Skinny Mike
Well-Known Member
I'm sure you must have some form of electric hybrid assistance in your motor somewhere
Given how diesel works out more expensive than petrol, I wouldn't mind betting you have the cheapest to run Freelander ever to hit the streets!
What @htr failed to say, it was down hill all the way. Coming back he got 15mpg
Mike
mine's the same age .. along with the pierburg maf
100k miles ..
no issues with either ..
( have used oiled air-filters as well .. K&N 'n Pipercross ..
( i alternate between the standard filter .. foam surround removed ..
( and the Pipercross one .. aprox every 6 months
( as when they get dirty .. initial response to the go-pedal drops slightly
( i.e. before the manifold air pressure has a chance to build up ..
"hardly earth shattering" ? .. well it won't be .. it's a diesel
slow reving compared to a petrol job ..
however .. its' advantage be 'torque'
get the power/torque to respond as strongly as possible from low rpm
then change up gears quicker .. ..
do the 'insulated' air-intake mod ..
'n add the turbo controller 'dgb1' ..
you won't be sorry
both add to go-pedal response from low rpm
( the 'dgb1' set to "L" shows it's advantage on hilly twisting 'b' roads .. for example )
and if the intake mod is insulated ( including the a.i.t. sensor housing )
then .. no problems with heat soak from the engine bay
( which causes initial sluggish response after heat has built up in the bay
( until the air-flow thru the intercooler takes proper cooling effect ..
( noticeable after being parked up in a lay-by .. then 'getting-away back into traffic
( obviously more apparent in summer months ..
( 'cause the higher air intake temp will cause the 'allowable' fuel injection quantity to be reduced
also .. if your using a pierburg maf ..
you can try the bosch-maf settings on the ronbox ..
but .. as it gives a slightly weaker signal at low rpm
you might notice a tad less initial response from the engine
ron-box setting "10" has the strongest maf map
the other 4 of the pierburg selections are slightly less
( i.e. unless the ron-box has been modified )
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Tony Reeves
Well-Known Member
I'm sure you must have some form of electric hybrid assistance in your motor somewhere
Given how diesel works out more expensive than petrol, I wouldn't mind betting you have the cheapest to run Freelander ever to hit the streets!
Not having to carry a large lump of cast iron around helps.
The K1.8 is a great engine, light and quite efficient as well as being good to work on. Just a pity it did not have more torque.
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Alibro
Well-Known Member
Don't get me wrong, the Ronbox has made a big difference and the car is going well now. so I'm happy with it.mine's the same age .. along with the pierburg maf
100k miles ..
no issues with either ..
( have used oiled air-filters as well .. K&N 'n Pipercross ..
( i alternate between the standard filter .. foam surround removed ..
( and the Pipercross one .. aprox every 6 months
( as when they get dirty .. initial response to the go-pedal drops slightly
( i.e. before the manifold air pressure has a chance to build up ..
"hardly earth shattering" ? .. well it won't be .. it's a diesel
slow reving compared to a petrol job ..
however .. its' advantage be 'torque'
get the power/torque to respond as strongly as possible from low rpm
then change up gears quicker .. ..
do the 'insulated' air-intake mod ..
'n add the turbo controller 'dgb1' ..
you won't be sorry
both add to go-pedal response from low rpm
( the 'dgb1' set to "L" shows it's advantage on hilly twisting 'b' roads .. for example )
and if the intake mod is insulated ( including the a.i.t. sensor housing )
then .. no problems with heat soak from the engine bay
( which causes initial sluggish response after heat has built up in the bay
( until the air-flow thru the intercooler takes proper cooling effect ..
( noticeable after being parked up in a lay-by .. then 'getting-away back into traffic
( obviously more apparent in summer months ..
( 'cause the higher air intake temp will cause the 'allowable' fuel injection quantity to be reduced
also .. if your using a pierburg maf ..
you can try the bosch-maf settings on the ronbox ..
but .. as it gives a slightly weaker signal at low rpm
you might notice a tad less initial response from the engine
ron-box setting "10" has the strongest maf map
the other 4 of the pierburg selections are slightly less
( i.e. unless the ron-box has been modified )
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Bolt a turbo on it.
Tony Reeves
Well-Known Member
Bolt a turbo on it.
