Fitted a drivers side lock & handle to my split doors cr@ppy britpart this is the 3rd one ive fitted in 2 years
I thought id ordered another brand as there wasn't any signs of the blue packet & sticker on the advert.
Only to open the box & find another sh!tpart one
I thought id ordered another brand as there wasn't any signs of the blue packet & sticker on the advert.
Only to open the box & find another sh!tpart one
Huddy84
Well-Known Member
Fitted a drivers side lock & handle to my split doors cr@ppy britpart this is the 3rd one ive fitted in 2 years
I thought id ordered another brand as there wasn't any signs of the blue packet & sticker on the advert.
Only to open the box & find another sh!tpart one
Try ordering a specific brand. LR Direct let you choose which manufacturer or you can order direct from Bearmach site.
I bought a set of Bearmach ones when I built it & they didn't last either, what happens to them is something
goes inside them & the outer handle lifts up & down but does nothing.(strange)
It was my fault a bit quick to hit the button on bgay so I just fitted so it works for now.
After taking the 90 for a test run yesterday I had a squeaking alternator belt again. It turned out not to be the belt, but the bearing on the alternator
Whilst testing it with the engine running, I flipped the electric radiator fan on and realised it was running backwards so I swapped the wires over and now it pulls the air through rather than trying to push it out forwards
So, a new alternator before the trip on September 1st
Whilst testing it with the engine running, I flipped the electric radiator fan on and realised it was running backwards
so I swapped the wires over and now it pulls the air through rather than trying to push it out forwards So, a new alternator before the trip on September 1st
v8250
Well-Known Member
Well, this weekend's been highly productive. Bits kept falling off...no idea why! So, the the front end refurb can start with gusto...+ gave the chassis inners a thoroughly good 1 hour jet wash. Really surprised at how little muck/rust came out. Will let dry for this week. Air hose house Thurs/Fri, then start the chassis treatment + start blitzing the engine bay components ready for some healthy coats of underhood black.
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cappers
Well-Known Member
Today I fitted last year's Xmas gift i.e a Boomslang loom. Many write ups abound so I'll only comment on specific issues. The main one being it took about 3 hours to fit, more about that below. Points:
1. Looks well made, terminals crimped on hard with heat shrink etc.
2. Enough length to run the cable from the LHS light box, along the bottom of the rad attached to the oil cooler hose and up into the RHS box, with about 1" of slack either end.
3. Wire colours are odd...black, red and blue for the light feeds, hi's and earths to the lamp connectors, but the battery/alternator power feed is also red to the fuse then blue into the relays?
4. Enough live cable to reach the battery but I chopped it so it goes straight to the + on the alternator with the fuse by the relay.
5. Biggest time waster, not all Boomslang's fault, is it appears to be plug and play if you don't have lamp bowls If like on mine you do, then the terminals have to be removed from the connector, fed through the witches' hat grommet in the bowl, and the terminals on B/S connectors have to be removed from the ceramic connectors and fed back thought the grommet before assembling the connector within the bowl. Ok no big deal, I know how to use a jeweller's screwdriver to release the terminals but it is a big deal when in the distant past, the terminals have got so hot they welded to the plastic connectors Had to break to RHS one so that needs replacing (no matter as this is redundant in the B/S set up, but I want to keep it stock in case I revert, and it's a handy hi beam feed for any spotlights). Then can't get the terminals through the witches hat as they are crimped on post insertion; after a bit of surgery with the Stanley knife I got the grommet and wires out.
6. Putting the B/S wires in was also fun as the wires/insulation are a little thicker so witches' hat didn't quite fit; amazing what vaseline and brute force can achieve A wind or two of amalgamating tape made the hat complete again.
7. Relays came in a holder as did the in-line 40A fuse but no brackets for the relay holder, so for now these have been cable tied to a convenient and sheltered place.
