Fitted a Dixon bate adjustable tow bar
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just cleaned up the rear of the nearside sill. thick with mud behind the plastic trim
and started to rust on the edge of the wheel arch.might just last a bit longer.
 
So there I was driving in traffic, went to change gear in my TD5, clutch pedal to the floor, so stopped the car into 1st, let the traffic pull away, start the engine in first, pull into neutral , then reve up into second then third, a slow drive the 15 miles home, so master cylinder out slave cylinder out, and both stripped, looks like the spring Broke in the master cylinder and deformed the cup seal but kits don’t come with springs so need a new one , so to be safe ordered master and slave , well 22 years old now and 152000 on the clock, so I can’t complain, and I still got home
 
zzr1200 said:
My 2001 disco failed the MOT on anti-roll bar ties and front axle knuckle ball joints last week, I replaced all 4 ball joints and anti-roll bar tie rods.
Not a bad job really just done a bit differently....

Now I've done the job once, it's time to make a proper hydraulic removal/installation press...
Click to expand...


I have now fabricated and turned the hydraulic press/arbors for Disco/P38 steering axle ball joints, seems to work well enough.. with a 30 ton ram....:rolleyes:....:D

PS:- Anybody who is faced with replacing the ball joints and they don't have tools to press them out/in, I maybe able to help (with the pressing) if you don't live to far away...

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Last edited:
Still prepping the Disco for its MOT. Replaced the rear ARB droplinks for Lemforders, and fitted two new poly bushes to the bar... dropped in a patch or two to the rear chassis, only to find a mahoosive hole behind the rear spring. I think the tanks going to have to come out for some welding.
 
Replacement Connects2 wiring harness arrived yesterday, fitted and the steering wheel controls are working perfectly. Also fitted replacement handbrake and gearshift gaiters... looks nice now, not shabby.
 
Cut out some rot in the rear o/s chassis leg. Seam welded a new 2mm patch in, and ground down the welds. That will keep the mot man happy. Still a hole above, but the tanks got to come out to stitch a new plate in that one. Really needs a half chassis if I was going to go full ocd, but this will do for another year....Had to cut off the tie down to get at it. Already had two patches on the section front of the tie down, and looking at it, I should have cut these out as well, to make one long strip.

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I (Last week) fitted new boot door lock actuator, Torx screws were supeer tight.
Also power washed the rear arches ready for Waxoyling.

Andy
Hull
 
Picked up a new front and rear wheel bearing for the mot, plus seals. Got two sets of lower spring plates, and upper spring isolators, for a replacement set of springs... Just need some rear shocks, and a few bushes for the Watts linkage....
 
tilly2 said:
Replacement Connects2 wiring harness arrived yesterday, fitted and the steering wheel controls are working perfectly.
Click to expand...
Which brand of head unit do you have? I have a Sony and for some reason the steering wheel controls don’t work correctly with the Connects2 wiring.
 
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