Jonnytoil
Member
Had my girl just over a year, I have loved every minute. This site has been invaluable for the many minor little niggles she’s given me, just got through an mot with a couple of small issues worst being the oil leak but after a good clean she sailed through on retest. I can honestly say I will never trade her in and will do my best to keep her on the road and pass her onto my grand babies.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
replaced the battery I removed the other week then I Took it for a drive. Went the tip. Got back and the Mrs loaded it with horse bedding & she has gone for another drive.
cappers
Well-Known Member
Fixed the rear wiper on my 90. Has not worked since I've got it in 2017 
There was power to the switch and to the wiper but the switch did nothing.
Watched this:
and then took it to bits. As expected the shaft had rusted into the tube but copious amounts of release agent and gentle tapping with a hammer as per Mike's video did the trick eventually.
De-rusted and cleaned it all up, greased and put back together. Plugged it into the connectors in the Landy, ignition on and turned the wiper switch to see the shaft turn back and forth....and then stop with the motor going..... whrrr......whrrr......whrrr...
Took it to bits again and all looked ok so this time removed the motor from its housing and found that one of the brushes had come adrift from its holder and a plastic collar supporting the commutator around the shaft was loose. This allowed enough play in the shaft to let the armature touch the stator magnets on the casing causing the hesitation.
Put the brush and commutator back together which was fiddly, joined the motor back to the wiper gearing and tested it on the bench.......whrrrrrrrrrrrr.......shaft rotating back and forth as it should Took the shaft out one more time, packed the tube and gears with grease, reassembled and tested once more, AOK
I'm chuffed because although I could live without it, as its there I'd rather it worked. This model STC3854 is hard to find and a replacement genuine part is about £400 +VAT Later versions could be adapted to work but they're not cheap either.
There was power to the switch and to the wiper but the switch did nothing.
Watched this:
and then took it to bits. As expected the shaft had rusted into the tube but copious amounts of release agent and gentle tapping with a hammer as per Mike's video did the trick eventually.
De-rusted and cleaned it all up, greased and put back together. Plugged it into the connectors in the Landy, ignition on and turned the wiper switch to see the shaft turn back and forth....and then stop with the motor going..... whrrr......whrrr......whrrr...
Took it to bits again and all looked ok so this time removed the motor from its housing and found that one of the brushes had come adrift from its holder and a plastic collar supporting the commutator around the shaft was loose. This allowed enough play in the shaft to let the armature touch the stator magnets on the casing causing the hesitation.
Put the brush and commutator back together which was fiddly, joined the motor back to the wiper gearing and tested it on the bench.......whrrrrrrrrrrrr.......shaft rotating back and forth as it should
Took the shaft out one more time, packed the tube and gears with grease, reassembled and tested once more, AOK I'm chuffed because although I could live without it, as its there I'd rather it worked. This model STC3854 is hard to find and a replacement genuine part is about £400 +VAT
Later versions could be adapted to work but they're not cheap either.
Fitted a quick-release steering hub, noticed that the steering column is looser than it probably should be!
When it reaches full lock the whole column (including cowls and switches etc) actually twists a bit. Pretty sure it's not meant to do that.
A job for the weekend then!
When it reaches full lock the whole column (including cowls and switches etc) actually twists a bit. Pretty sure it's not meant to do that.
A job for the weekend then!
frog hopper
Well-Known Member
Started on a timing belt change on my 200Tdi 90.
Some bits easy, some bits feckin difficult.
I run a leccy fan with no shroud so plenty of clearance, water pump came off OK but one bolt was really tight - just moved enough to give some hope so turned it back and forth just a little until it gradually wound out - complete.
Had a right mare getting the crank bolt off, tried the breaker bar against the chassis, again and again, just about despairing of ever getting the thing loose when it finally gave in on the 12th go.
Next problem was not being able to split the crank pulley off the balancer thingy, using the puller out of the timing tool set, I had to make up an extended bolt to wind into the puller. Bleedin thing resisted all the way, got the bugger though. Will now be able to use my workbench to split the pulley off the damper, hopefully then it will be easy to make a bar or something to hold the crank while I attempt to torque it all back together.
All the bolts came free off the front cover, even found one that was loose, the bolt that is more or less in the center of the cover, but the cover is playing hard to get now, dosn't want to come off, but to be honest have only tried very cautiously so far.
So why has it taken me 4 hours to do what should have been just over an hour?? age and the crapton factor.
Day off tomorrow, going fishing WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE HAAAAAAAAAAAA.
Some bits easy, some bits feckin difficult.
I run a leccy fan with no shroud so plenty of clearance, water pump came off OK but one bolt was really tight - just moved enough to give some hope so turned it back and forth just a little until it gradually wound out - complete.
Had a right mare getting the crank bolt off, tried the breaker bar against the chassis, again and again, just about despairing of ever getting the thing loose when it finally gave in on the 12th go.
