yfo866 said:
In he early eighties i left school and my first job was on a local farm on a YTS. Youth Training Scheme. Remember those?
After about a month the farmer, Harry, says "if we get (i forget what) all finished tomorrow i'll bring in some home made cider."
Whatever it was was finished and as promised Harry produced a pop bottle full of what looked like urine.
Two mugs were produced and handing one to me he tells me that it'll put hair on my chest.
Well, not that day. All it did was reduce me to a grinning idiot incapable of stringing together words into a comprehensive sentence.
He decided it would be best if i just sat on the hay bales in the barn for a couple of hours until 5pm when it was suggested that i didn't mention this to my mom or the woman from the job shop who would come down once a week to check i hadn't been killed or decided to knock it on the head.
I've always been wary of ANY cider that hasn't got bubbles in it ever since...
Click to expand...
Being a bit older than you i left school in 72 and in those days proper scrumpy could be bought from certain pubs. But they often wouldn't sell it to just anyone, or if they didn't know you they'd limit your consumption.
Places around Bath were the ones we went to. Sadly the stuff they sell now looks and is a fainter version of the original.
Middle dottir got married in zumerzet, can't remember where now, Cannington? andyway she and husband had been at the college there so the pub we had the reception in was their local and again, he would only serve Scrumpy to those he knew!
Proper stuff that takes the enamel off your teeth, lovely!
 
Just fitted an Ostrich Wing awning and well pleased with it. I have been scratching my head for a while as to how to fit an awning as I don't have a roof rack to fit one to. As the Bundutop tent takes up the entire roof and would leave no space on a roof rack, it was lighter, cheaper and made more sense to mount it on 4x Flatdog roof bars. I could have fabricated some simple L brackets to attach to the roof bars, but there would have been a serious gap between the awning and the side of the Disco.
Eventually I came across the brackets made by Tough Touring in Australia designed to fit an Ostrich Wing directly to the tent itself. The result is a very neat fit and with the load well distributed across large brackets attached in two directions with more rivets than the mind can comfortably imagine, it also seems really strong.
Brackets supplied by Tough Touring (cheers Mark), fitted by LVBOverland (cheers Chris and Larry) and with an awning and tent supplied by Tuff Trek (cheers Dara and Lucy).
Ostrich Awn 1a.jpg
Ostrich Awn 3a.jpg
Ostrich Awn 4a.jpg
 
yfo866 said:
Tuesday...

Just spent two hours replacing the rear door lock in the D2.
I sometimes think before anyone can work on their car they should be licenced, like sparkys are. Or at the very least any car that i'll be buying in the future. Spent half an hour trying to undo the m6 nuts holding on the back door speaker assembly. Would have been easy if the muppet who fitted it had tightened up the nuts holding the 40mm bolts in place. Instead i had to hold the thread of the bolt while undoing the nut because the nuts behind the speaker assembly were loose and turning with the nut :(
Then it was onto the inch and a half screws holding the driver's side of the door panel in place. One of the screws holding what would be in any other Disco the grill mesh protecting the speakers. In my case no mesh, just another layer to remove. One of the screws was over two inches long!
Then wrestled to get the old lock out. All the rods came apart easily. Just a pain to get the lock actually to leave the door...
If getting the old one out was a pain it was a doddle getting the new one in. Couldn't see what was getting in the way. Lots of swearing seemed to help!
Reengaged the rods, plugged in the electrics, locked it, unlocked it and tried the door handle. All works!
Fitted washers to the bolts that hold the speakers in. Tightned up the nuts. Panel back on, speakers back on, shut the door, opened the door. Shut the door, climbed into the back to open from the inside... Door handle doesn't work. Back out, opens from the outside, screwdriver into the lock mechanism to simulate door closed, pulls on internal handle, doesn't work.
Grabs tools, closes door. Locks car, goes inside. Apparantly the neighbours don't like it when i burst out into tears when a car fix goes wrong...
Googled "Discovery 2 back door doesn't open from inside."
Someone was moaning about why their door wouldn't open and assured. Someone suggested it was a stretched cable from the handle.
Didn't think that was my trouble as it worked with the old lock(which wouldn't open from the outside), then the OP assured readers that he had checked the child lock...
Child lock?
Let's hope it's that!
Can't face the potential disappointment tonight, so will check when i get home tomorrow

Wednesday...

