retneprac
Well-Known Member
Coloured and now waxed.
stumpyj
Active Member
i replaced the fuel pump on my Landy. This is how I did it.
I measured 40.5cm from the nearside and 31.5cm from the rear of the tub. Marked this centre. Then masked off a square 22cm wide.
I used a 1mm cutting disc and carefully cut out the square.
I removed the plug. I used the fuel cap removal tool to take off the retaining ring. I should have done this the first time and I wouldn't have had to do this again!
The ring came off easily without any dramas. Worth the £15.
Out came the pump and also the float was hanging off. So thats why the fuel gauge wasnt working.
I smeared the new rubber seal with vaseline, and refitted before I fitted the pump. Next in went the pump and located it into the tab on the right hand side. I coated the inside of the metal retaining ring with vaseline and fitted it with the tool. Next on was the electrical plug and then the pipes.
I turned on the ignition and pushed the accelerator 5 times and the system then started the self bleed process.
I cut a section of stainless steel and used 3M chassis bonder and put this over the hole. I didnt want to rivet or screw it down as I wanted to keep the strength and didnt want to drill holes in the floor.
I then replaced the Land Rover rubber bed liner. Job done.
Then many beers in the sun feeling pleased with myself!
Stumpy
I measured 40.5cm from the nearside and 31.5cm from the rear of the tub. Marked this centre. Then masked off a square 22cm wide.
I used a 1mm cutting disc and carefully cut out the square.
I removed the plug. I used the fuel cap removal tool to take off the retaining ring. I should have done this the first time and I wouldn't have had to do this again!
The ring came off easily without any dramas. Worth the £15.
Out came the pump and also the float was hanging off. So thats why the fuel gauge wasnt working.
I smeared the new rubber seal with vaseline, and refitted before I fitted the pump. Next in went the pump and located it into the tab on the right hand side. I coated the inside of the metal retaining ring with vaseline and fitted it with the tool. Next on was the electrical plug and then the pipes.
I turned on the ignition and pushed the accelerator 5 times and the system then started the self bleed process.
I cut a section of stainless steel and used 3M chassis bonder and put this over the hole. I didnt want to rivet or screw it down as I wanted to keep the strength and didnt want to drill holes in the floor.
I then replaced the Land Rover rubber bed liner. Job done.
Then many beers in the sun feeling pleased with myself!
Stumpy
Attachments
JimS
Well-Known Member
Did that too last week the new LOF master works good, the bleeding took ages though
JimS
Well-Known Member
Previous owner had put a cheap remote central locking kit in, it knackered out the other day and thought I'd do something about it. Hated carrying around the JLR fob and another fob just for the remote locks anyway.
Turns out if you add a relay and varistor to the AS10 immobiliser PCB you can activate the central locking function (the tight bastids were really saving the pennies at JLR and just left these off the board on the non central locking vehicles)
Junked the Chinese controller, relay and crappy fobs , connected the actuators direct to the AS10, 5 minutes on nanocom and properly working locks again!
£7.99 well spent. Next job adding an actuator to the rear door, need to work out how to modify the lock to make it work.
Turns out if you add a relay and varistor to the AS10 immobiliser PCB you can activate the central locking function (the tight bastids were really saving the pennies at JLR and just left these off the board on the non central locking vehicles)
Junked the Chinese controller, relay and crappy fobs , connected the actuators direct to the AS10, 5 minutes on nanocom and properly working locks again!
£7.99 well spent. Next job adding an actuator to the rear door, need to work out how to modify the lock to make it work.
neilly
Well-Known Member
Not had the chance to take it out since, bleeding was not too bad for me, setting up did not take too long either. With the LOF spring and mastercylinder it definitely makes it lighter.
Cheers
frog hopper
Well-Known Member
Pinched up the horrid clips on the hose off the power steering reservour as mentioned by @jamesmartin in reply to someone else.
Pleased to say the almost continuous weep of fluid has now stopped. Thanks.
Pleased to say the almost continuous weep of fluid has now stopped. Thanks.
stumpyj
Active Member
After much deliberation, I decided to buy and fit a Britpart Swingaway Wheel Carrier to my Landy. After reading some of the reviews on this site about the instructions that come with the carrier I downloaded a full set, and this helped loads.
The carrier itself is really well made and pretty heavy duty. The only thing that I can see that it doesnt have is a bump stop, so not sure if it needs one?