Next problem was not being able to split the crank pulley off the balancer thingy, using the puller out of the timing tool set, I had to make up an extended bolt to wind into the puller. Bleedin thing resisted all the way, got the bugger though. Will now be able to use my workbench to split the pulley off the damper, hopefully then it will be easy to make a bar or something to hold the crank while I attempt to torque it all back together.
All the bolts came free off the front cover, even found one that was loose,
the bolt that is more or less in the center of the cover, but the cover is playing hard to get now, dosn't want to come off, but to be honest have only tried very cautiously so far. So why has it taken me 4 hours to do what should have been just over an hour?? age and the crapton factor.
Day off tomorrow, going fishing WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE HAAAAAAAAAAAA.
v8250
Well-Known Member
Here is the Land Rover 4:1 rule, though we know it's often the 10:1 rule
Zed.
Well-Known Member
v8250
Well-Known Member
frog hopper
Well-Known Member
200 Tdi 90. Well I don't know where all the time has gone today, seems as though I've spent all day doing very little.
A bit of careful easing of of the timing front cover, found locking the flywheel to be a bit of a faff, eventually gave up and got the doris to slowly rotate the crank while I was underneath getting the locking pin to locate. (wish it had a spring on it to push the pin into the slot as it lines up).
Anyway all locked in place, pump timing was cock on, so locking pin in there and off with the old belt which was in surprisingly good condition. I have to admit here that I have been a very naughty boy and was looking at mileage interval to change out the timing belt rather than time. This belt had been put on when I bought the 90 by a mechanic mate 10 years ago. Yes 10 years.. When I realised my mistake it was then a panic to get it done asap before I put too many more miles on her.
Anyway, an hour spent cleaning everything, change the oil seal, get the new Dayco belt on and tensioned - twice, as per book - new dust seal in front cover and everything is ready to go back together tomorrow. Think I'll run a smear of non setting gasket sealer around the water pump housing, don't want that leaking into the timing chest. And more time will be wasted tomorrow making a long handle crank locking bar to do the bolt up stupid tight.
A bit of careful easing of of the timing front cover, found locking the flywheel to be a bit of a faff, eventually gave up and got the doris to slowly rotate the crank while I was underneath getting the locking pin to locate. (wish it had a spring on it to push the pin into the slot as it lines up).
Anyway all locked in place, pump timing was cock on, so locking pin in there and off with the old belt which was in surprisingly good condition. I have to admit here that I have been a very naughty boy and was looking at mileage interval to change out the timing belt rather than time. This belt had been put on when I bought the 90 by a mechanic mate 10 years ago. Yes 10 years.
. When I realised my mistake it was then a panic to get it done asap before I put too many more miles on her.Anyway, an hour spent cleaning everything, change the oil seal, get the new Dayco belt on and tensioned - twice, as per book - new dust seal in front cover and everything is ready to go back together tomorrow. Think I'll run a smear of non setting gasket sealer around the water pump housing, don't want that leaking into the timing chest. And more time will be wasted tomorrow making a long handle crank locking bar to do the bolt up stupid tight.
frog hopper
Well-Known Member
Finished the new timing belt install today, no dramas fortunately, did make a bit of a cock-up though. So flushed with success after getting the front cover on I put a thin smear of non setting gasket sealer on the gasket and started putting on the new water pump. At this point it became obvious to me that the pump could get in the way while doggin up the crank bolt, the last thing I need would be to **** it and bust the thing, so off it came. Unfortunately by this time the gasket sealer had gone off and that meant the gasket was toast, had to use the gasket supplied in the timing belt kit which didn't seem to be as good as the one that came with the new water pump.
Anyway, I ended up making a crank locking tool to hold the balancer against the chassis while I heaved on a 5ft bar to do up the nut, god knows what torque I got it to, but it didn't bust and I don't think it's going to fall off anytime soon. Of course just for the fun of it the feckin tube of loctite was empty so an emergency trip to the local agri sales workshop, kin el €10.50 for a little tube of the stuff.
So all done and dusted, re-filled with the saved coolant, deep breath and turn the key, all good, in fact just on a couple of minutes running she seems a bit smoother, I might have just nudged the injection pump timing a fraction while fitting the belt, or I might just be imagining it. Give her a proper run tomorrow and a check over after, glad that's over. For sure if I do it again it will be a lot quicker.
Anyway, I ended up making a crank locking tool to hold the balancer against the chassis while I heaved on a 5ft bar to do up the nut, god knows what torque I got it to, but it didn't bust and I don't think it's going to fall off anytime soon. Of course just for the fun of it the feckin tube of loctite was empty so an emergency trip to the local agri sales workshop, kin el €10.50 for a little tube of the stuff.
So all done and dusted, re-filled with the saved coolant, deep breath and turn the key, all good, in fact just on a couple of minutes running she seems a bit smoother, I might have just nudged the injection pump timing a fraction while fitting the belt, or I might just be imagining it. Give her a proper run tomorrow and a check over after, glad that's over. For sure if I do it again it will be a lot quicker.
