Vancouver
Well-Known Member
I started reassembly on my KV6 today expecting to have the timing belts on in a jiffy. No such luck. My freshly sorted out left hand bank went together as it should have ,
but when I started on the front timing belt it became obvious that Mr. Big Hammer had got the right hand cam timing out by at least one tooth. He must have reused the
cam pulley bolts as the one for the right exhaust cam was on so tight it wouldn't break loose. I had to re-time the cams with one pulley in place and one loose rather than
setting them up on the bench which makes the task easy. It took ages as it was bloody awkward so now I am having a nightcap and will do the front belt in the morning.
Here's hoping he hasn't left me any more surprises!
but when I started on the front timing belt it became obvious that Mr. Big Hammer had got the right hand cam timing out by at least one tooth. He must have reused the
cam pulley bolts as the one for the right exhaust cam was on so tight it wouldn't break loose. I had to re-time the cams with one pulley in place and one loose rather than
setting them up on the bench which makes the task easy. It took ages as it was bloody awkward so now I am having a nightcap and will do the front belt in the morning.
Here's hoping he hasn't left me any more surprises!
Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
I had Bell engineering fit a new vcu and bearings. Great job done quickly, happy days, no more worrying about a vcu that may or may not quite yet be knackered. Just the air con compressor to think about now. Oh, and a few rusty things underneath.
Col
Col
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Your a butcher Nodge!
Bad luck on the arm thread, it must have been over torqued by some ape in the past to snap like that. What make of arm are you going for? There seems to be a mahoosive choice from around £30 up to £130 or more.
I'm not sure why the thread snapped Ali. I didn't put much release fluid on it before hitting it with the windy gun. The next thing I knew, the thread was broken
. Not had one break before, so I was a bit surprised.If it hadn't snapped, the bush change would have been a 20 minute job.
I didn't budget for spending out on arm for the MOT, this side of Christmas. So I've ordered a pair of Allmakes arms for now. They come with a 2 year warranty. If the ball joint fails after a couple of years, then I'll just change that. The bushes will outlast the car I would think.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Cam timing isn't as difficult as it appears. The rear cam pulleys are the datum to go by. Set them and lock the crank in the timing position. Once done, the front pulleys can moved to the correct place as the tensioner takes up the slack. The front pulleys are then locked with the tools, so the bolts can be torqued up. I my experience, the bolts may be reused, as 25Nm isn't enough to stretch them permanently.
Doing the belts with the engine in the car is a slow and awkward job. It takes 10 minutes with the engine on an engine stand!!
Good luck with the rebuild.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Today I completely failed to bleed the new rear brake pipes. The OS rear bleed nipple just about moved, so I could bleed if needed.
The NS rear bleed nipple is sold. I can't move it with anything.
So I've just ordered a pair of new wheel cylinders. I'm sure this Freelander is just trying pee me off. It's fighting me at every turn.
The NS rear bleed nipple is sold. I can't move it with anything.
So I've just ordered a pair of new wheel cylinders. I'm sure this Freelander is just trying pee me off. It's fighting me at every turn.
Rich in Vancouver
Well-Known Member
Exactly. I watched the MGR factory belt change video on YouTube. Their technician did it on the bench and made it look like a breeze. The engine he used had probably been apart 100 times. The exhaust cam caps came off with a light tug and mine took a hammer and a long screwdriver to remove. He also had a fellow in a stylish 90's jacket doing the commentary where I had to do my own!
My only problem with the cam timing was not being able to remove the pulley on the rear exhaust cam and having to get everything lined up properly at arm's length. It really helped having the gear spreader and the alignment jig. At least now I know the timing is dead on. The last guy obviously did it without the tools.
The access to the rear bank makes doing the rear belt on a VVC MGF seem simple!
My only problem with the cam timing was not being able to remove the pulley on the rear exhaust cam and having to get everything lined up properly at arm's length. It really helped having the gear spreader and the alignment jig. At least now I know the timing is dead on. The last guy obviously did it without the tools.
The access to the rear bank makes doing the rear belt on a VVC MGF seem simple!
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Alibro
Well-Known Member
If your wheel cylinder bolts round off like they usually do use a power file to grind the heads off. I tried everything else for over an hour including a dremel and two grinders before reaching for the right tool, the power file ground off the heads in seconds.