That would work, with fatter through bolts and a steel ladder on both ends of them.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
That would work, with fatter through bolts and a steel ladder on both ends of them.
The K series will take a turbo quite happily. It just needs to be correctly implemented for it to work correctly. Rover did it with the 1.8 turbo 75. It made a smooth 150 Bhp with a nice flat torque curve. Disco Mikey made a 1.8 FL1 turbo which goes like a scalded cat!!
Tony Reeves
Well-Known Member
Stock MG 1.8 VVC is good for 160BHP with a nice torque curve. Good turbo install on a 1800cc engine should be good for something over 220BHP.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Oh yes. The Rover developed K turbo was very restricted in output at just 158Bhp. Yes
200 Bhp is easy to achieve and more is available with more work to the bottom end.
The VVC has a nice torque curve, but the turbo is at a different level altogether. The 1.8 K turbo makes more torque at 2000 Rpm than the 2.5 V6 makes at 4000 Rpm.
So turbo is the way to go, if torque is what you are after.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
In preparation for the weekend trip to Kaikoura with a local Facebook Landie lot, been giving the Freelander some TLC - shame it didn't show any back!
Gave the old girl a service - oil and filters - oil and air only, I've never replaced any others, might look into that at some time. However, what should be a 20 minute job, turned into the normal fight with the under tray and turned into a 1 1/2 hour job. I love my Freelander - but absolutely hate that under tray! Other than the tray, no great suprises - the oil filter needed a screw driver through it, I dab some oil on the seal each time, but it still sticks. The engine is caked in oil, but it doesn't use any - so it must be coming from somewhere else. I wanted to top up the gearbox, but ran out of time - and inclination after the fight with the under tray.
I also 'wired in' my new CB radio. I say wired in, I was prepared to just use the cigar lighter cable for this trip, however, the cigar lighter doesn't work and the rear accessory socket has a twin USB adaptor for phone and e-Cig. So tried to fix the cigar lighter.
Fuse looked OK, but swapped it with the parts car's one, still didn't work. So it was either the wiring or the lighter itself. So swap the cigar lighter from the parts car. Yeh, sounds easy, practice is a nightmare. Rave says to remove the whole console so you can get to the back of the lighter to remove the wires, light and "release clips" so the lighter can be removed.
So - having never removed the console, test on parts car to remove the lighter. Various bits have to come off, including the radio and the radio 'cage' to get to the console's top screws. To remove the cage it says "release tags" - these are metal tabs that are bent down behind the console - how you're supposed to do it, I haven't the foggiest. I manage to get 1 bent up and in trying to get another, I slipped and sliced my finger open on it! So my anger was taken out on the cage which was removed with anger as a crumpled mess and tossed away.
Then to remove cigar lighter from console. Step 1 is "Remove bulb holder from lighter." - how? No instruction and no obvious method, so after lots of head scratching, it was "persuaded off" - I'm not sure if that's the right way, didn't appear to break anything. Then step 2 is "Release clips and remove lighter from console." - well no way were the clips going to be pushed in enough to get the lighter out - just wouldn't go in enough. In the end they were snapped off.
So having the experience of the radio cage and the lighter itself - I wasn't going to disturb the daily drive like that. I thought I'd check the lighter first. Pulling the gaiter up on the gear stick, I could just about get a hand under to reach the back of the lighter and pull the cable off. I then plugged the parts car's lighter into it leaving it laying on the 'transmission tunnel' and plugged a charger into it - light came on - so it was the lighter that was broke - looking at Rave electrical diagram, the lighter has an inbuilt 5A fuse which must have gone.
So, what I have done is to plug my CB's power cable into the cigar lighter resting on the transmission tunnel and wrapped it in bubble wrap so that it doesn't short on anything. I've then run the wire out through the gear stick aperture and refitted the gaiter - so the wire comes out at the gaiter.
Hopefully it will all be good for the weekend.
Gave the old girl a service - oil and filters - oil and air only, I've never replaced any others, might look into that at some time. However, what should be a 20 minute job, turned into the normal fight with the under tray and turned into a 1 1/2 hour job. I love my Freelander - but absolutely hate that under tray! Other than the tray, no great suprises - the oil filter needed a screw driver through it, I dab some oil on the seal each time, but it still sticks. The engine is caked in oil, but it doesn't use any - so it must be coming from somewhere else. I wanted to top up the gearbox, but ran out of time - and inclination after the fight with the under tray.