YAY! It WAS the child lock!
Click to expand...
Hi, so it (the child lock) isn't there just to fool kids ?:):) I didn't know it had c/l on the tailgate. I had similar frustrations when I deceided to get the spare wheel carrier painted, I undone the first bolt yhinking I'm glad the nuts are captive but naaa got the bolt all the way out then clank the 'captive' nut fell inside the tailgate:mad: so I removed the rest (can't believe all six come undone without having to remove the door card there & then). Once painted had to remove the whole shooting match like you just to put it back on:rolleyes:. Luckily apart from when I did the wiper motor it was unmolested so came apart ok.
 
02Disco2 said:
Looks great - which brand did you go for and did you have the side steps on before?

Out of interest what tyres (make/size) do you have on?
Click to expand...


Hi, they are from Dixon fabrication and no I didn't have side steps fitted before just the plastic covers.

My tyres are BFG mud terrains 265 75 16 looking at getting some discoverer stt pro's though as mine are getting a bit worn/old now.
 
Rnicholson90 said:
Hi, they are from Dixon fabrication and no I didn't have side steps fitted before just the plastic covers.

My tyres are BFG mud terrains 265 75 16 looking at getting some discoverer stt pro's though as mine are getting a bit worn/old now.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I’ve got the side steps on mine and they need to come off really so will have to check out the Dixon site
 
02Disco2 said:
Thanks. I’ve got the side steps on mine and they need to come off really so will have to check out the Dixon site
Click to expand...

They are really good quality and fit perfectly! Takes a while to get them from him as he's so busy but I can't fault the quality! Also got my steering guard off him as well and that's a really good bit of kit as well.
 
Sounds good - I looked at his bumpers last year but like you say he had a long wait!
The sliders are next on the list when I’ve found time to fit the snorkel!
 
02Disco2 said:
Sounds good - I looked at his bumpers last year but like you say he had a long wait!
The sliders are next on the list when I’ve found time to fit the snorkel!
Click to expand...
If you are going to fit Dixon sliders I recommend the "Fatties" as they make a much better step. Take a look at the final photo in post #4722 to see mine.
I also suggest using skateboard grip tape as they all get really slippery in muddy boots and you can bark your shin very easily. It also protects the coating from wear. Just warn people in shorts or skirts not to catch the back of the calf when getting out as the grip tape will scrape skin!

If you get ones with jacking points as I did, then you may well find that water gets in and you get rusty streaks from the jack points. I treated mine with coats of Kurust, sealed the round inside joins with JB Weld Metal, then painted on a few coats of Hammerite - all been good since then.
I also found that one of them would fill with water and I was concerned about internal rusting. So when I had the chassis and underside dinitrol protected by Flatdog, they drilled drain holes in them and sprayed dinitrol into both as if they were chassis rails.
 
Si Click said:
If you are going to fit Dixon sliders I recommend the "Fatties" as they make a much better step. Take a look at the final photo in post #4722 to see mine.
I also suggest using skateboard grip tape as they all get really slippery in muddy boots and you can bark your shin very easily. It also protects the coating from wear. Just warn people in shorts or skirts not to catch the back of the calf when getting out as the grip tape will scrape skin!

If you get ones with jacking points as I did, then you may well find that water gets in and you get rusty streaks from the jack points. I treated mine with coats of Kurust, sealed the round inside joins with JB Weld Metal, then painted on a few coats of Hammerite - all been good since then.
I also found that one of them would fill with water and I was concerned about internal rusting. So when I had the chassis and underside dinitrol protected by Flatdog, they drilled drain holes in them and sprayed dinitrol into both as if they were chassis rails.
Click to expand...
Good advice - thanks. Like the grip tape idea and I’ll try not to wear short skirts when getting out :D:cool:

the Fatty version looks good and will probably the one I go with when I can convince the other half!!
 
