Changed out the boost solenoid as part of my quest to get better pick-up power. Still not perfect, but doesn't crawl to 2500 then take off now, just gentle acceleration below 2000rpm. Already done the rail pressure sensor harness and cleaned the pressure sensor contacts, so time to do some injector testing next.

Also threw away the bloody awful ebay special "blue" headlamp bulbs the previous owner had fitted and put in Osram Nightbreakers. Much better beam pattern - the old ones had people flashing me left right and centre because the filament placement was so poor.
 
Today I have been mainly changing over to winter tyres. Off with the 18s on with the 15s.
Taken off vcu in preparation to send it to bell.
And ordered a pair of osram night breakers unlimited.👍
 
well i tried yesterday and failed TWICE to change my front pads. !!!

first time............id brought the wrong ones...that would serve me right for not checking inside the box.
2nd time.....i got the old pads out realy easily....thinking to myself, this is the first time ive worked on a freelander..............easy as anything.....
then i couldnt get the bloody piston back in.
I tried many different levarges in every different way i could think off, i even tried the method with un doing the bleed nipple and it still wouldnt go back far enough.
Am i right in thinking they should just push back and not wind back?
And i did and always do remove the top up cap.
The brakes work fine, they dont pull, get over hot or anything so i assume the calipers work ok and not sticking.
Next try will be with an assisatant, maybe pushing the brakes carefully to push piston out, then i push back and so on till it gives enough room to fit new pads.
 
colinco said:
Am i right in thinking they should just push back and not wind back?.
Click to expand...

They should just push back - I started mine off by carefully easing a strong screwdriver between the disc and the pads (I was also renewing the discs so the risk of damaging the old one's didn't matter) and they gently pushed back in fine. Try and lever them back as "squarely" and slowly as possible.
Make sure you keep an eye on the reservoir as obviously the level will rise if you are not going to use a tube off the opened nipple.
Good luck.
 
colinco said:
well i tried yesterday and failed TWICE to change my front pads. !!!

first time............id brought the wrong ones...that would serve me right for not checking inside the box.
2nd time.....i got the old pads out realy easily....thinking to myself, this is the first time ive worked on a freelander..............easy as anything.....
then i couldnt get the bloody piston back in.
I tried many different levarges in every different way i could think off, i even tried the method with un doing the bleed nipple and it still wouldnt go back far enough.
Am i right in thinking they should just push back and not wind back?
And i did and always do remove the top up cap.
The brakes work fine, they dont pull, get over hot or anything so i assume the calipers work ok and not sticking.
Next try will be with an assisatant, maybe pushing the brakes carefully to push piston out, then i push back and so on till it gives enough room to fit new pads.
Click to expand...


G clamp and take the cap of the brake fluid reservoir...
 
Always, always open the bleed nipple.
Its not worth the risk of possible damage by forcing fluid back through the ABS module and master cylinder seals.
Plus it prevents overflowing at the master cylinder.
Plus its good to move the bleed nipples every now and then to prevent them seizing.
 
Cap was removed, and i did try the bleed nipple tactic too.
Even leavered against the old pad and the discs.
G clamp will be the next try.
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
 
colinco said:
well i tried yesterday and failed TWICE to change my front pads. !!!

first time............id brought the wrong ones...that would serve me right for not checking inside the box.
2nd time.....i got the old pads out realy easily....thinking to myself, this is the first time ive worked on a freelander..............easy as anything.....
then i couldnt get the bloody piston back in.
I tried many different levarges in every different way i could think off, i even tried the method with un doing the bleed nipple and it still wouldnt go back far enough.
Am i right in thinking they should just push back and not wind back?
And i did and always do remove the top up cap.
The brakes work fine, they dont pull, get over hot or anything so i assume the calipers work ok and not sticking.
Next try will be with an assisatant, maybe pushing the brakes carefully to push piston out, then i push back and so on till it gives enough room to fit new pads.
Click to expand...

Sounds to me like the piston has corroded which is why you're having trouble pushing it back. I had this on the in-laws car recently and it resulted in new calipers.

Consider this: if it takes an awful lot of effort to wind the piston in due to corrosion then it's going to take a fair bit to push it out too. Your brakes may be somewhat inefficient as a result!

I'm about to dismantle mine as I need new front brake pads and disks. I've got new pistons, seals, etc to go in th calipers as I'm refurbing them myself.
 
Ok, so maybe I didn't do all this today but I did it all in the last week so I'm counting it;)

1. Pulled the head & found it had been skimmed beyond tolerance so had to throw it away - but I found a brand new head for just £310 from a landy place in Norfolk.
2. Fitted a new uprated oil rail
3. Fitted a new coolant rail
4. Fitted the new head, new water pump, timing belt & thermo

It all went back together & started - running sweet as a nut. Then after 5 mile test run the next time I started it up I got the engine warning light (MIL light). Scanned it & got P0170. I couldn't find any vacuum leaks so I pulled the exhaust manifold O2 sensor - tested it & found it was dead. Fitted the new sensor & the MIL light went out - scanned & found no more error codes :D

Cheers
Simon
 
Last edited:
Took her for a LPG service .
the monkey said the timing belt tensioner was making nasty noises :(
Bought a new one /fitted new one guess what..... still making nasty noise
I THINK ITS THE WATER PUMP.
looks like I'm out underneath her again tomorrow
AT least I know where all the bolts are
 
QBDoctor said:
Ok, so maybe I didn't do all this today but I did it all in the last week so I'm counting it;)

1. Pulled the head & found it had been skimmed beyond tolerance so had to throw it away - but I found a brand new head for just £310 from a landy place in Norfolk.
2. Fitted a new uprated oil rail
3. Fitted a new coolant rail
4. Fitted the new head, new water pump, timing belt & thermo

It all went back together & started - running sweet as a nut. Then after 5 mile test run the next time I started it up I got the engine warning light (MIL light). Scanned it & got P0170. I couldn't find any vacuum leaks so I pulled the exhaust manifold O2 sensor - tested it & found it was dead. Fitted the new sensor & the MIL light went out - scanned & found no more error codes :D

Cheers
Simon
Click to expand...
Was a head saver shim not an option? You can use them with the elastopolymer gaskets.
 
htr said:
Was a head saver shim not an option? You can use them with the elastopolymer gaskets.
Click to expand...

it just seemed to me that since a new head was only £310 it was worth just replacing the head - I was never going to have peace of mind with the old head re-installed & would have worried every time I drove it that I would get HGF. Maybe I will get some pics of the old head & post them

Cheers
Simon
 
Last edited:
Thought about buying it. V6 with a misfire but excellent price.
 

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