Anyhoo I'd just like to pass on a few tips that from issues I had whilst installing it. I would advise that you grease the plastic washers before you put the frame on the truck. After my install I realised that it would be smoother so took it off and greased up everything.
Whilst my Defender is a pre 2002, I learnt on Saturday that she has had a post 2002 door fitted at some point! This is crucial when drilling the holes to put the plate on the door. Typical Landy stuff really.
Next up, I didnt feel that the aluminium skin was robust enough to take the flex of the door closing, so I inserted stainless steel panels in the inside of the door to give more support and these have turned out great. I know there are some issues with stainless to ally, but I wanted the support.
Pretty straight forward job. Hardest bit was drilling out the two rivets on the upper mount. Thats because there was only only one rivet! It took ages to line up these two bolts.
Anyway, all in all it took me about an hour and a half, but that included having a few cans and fiddling with the upper mount. If that had gone smoother it would have taken about 30 minutes.
Hope this helps someone
Cheers
Stumpy
The carrier itself is really well made and pretty heavy duty. The only thing that I can see that it doesnt have is a bump stop, so not sure if it needs one?
Anyhoo I'd just like to pass on a few tips that from issues I had whilst installing it. I would advise that you grease the plastic washers before you put the frame on the truck. After my install I realised that it would be smoother so took it off and greased up everything.
Whilst my Defender is a pre 2002, I learnt on Saturday that she has had a post 2002 door fitted at some point! This is crucial when drilling the holes to put the plate on the door. Typical Landy stuff really.
Next up, I didnt feel that the aluminium skin was robust enough to take the flex of the door closing, so I inserted stainless steel panels in the inside of the door to give more support and these have turned out great. I know there are some issues with stainless to ally, but I wanted the support.
Pretty straight forward job. Hardest bit was drilling out the two rivets on the upper mount. Thats because there was only only one rivet! It took ages to line up these two bolts.
Anyway, all in all it took me about an hour and a half, but that included having a few cans and fiddling with the upper mount. If that had gone smoother it would have taken about 30 minutes.
Hope this helps someone
Cheers
Stumpy
Attachments
Lief Zpring
Well-Known Member
Fitted the new fuel tank to the 110 300 tdi. What a pig of a job. Trying to defy gravity with the tank, guard and a dozen spacers, washers and nuts. Nighmare.
doriz
Well-Known Member
Haha, I made the stupid mistake of waxoiling the whole tank and guard before refitting. What a pita - wrestling a wet fish into place in 30 degree heat last year.
Lief Zpring
Well-Known Member
Haha. I feel your pain.
doriz
Well-Known Member
I cleaned my steering box tonight to try and identify the source of a leak.
neilly
Well-Known Member
Mine had just got worse over the last 6 months, ws leaking from the steering column side and being a 6 bolt it was easier to find a 4 bolt and replace it.
Cheers
Bit of a wheel wobble on nearside so thought I'd investigate preload.
Defo a problem
Only 3 of the 13 rollers were recovered
Do you think if I take the swivel ball seal off I'll be able to fish them out?
I bought new swivel pin bolts a year or so ago because I knew the bolt head's were passed their best. At least I thought I had
Defo a problem
Only 3 of the 13 rollers were recovered
Do you think if I take the swivel ball seal off I'll be able to fish them out?
I bought new swivel pin bolts a year or so ago because I knew the bolt head's were passed their best. At least I thought I had
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
youll have to strip down i find the loose rollers damage the chrome ball eventually,looks like a drive member boltBit of a wheel wobble on nearside so thought I'd investigate preload.
Defo a problem
View attachment 213145
Only 3 of the 13 rollers were recovered
View attachment 213146
Do you think if I take the swivel ball seal off I'll be able to fish them out?
I bought new swivel pin bolts a year or so ago because I knew the bolt head's were passed their best. At least I thought I had
View attachment 213147
I was hoping against hope really
I reckon I over shimmed when I set it up.
It'll take my mind if the turbo issue
By any chance do you know the part number of those bearings
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
standard tdi are 606666 td5 top bearing is differentI was hoping against hope really
I reckon I over shimmed when I set it up.
It'll take my mind if the turbo issue
By any chance do you know the part number of those bearings
Tremendous. Mine is a standard 1996 Tdi
@jamesmartin are the top and bottom bearings the same? I think they are, but can't remember for sure. That part number is coming up as lower bearing. Cheers.
