A quick question to those with silicone intercooler hoses... is it normal for them have residue form on the outer surfaces after some use?
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i think some silicone hose will weep oil ..
the film of oil inside the intercooler system comes from the turbo ..
evidently a small amount of oil in there is considered normal

there is a type of silicone hose that resists oil ..
but haven't see that type in intercooler hose kits

Fluoro Silicone Hoses Explained :
http://www.viperperformance.co.uk/plainpage.php?pgId=56

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from: .. http://www.approvedturbo.com/wp-content/uploads/ATC-Oil-Leak-Troubleshooting.pdf
SEALS:
" The main purpose of the seals at both the compressor and turbine ends of the center housing is to prevent the high pressure gasses from entering the center housing and then to the crankcase! The fact that that the seals prevent oil from entering the housings is secondary. "
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Also, does the intercooler generally get as full as much crud as the inlet manifold on a non-blanked EGR set up?
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i doubt it .. as the cause of crud in the manifold is from the egr valve exhaust inlet
the heat bakes that oil from the turbo onto the inside of the manifold
so .. no egr valve .. no buildup of that crud as with the egr valve fitted ..
( i.e. the intercooler being before the egr valve in the air-flow direction )

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Thanks for the reply HD3. Interesting links.

Looking again, the coating I'm seeing on my DPH silicone hoses, I think, is just the where the road spray comes into the engine bay and settles, but doesn't evaporate / get absorbed like on the other surrounding surfaces. It seems to be pretty uniform across the whole hose, and each side of the SS clips, (and on all three hoses).

I just took it on a few hundred mile round trip again this weekend, but the roads were awful with spray, so it's back again. So need to wait for some dry weather and long trip combo to see if it appears.

Thanks for the advice re the intercooler. - one less job!

Happy to say that at my destination this weekend, which was a muddy festival field, the Freelander coped wonderfully getting into some nice deep mud! - Something quite satisfying about seeing 'normal' cars struggle, while the often derided hippo takes it in its stride :) The recon VCU from Bell was working perfectly at getting me through the deep slop!

Jim
 
I think, is just the where the road spray comes into the engine bay and settles, but doesn't evaporate / get absorbed like on the other surrounding surfaces
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i've got DPH hoses .. 'n the intercooler hoses are always smeared with sweating oil from them
usually closer to the clip joins .. that oil mixes with road crud that gets thru the front grill area.
cleaning them makes no difference as they're messy by the end of the next day

those intercooler hose have internal pressures of up to 30psi or so
( 16 / 18 psi aprox. cruising along the flat .. 28 / 32 psi potential under heavy go-pedal )
so any oily film inside gets squeezed against the hose walls ..
and part makes its' way thru the walls appearing like sweat on the outside ..

at least .. .. that's my theory :)

( edited to add ) ..
the turbo-to-intercooler hose on mine is still the original one ..
( so not silicone )
and that one is externally relatively clean of any oily substance ..
or crud buildup ..

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Slashed and cut and beat the Bejesus out of the chassis rail to try and make room for the steering arm after fitting a 50mm lift kit. :eek:
I'm trying to leave it so that I can weld up the cuts and maybe even weld another piece onto it but it's fighting me every step. :(
And that's just the first side. :confused:
 
Replaced all 3 diff mounts using only hand tools and a jack and axle stand took 4 hours and won't be doing it myself again will pay next time, or at least I'll steam clean the underside off so I don't get bits of dust in my eye next time!

Scrubbed down rear sills by the arches and applied liberal amounts of wax oil

stripped and cleaned front brakes assembled with grease on right bits and all working, pads have got about 1000 miles left in them ish so will budget for that next month as I do 425 miles a week commute lol

oh and I got it muddy, near me is the old roman road, not sure if it's a proper green lane but as it goes right through my Girlfriend's granddad's farm land I don't think I'll have any bother :D

Here she is covered in Cow**** :D

IMG_0318.JPG
 
Thanks HD3, sounds a valid theory as to what happens. And at least I know now that the oily 'sweat' is not abnormal. Jim.
 
LUKBENPHI said:
Replaced all 3 diff mounts using only hand tools and a jack and axle stand took 4 hours and won't be doing it myself again will pay next time, or at least I'll steam clean the underside off so I don't get bits of dust in my eye next time!
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When I did mine and put the propshaft/VCU back on earlier in the year, the same happened to me. Covered in dust and bits of debris. The next day I felt like I had been down the gym lifting weights. - which when I thought about it was not far off the truth, struggling with that prop. It's great fun trying to figure out what angle gives you the best chance of the mounts sliding back into hold the diff. - At least with doing all three, that should be the job done now for a while, so you won't have to look at it again!