8. Was it worth it? Haven't been for drive yet as I had a couple of beers to recuperate but putting them on in the dark a while ago they did seem to be brighter, and this was off the battery without the engine running. I'll feedback more in a day or two. There's also the peace of mind that high current isn't going through the switches etc now. It does look from the connectors and previous MoTs that there have been electrical issues, and when the conversion was done they had to rewire the dash and fuse board because it was quote "a f***ing mess and unsafe!"
Happy days.
Next pre MoT job...new rear shock absorbers. I was going for Monroes but willing to listen to any advice. Normal road use, rarely off road anymore, don't tow and rarely carry anything heavy. Good price that works and lasts. Cheers.
Edit 20/08/19 00.002
Thanks for all the advice.
In the end I went to eBay for a pair of Armstrongs (£48.95, click n collect, from uklandroverspares) although was tempted to go for Monroe gas (£67.68, free delivery from aceparts_uk) but for the usage she gets oil filled will do. Should arrive on Friday so a little job for the weekend.
i.e a Boomslang loom. Many write ups abound so I'll only comment on specific issues. The main one being it took about 3 hours to fit, more about that below. Points:1. Looks well made, terminals crimped on hard with heat shrink etc.
2. Enough length to run the cable from the LHS light box, along the bottom of the rad attached to the oil cooler hose and up into the RHS box, with about 1" of slack either end.
3. Wire colours are odd...black, red and blue for the light feeds, hi's and earths to the lamp connectors, but the battery/alternator power feed is also red to the fuse then blue into the relays?
4. Enough live cable to reach the battery but I chopped it so it goes straight to the + on the alternator with the fuse by the relay.
5. Biggest time waster, not all Boomslang's fault, is it appears to be plug and play if you don't have lamp bowls
If like on mine you do, then the terminals have to be removed from the connector, fed through the witches' hat grommet in the bowl, and the terminals on B/S connectors have to be removed from the ceramic connectors and fed back thought the grommet before assembling the connector within the bowl. Ok no big deal, I know how to use a jeweller's screwdriver to release the terminals but it is a big deal when in the distant past, the terminals have got so hot they welded to the plastic connectors Had to break to RHS one so that needs replacing (no matter as this is redundant in the B/S set up, but I want to keep it stock in case I revert, and it's a handy hi beam feed for any spotlights). Then can't get the terminals through the witches hat as they are crimped on post insertion; after a bit of surgery with the Stanley knife I got the grommet and wires out.6. Putting the B/S wires in was also fun as the wires/insulation are a little thicker so witches' hat didn't quite fit; amazing what vaseline and brute force can achieve
A wind or two of amalgamating tape made the hat complete again.7. Relays came in a holder as did the in-line 40A fuse but no brackets for the relay holder, so for now these have been cable tied to a convenient and sheltered place.
8. Was it worth it? Haven't been for drive yet as I had a couple of beers to recuperate but putting them on in the dark a while ago they did seem to be brighter, and this was off the battery without the engine running. I'll feedback more in a day or two. There's also the peace of mind that high current isn't going through the switches etc now. It does look from the connectors and previous MoTs that there have been electrical issues, and when the conversion was done they had to rewire the dash and fuse board because it was quote "a f***ing mess and unsafe!"
Happy days.
Next pre MoT job...new rear shock absorbers. I was going for Monroes but willing to listen to any advice. Normal road use, rarely off road anymore, don't tow and rarely carry anything heavy. Good price that works and lasts. Cheers.
Edit 20/08/19 00.002
Thanks for all the advice.
In the end I went to eBay for a pair of Armstrongs (£48.95, click n collect, from uklandroverspares) although was tempted to go for Monroe gas (£67.68, free delivery from aceparts_uk) but for the usage she gets oil filled will do. Should arrive on Friday so a little job for the weekend.
