Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Is that an ABS ring?
Rest looks standard
It is .... it's held on with 5 wee studs and 10mm nylocs. FTC1379
I always wondered what the wee holes were for of the brake disk ...
No good for me on my 1994 300tdi, I think the axle is a replacement (Disco ?) by the PO/renovator.
Anyone need a spare or two ?
www.lrparts.net
I always wondered what the wee holes were for of the brake disk ...
No good for me on my 1994 300tdi, I think the axle is a replacement (Disco ?) by the PO/renovator.
Anyone need a spare or two ?
FTC1379 - RING - BRAKE | LR Parts
Blimey they're not cheap.It is .... it's held on with 5 wee studs and 10mm nylocs. FTC1379
I always wondered what the wee holes were for of the brake disk ...
No good for me on my 1994 300tdi, I think the axle is a replacement (Disco ?) by the PO/renovator.
Anyone need a spare or two ?
FTC1379 - RING - BRAKE | LR Parts
Got the 90 back from the MoT. It passed but has a couple of advisories. A rear shock is misting slightly, a rear wheel bearing has slight play, the fuel lift pump is showing signs of weeping and the bulkhead outriggers will need welding. It’s got me thinking of a galvy chassis…
I've just taken my nearside hub off hoping to repack the bearings rather than renew as I did with the other side due to oil getting into the bearings from the axle... Yeah I don't think I'll be repacking with races like this... I guess that's more work for me later on now, a very familiar story with Landys and jobs escalating.
Cheap enough, so no big deal.
You're right though, jobs always get bigger than you think.
Yeah I have another kit so not a huge deal, I just planned to be lazy as I don't have that much time before I head off on friday.
I think they're from the rollers, the inner race has marks too but not as bad, and they're only on one side of the races. Possibly something to do with sitting for a while or being jacked up with a lot of force to that side? That's what im thinking as I know this Landy had been off the road for 20+ years, I believe it did move periodically but not from the guys driveway.
Time for new bearings then ... Timkin and a Coteco seal, new tab washer and new gaskets ...
When im done with this that'll be both fronts done with new Timken bearings! I think the rears seemed ok last time I checked so hopefully they're good for a bit longer at least.
The front axle breather was blocked so I think that's at least contributed to the situation, although at least oil getting into the bearings isn't the worst thing in the world as it'll still give some lubrication, but clearly still causes issues over time.
We had something similar to that bearing wear once, on our old Series Forward Control. The rollers had 'peeled' themselves. I think they'd been case hardened to provide a more durable wearing surface, but over the life of the bearing, the fact that you'd effectively got rollers made of two different metal compositions with different characteristics - how they respond to stress, how they deform, how elastic they are - meant that the hard outer layer had flaked off. So bits of hard material had embedded themselves in the outer races. Never mind, new ones are quickly knocked in!
My clutch pedal started feeling spongy yesterday, and the bite point got nearer to the bottom of the pedal travel. Hmm. Not another gearbox out job I hope. On unscrewing the cap the problem became apparent:
Not much fluid. I topped it up and bled a bit through with a pressure bleeder and it's feeling much better.
I suppose the question arises as to where it has all gone. I can't see any obvious leaks. I don't think I've topped it up since I put a reconditioned gearbox and new clutch in in February 2021. Maybe it's just accommodating clutch wear. I had the same problem back in 2014, which was cured with a top up and that was fine for another four years, 'til I changed the clutch and hydraulics. So I hope I've got away with an easy fix this time too.
About three weeks ago I changed the suspension bushes and ball joint on the back axle. I've still been getting a clunk on drive take-up. The pin on the ball joint wouldn't align with the hole in the axle when I was reassembling things. Eventually I managed to get it in far enough to get the nut on a couple of turns and wound it all together as tight as I could. However, on checking it today, the nut could be tightened up further. just shows what the stresses of driving around can do. It's as tight as it'll go once again, so we'll see if that's quieter. It's not been loose long enough to wear the pin or take the hole out of round appreciably, so it should be fine.
Not much fluid. I topped it up and bled a bit through with a pressure bleeder and it's feeling much better.
I suppose the question arises as to where it has all gone. I can't see any obvious leaks. I don't think I've topped it up since I put a reconditioned gearbox and new clutch in in February 2021. Maybe it's just accommodating clutch wear. I had the same problem back in 2014, which was cured with a top up and that was fine for another four years, 'til I changed the clutch and hydraulics. So I hope I've got away with an easy fix this time too.
About three weeks ago I changed the suspension bushes and ball joint on the back axle. I've still been getting a clunk on drive take-up. The pin on the ball joint wouldn't align with the hole in the axle when I was reassembling things. Eventually I managed to get it in far enough to get the nut on a couple of turns and wound it all together as tight as I could. However, on checking it today, the nut could be tightened up further. just shows what the stresses of driving around can do. It's as tight as it'll go once again, so we'll see if that's quieter. It's not been loose long enough to wear the pin or take the hole out of round appreciably, so it should be fine.