I also 'wired in' my new CB radio. I say wired in, I was prepared to just use the cigar lighter cable for this trip, however, the cigar lighter doesn't work and the rear accessory socket has a twin USB adaptor for phone and e-Cig. So tried to fix the cigar lighter.
Fuse looked OK, but swapped it with the parts car's one, still didn't work. So it was either the wiring or the lighter itself. So swap the cigar lighter from the parts car. Yeh, sounds easy, practice is a nightmare. Rave says to remove the whole console so you can get to the back of the lighter to remove the wires, light and "release clips" so the lighter can be removed.
So - having never removed the console, test on parts car to remove the lighter. Various bits have to come off, including the radio and the radio 'cage' to get to the console's top screws. To remove the cage it says "release tags" - these are metal tabs that are bent down behind the console - how you're supposed to do it, I haven't the foggiest. I manage to get 1 bent up and in trying to get another, I slipped and sliced my finger open on it! So my anger was taken out on the cage which was removed with anger as a crumpled mess and tossed away.
Then to remove cigar lighter from console. Step 1 is "Remove bulb holder from lighter." - how? No instruction and no obvious method, so after lots of head scratching, it was "persuaded off" - I'm not sure if that's the right way, didn't appear to break anything. Then step 2 is "Release clips and remove lighter from console." - well no way were the clips going to be pushed in enough to get the lighter out - just wouldn't go in enough. In the end they were snapped off.
So having the experience of the radio cage and the lighter itself - I wasn't going to disturb the daily drive like that. I thought I'd check the lighter first. Pulling the gaiter up on the gear stick, I could just about get a hand under to reach the back of the lighter and pull the cable off. I then plugged the parts car's lighter into it leaving it laying on the 'transmission tunnel' and plugged a charger into it - light came on - so it was the lighter that was broke - looking at Rave electrical diagram, the lighter has an inbuilt 5A fuse which must have gone.
So, what I have done is to plug my CB's power cable into the cigar lighter resting on the transmission tunnel and wrapped it in bubble wrap so that it doesn't short on anything. I've then run the wire out through the gear stick aperture and refitted the gaiter - so the wire comes out at the gaiter.
Hopefully it will all be good for the weekend.
Dartmoor Navigator
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a top fix
.... yer bleddy bodge-merchant now yer knows why I wanted a 20A outlet on the passenger side. When I has done it I'll tell yer what I did.
Tony Reeves
Well-Known Member
You certainly have a talent for turning a minor job into a major issue, have you a trade background?
I have a good tow strop in the back of the Forester, apart from the 10 YO's birthday party Sat afternoon I will be standing by for recovery work.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
I did some research over the last couple of days...Sounds like a top fix
Fuse 10 20A Ignition : Cigar Lighter
Fuse 13 25A Ignition + Relay : Accessory Socket
Fuse 11 10A Ingition : Radio Cassette
Fuse 14 10A Permanent : Interior lamps, anti-theft alarm, diagnostic socket supply, radio cassette
The clock is synonymous with "radio cassette" - so be careful taking the F14 permanent power from it because it also powers the alarm and the diag port - you don't want to screw then up!
The best option is to take a feed from the accessory socket and run the wire back under the consoles to the dash and from there, where ever you want it to go.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Shall send out an "LZ International Rescue" SOS. Which will be pretty pointless 'cos I think I'm the only one signed up in NZ - was last time I looked.You certainly have a talent for turning a minor job into a major issue, have you a trade background?
I have a good tow strop in the back of the Forester, apart from the 10 YO's birthday party Sat afternoon I will be standing by for recovery work.
Dartmoor Navigator
Well-Known Member
Nah, fukkit, I'm drilling through the bulkhead ::::::::::::::>
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
That's an impressive toolNah, fukkit, I'm drilling through the bulkhead ::::::::::::::>
Dartmoor Navigator
Well-Known Member
That's an impressive tool
Yes, I normally put it in box.
htr
Well-Known Member
LOL - it's sooo much safer / easier in the virtual world eh GG?