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frog hopper
Well-Known Member
I've never had a problem with Procomp dampers, also I was looking about in the search area and have seen many people recommend Britpart gas dampers. I was looking to replace all coils and dampers on my 90 like for like with a 2 " lift, so bought the Britpart kit from Paddocks, no problems on road or fairly severe off road in the last 6 months or so.
frog hopper
Well-Known Member
A tiring day for me today so I'm just collapsed in a big heap recovering before the next round.
Started off by fitting new hinges to the rear door and fitting that, a result, the door is a perfect fit even after my welding new metal into the bottom
Gave everything a wash over and fitted the wheel arches after a spray over with plastic/rubber primer.
Fitted the front doors for the final time (I hope), managed to remove the county stickers etc off the doors and bodywork, gave all the oxidized ally a good flatting back before a coat of etch primer on the bare bits. Started flatting the rest of the body in prep for 1st colour coat tomorrow morning.
Still loads to do, but I can work on the rest underneath and the internals/electrics over the next few days while the various coats of paint are drying.
Started off by fitting new hinges to the rear door and fitting that, a result,
the door is a perfect fit even after my welding new metal into the bottom Gave everything a wash over and fitted the wheel arches after a spray over with plastic/rubber primer.
Fitted the front doors for the final time (I hope), managed to remove the county stickers etc off the doors and bodywork, gave all the oxidized ally a good flatting back before a coat of etch primer on the bare bits. Started flatting the rest of the body in prep for 1st colour coat tomorrow morning.
Still loads to do, but I can work on the rest underneath and the internals/electrics over the next few days while the various coats of paint are drying.
Lief Zpring
Well-Known Member
Removed transfer box from my 110 300tdi. Eagerly awaiting the replacement from Ashcrofts.
v8250
Well-Known Member
Guys, a note of thanks to all here. At 22.40 last night it appears I've been awarded a "I like it a lot" trophy for your likes. I have no idea what to do with this trophy. Is it a 'virtual trophy', do you all come over for tea and biccies offering worldly LR advice...or does a bikini clad lovely and her twin sister arrive with trophy in hand and ask to stay for breakfast Either way, thank you
ps have just googled 'bikini twins', woohoo!
Either way, thank youps have just googled 'bikini twins', woohoo!
callisr
Well-Known Member
Shimsteriom
Master Procrastinator
Google?
callisr
Well-Known Member
Yep
Just google ‘girl on Raleigh chopper’
Remember to include ‘raleigh’ or you end up with very different pictures!!!
https://www.google.com/search?q=gir...hWMqaQKHTABDagQ_AUoAXoECA0QAQ&biw=320&bih=454
Just google ‘girl on Raleigh chopper’
Remember to include ‘raleigh’ or you end up with very different pictures!!!
https://www.google.com/search?q=gir...hWMqaQKHTABDagQ_AUoAXoECA0QAQ&biw=320&bih=454
Yep
Just google ‘girl on Raleigh chopper’
Remember to include ‘raleigh’ or you end up with very different pictures!!!
https://www.google.com/search?q=gir...hWMqaQKHTABDagQ_AUoAXoECA0QAQ&biw=320&bih=454
I just did some nice pics of choppers
(2 wheel kind)
Ironstrike
Well-Known Member
Replaced the lift pump for no reason turns out it was a bit of crap in the fuel line that was working like a valve, when you blew through the pipe it was all clear but (as I found out) when you blew through in the other direction (or left the pipe connected and sucked in a nice mouthful of Diesel) the piece of stray crap closed off the fuel line. The moral of this story is blowing and sucking are not always the same
turns out it was a bit of crap in the fuel line that was working like a valve, when you blew through the pipe it was all clear but (as I found out) when you blew through in the other direction (or left the pipe connected and sucked in a nice mouthful of Diesel) the piece of stray crap closed off the fuel line. The moral of this story is blowing and sucking are not always the same 
Blaven
Active Member
The moral of this story is blowing and sucking are not always the same
That’s exactly what I keep telling my girlfriend!
