Thanks Nodge- yes I tried to line it up and it's seated correctly but that pulley still has a slight eccentric wobble - better than it was though. Everything's now back in place and on the road.
 
htr said:
Thanks Nodge- yes I tried to line it up and it's seated correctly but that pulley still has a slight eccentric wobble - better than it was though. Everything's now back in place and on the road.
Click to expand...

It's possible that the rubber in the damper is beginning to fail. That can happen to the K series, but not as often as the TD4.
 
Well just thought I would say , took off manafold cleaned all the grunge out , removed egr it's was rotten inside ,
Replaced it with blank off from auction site , stainless steel and good fit . Then the dreaded glow plugs , replaced all 4 and tested the old ones on the battery when removed and only 1 heated ,, also tested all new ones before fitting glad to get that over , rebuilt tonight
hope she will run a bit fresher now and is nearly ready for winter , just rear diff fluid to change .
Lucky with the glow plugs or what .
 
The wife's Freelander:
Put a new modified filter in the crankcase breather. Fitted a new turbo vent filter. Pre-MOT checks. Got it MoT'd. Result!
 
After a seven year absence from Land Rover, I bought myself a Freelander today.
53 plate TD4 ES. Big miles, don't care. Runs sweet, is still tidy and I spent most of the afternoon with a big grin and loving it.
Tomorrow, I suss out BMW cyclone filters and the passenger front window regulator.
It's good to be back.
:)
 
Was yesterday evening actually. I changed the trany fluid for the second time in 1000 miles. I also replaced the drop links and ARB bushes for genuine replacements as the cheap rubber bushes creaked.
 
Just drove mine over some nice gentle green lanes around and over Salisbury plain with the family. Now need to wash off all the mud ("Designer Splash"? lol)
 
Today I put 2 tubes of Dr Tranny's Shudder Fixx into my Jatco auto to see if the TC shudder is fixed. I'll update in the coming weeks and months.
 
Rich in Vancouver said:
You are a brave man Nodge!
Click to expand...

Why so? I've used it to good effect a few times in ZF and GM transmissions.

The drive to work was a lovely smooth one, without a hint of shudder. So hopefully that's the problem cured for the time being. The trany changed gear smother than it ever has. So hopefully, with 2 fluid changes and 2 tubes of Shudder Fix, I can breathe easy for a bit. :)
 
Interesting. The way it is stressed to only use specific fluids in the Jatco box you would think you are taking chances squirting aftermarket goo in your gearbox.
I`ve never seen Shudder fix over here. I don`t need it but I will keep an eye out for it at the auto parts store for that day I do.
 
Rich in Vancouver said:
Interesting. The way it is stressed to only use specific fluids in the Jatco box you would think you are taking chances squirting aftermarket goo in your gearbox.
I`ve never seen Shudder fix over here. I don`t need it but I will keep an eye out for it at the auto parts store for that day I do.
Click to expand...

The Jatco box is considered to be a "special" or "black magic" gearbox. I'm in reality it's just a gearbox that contains the same components as other run of the mill auto gearboxes.
The box fluid that was specified when new is now considered old technology by comparison to that used in modern swift shifting autos. The fluid for the Jatco is basically a mineral DII fluid, with a few anti-oxidation additives to help maintain service life. So this means any modern Dexron (red) fluid will work perfectly well. I use Carlube ATF-U which is a top spec compatible fluid for the original Texaco 402 fluid.

I think I was responsible for damaging my auto myself. I left the fluid change for too long and overloaded the box with too much torque from the engine (Synergy on setting 10) while towing 1500Kg of aggregate up a 1 in 8 gradient, flat out in 4th. The TC locked as the revs climbed to max, resulting in lots of torque at the time of engagement, triggering TC shudder. The TC then shuddered every time it locked in after that. Two fluid changes didn't help the shudder either. So as a last resort, I added the Shdder Fixx. So far it's done the trick. The shudder has gone and the box now changes as smooth as silk.
So for the moment, I'm happy.
 
Last edited:
The Lucas oil stop slip I used has done no lasting damage to my autobox one year on, so stop shudder should be ok.
On another note.
Front wheels off, brakes cleaned, all front suspension points cleaned, oiled, and greased to help when I get the money to replace them.
Doesn't squeak and groan now! But it's a short term fix.
Mike
 
After cleaning the brakes up this morning, I can report they work really well.
Got to the bottom of our road and pushed the brakes and it stopped, immediately. Quite a shock really, especially for the dog who was sat on the back seat, fortunately with her harness on. She went, back seat, front seat, back seat in about 3 seconds with a twoiiiinng sound :)
Mike
 
How this thing happens ? Is a crack in roof rails.
P_20170827_162624.jpg
P_20170827_162604.jpg
 
The wife's Freelander:
Engine oil change.
Changed all the vacuum hoses for bright yellow silicone rubber ones which has fixed both the brakes and sluggish performance. Didn't bother refitting the ones to the EGR valve/solenoid and instead blanked off that particular branch.
 
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