Getting the bug again after picking up the 1999 D2 last week, Ordered an interior removal tool kit off Amazon, ready to remove headliner and full interior as everything soaked.
Had a steel winch bumper dropped off by a good lad from marketplace
waiting for ignition switch in the post
Had a steel winch bumper dropped off by a good lad from marketplace
waiting for ignition switch in the post
Hahaha Ived got to do like too mate!
Another full service then did a 269 mile round trip average mpg 25.3. I’ll take that and she’s running well. LOF clutch in it is now 22 months old and hasn’t missed a beat pulling the tin tent over the last 12 months.
Clutch sorted, new slave and master fitted. Was the seal on the master that disintegrated.
Second issue sorted ... Wound back the wastegate as I was getting overboost issues, and found splits in the hose feeding the actuator. Cut the ends off and refitted... power was restored. Got to buy some decent hose now, not the crappy Chinese stuff off Ebay that lasts 24 months....
Second issue sorted ... Wound back the wastegate as I was getting overboost issues, and found splits in the hose feeding the actuator. Cut the ends off and refitted... power was restored. Got to buy some decent hose now, not the crappy Chinese stuff off Ebay that lasts 24 months....
Had a bit of a flat spot at 2k (Td5) so wondered what disconnecting the MAF would do.... seems a lot more sprightly, so looks like a new MAF is in order. For the first few seconds after start up, acceleration was flat as a pancake, then off it went - is that normal? I'm assuming the hesitation is the ECU looking for a MAF reading, then gives up and goes to the default setting.
In other news, I've been plagued with a weeping top hose. Recent genuine LR replacement, but it's weeping from the connection to the radiator. I swapped the spring clip that it came with for a jubilee and have tightened it up several times but no joy. I pulled it off last weekend and smeared some windscreen sealer around the rad pipe (getting desperate! ) but it's still weeping, wretched object. I can't see that the rad pipe has a fracture in it, but might have. Anyone else had this?
In other news, I've been plagued with a weeping top hose. Recent genuine LR replacement, but it's weeping from the connection to the radiator. I swapped the spring clip that it came with for a jubilee and have tightened it up several times but no joy. I pulled it off last weekend and smeared some windscreen sealer around the rad pipe (getting desperate! ) but it's still weeping, wretched object. I can't see that the rad pipe has a fracture in it, but might have. Anyone else had this?
Removed the tailgate handle cover today as every time I opened it lately my hands got wet. I took one of the no. plate illumination lights out & about 1/2 a pint of water came out !
So the cause is a bit missing from the handle cover gasket. I stripped/cleaned it all & put some black silicone sealer in the 'hole', we'll see what happens next time I wash it.
So the cause is a bit missing from the handle cover gasket. I stripped/cleaned it all & put some black silicone sealer in the 'hole', we'll see what happens next time I wash it.
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Started to change the p/s pipes which turns out is no 5 min job 
as you have to remove the intercooler & auto g/box rad.
The aftermarket pipes aren't great the ends that go into the steering box only have one o-ring on each pipe (the genuine have two on each pipe) & the high pressure side was a job to get in so I just hope the bloody thing seals also the clamp that's fixed to the hp side won't clamp down as it's to big & fouls on the steering box casting so I had to cut a bit off it (the clamping plate).
So the pipes are all connected & system filled & I'll finish reassembly tomorrow along with another o/s fr. suspension turret, spring & lower damper bush. I was pleased the red ecu plug had no oil in it (done about 5k since I changed the inj. harness).
as you have to remove the intercooler & auto g/box rad.The aftermarket pipes aren't great the ends that go into the steering box only have one o-ring on each pipe (the genuine have two on each pipe) & the high pressure side was a job to get in so I just hope the bloody thing seals also the clamp that's fixed to the hp side won't clamp down as it's to big & fouls on the steering box casting so I had to cut a bit off it (the clamping plate)
.So the pipes are all connected & system filled & I'll finish reassembly tomorrow along with another o/s fr. suspension turret, spring & lower damper bush. I was pleased the red ecu plug had no oil in it (done about 5k since I changed the inj. harness).
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Finished it off last night @21.30 hrs 
& topped up the g/box this morning quick 10 mile test drive & no leaks.
I use one of these Draper pump bottles for the g/box top up (took just over 1/2 litre) & these 3/8 drive snap on bits for removing/fitting the level plug as they're just right to get above the pipes to the oil cooler.
& topped up the g/box this morning quick 10 mile test drive & no leaks.I use one of these Draper pump bottles for the g/box top up (took just over 1/2 litre) & these 3/8 drive snap on bits for removing/fitting the level plug as they're just right to get above the pipes to the oil cooler.
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Got under mine with the grease gun and oil can, came out looking very dirty.
But the underside has it's protection topped up.
But the underside has it's protection topped up.
JUKE179r
Well-Known Member
I now have a dead battery and I still can’t open my bonnet to access it. I had to crawl under her and attach the Ctek MXS 7.0 charger to the starter’s positive connection and to the frame earth for a charge.
So far so good reconditioning the battery. We’ll see what happens tomorrow morning.
I had to crawl under her and attach the Ctek MXS 7.0 charger to the starter’s positive connection and to the frame earth for a charge.So far so good reconditioning the battery. We’ll see what happens tomorrow morning.