Jim
 
4Bee4Bee said:
When I did mine and put the propshaft/VCU back on earlier in the year, the same happened to me. Covered in dust and bits of debris. The next day I felt like I had been down the gym lifting weights. - which when I thought about it was not far off the truth, struggling with that prop. It's great fun trying to figure out what angle gives you the best chance of the mounts sliding back into hold the diff. - At least with doing all three, that should be the job done now for a while, so you won't have to look at it again!

Jim
Click to expand...

Didn't remove prop, just slacked the 4 13mm bolts on the rear brackets first so I had half inch of thread showing and using a pry bar I was able to lift the diff slightly so I could slide the front bush in and out, then I did the rear bushes but still a pig of a job with just a standard trolley jack to lift the car up enough to access things, next time if I have to do it I'll create some Hippo ramps out of wood so the whole lot is off the floor a bit more

Half the issue was the fact that after the house move my tool box is still at the mrs's dad's garage so I've had to carefully select the tools I needed but I was still missing some bits as I've lost the main set of keys which unlock the roll cab so I had to make do with more basic stuff to do the job
 
Was yesterday evening actually.
Finally fitted my DIY SS back box. It sounds good, doesn't rattle on the boot floor and comes onto boost earlier too.
I've some improvements to the fitting, but overall I'm pleased with the results.
20160830_083324.jpg
20160830_083236.jpg
 
Even with the prop fully removed (which I had to as I was replacing the VCU, it was still an awkward job.

I've been tempted by making some hippo ramps, but in the end cheated and bought some wide ramps from Amazon last month as I needed the access to get the breaker bar on the IRD fill nut. Having the extra space underneath the vehicle does make a huge difference over just relying on the axel stands.
 
4Bee4Bee said:
Even with the prop fully removed (which I had to as I was replacing the VCU, it was still an awkward job.

I've been tempted by making some hippo ramps, but in the end cheated and bought some wide ramps from Amazon last month as I needed the access to get the breaker bar on the IRD fill nut. Having the extra space underneath the vehicle does make a huge difference over just relying on the axel stands.
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My recommendation for ANY VCU or similar job is to find a local mechanic with a ramp / 4 poster unit - go along and ask him to do exactly what you say - or - hire the bay for an hour !.. it is far far easier - lunch times are great and usually 10 or 20 quid max - sometimes the price of a few beers.
Just tell him you know what you want to do, you have all the tools but need the car in the air. Job sorted. 90% of small garages will be happy to oblige.
Too many folks crawling on their back trying to do a job that takes 20 mins on a lift. - lifts are everywhere - use them ! - a few quid gets you the use.

Joe;)
 
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Joe_H said:
My recommendation for ANY VCU or similar job is to find a local mechanic with a ramp / 4 poster unit - go along and ask him to do exactly what you say - or - hire the bat for an hour !.. it is far far easier - lunch times are great and usually 10 or 20 quid max - sometimes the price of a few beers.
Just tell him you know what you want to do, you have all the tools but need the car in the air. Job sorted. 90% of small garages will be happy to oblige.
Too many folks crawling on their back trying to do a job that takes 20 mins on a lift. - lifts are everywhere - use them ! - a few quid gets you the use.

Joe;)
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Agreed.
Although I don't work in the automotive industry any more, I do have access to a 2 poster if I need to. As long as it's in normal working hours.
It makes most jobs so much more pleasant then crawling around on your back.
 
Been a big summer for work on my 04 hippo. Just rolled over to 100,000kms and I've replaced my timing belts, serpent belt, water pump and hosing, re welded the bracket and connection of my exhaust to my resonator. Replaced all 4 tires and upgraded to a full size spare. The new tires are Toyo AT super thick ply with side tred. great for offroading. Installed my own jerry rigged roof rack system using an old kitchen cabinet rack, some epoxy, foam padding, u bolts, and tie downs. had to replace a few fuses and repaired my heated seats and AC system. Replaced my millionth window regulator. And after trying to navigate a replacement for some CV Hosing (recall on models up to November 03) finally found the right part and made that happen. Add in some new filters, an oil change and a break fluid flush and I think my summer projects have come to an end.
 
Tonight I replaced my tired Bosch MAF with a bargain basement £25 unbranded item from Ebay. It's a definite improvement on the 10 year old Bosch unit. I did manage to loose one of the screws for it though :(
 
Had annoying little TC light occasionally flicker. After a quick search on the forum I have replaced the Stop Light Switch and given the FL a testrun around the block. Cross fingers no TC flickering. Used LR original parts from Rimmer Brothers xkb100170.
 
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