I also recommend grip tape on ladder rungs. I have heard of people slipping on those in the middle of the night and breaking their leg miles from anywhere.
 
Si Click said:
I also recommend grip tape on ladder rungs. I have heard of people slipping on those in the middle of the night and breaking their leg miles from anywhere.
Click to expand...
another great idea - my daughter uses the ladder all the time so that's another job for the weekend!
 
Rnicholson90 said:
My tyres are BFG mud terrains 265 75 16 looking at getting some discoverer stt pro's though as mine are getting a bit worn/old now.
Click to expand...

To be honest I would stick to BFG as I have had the Cooper STT pro's on for 5 years and I came from all terrains and the grip on the road in the wet with the coopers is not good and to be honest haven't thought 'wow' when off roading either, so I will defo be going back to BFG all terrains after these have worn off..... Just my opinion.... As although I off road, I am on the road more.
 
Si Click said:
Just fitted an Ostrich Wing awning and well pleased with it. I have been scratching my head for a while as to how to fit an awning as I don't have a roof rack to fit one to. As the Bundutop tent takes up the entire roof and would leave no space on a roof rack, it was lighter, cheaper and made more sense to mount it on 4x Flatdog roof bars. I could have fabricated some simple L brackets to attach to the roof bars, but there would have been a serious gap between the awning and the side of the Disco.
Eventually I came across the brackets made by Tough Touring in Australia designed to fit an Ostrich Wing directly to the tent itself. The result is a very neat fit and with the load well distributed across large brackets attached in two directions with more rivets than the mind can comfortably imagine, it also seems really strong.
Brackets supplied by Tough Touring (cheers Mark), fitted by LVBOverland (cheers Chris and Larry) and with an awning and tent supplied by Tuff Trek (cheers Dara and Lucy).View attachment 243389 View attachment 243390 View attachment 243391
Click to expand...


WOW. I didn't know you could buy a carumbrella?
 
Andy Warren said:
Hi, so it (the child lock) isn't there just to fool kids ?:):) I didn't know it had c/l on the tailgate. I had similar frustrations when I deceided to get the spare wheel carrier painted, I undone the first bolt yhinking I'm glad the nuts are captive but naaa got the bolt all the way out then clank the 'captive' nut fell inside the tailgate:mad: so I removed the rest (can't believe all six come undone without having to remove the door card there & then). Once painted had to remove the whole shooting match like you just to put it back on:rolleyes:. Luckily apart from when I did the wiper motor it was unmolested so came apart ok.
Click to expand...
I bought my first D1 off ebay, unseen. It was far away up the M6 so i checked out his numerous pics and sent questions. The main one was, "Do all of the electrics work?" Then specifically asked about seats, sunroof and windows. Yes, he says, everything works!
So we agreed a price and i got the train to him and he picked me up from the station.
So there i am just pressing buttons and he suggests not sending the driver's seat too far back.
Why?
Because it doesn't always come forwards again...
Then he mentions how i shouldn't lower the passenger side rear window as that can be a pain to get back up.
So after i have a minor hissy fit regarding my questions he agrees to knock off £300.
I wasn't worried because i'd already looked into the issues with dry soldered joints on the ECUs.
I drove to the nearest petrol station to fill up and while there checked the windscreen wipers. Front worked, rear didn't.
So i added checking the fuse to my list. It must have been about four months later when i noticed there was no rear wiper arm. I thought to myself that it wasn't the fuse after all.(not that i'd checked it yet)
Some time later i noticed there was a hole in the back door.
A hole about where i'd expect the rear wiper motor spindle to stick out.
This [insert expletive here] had not only lied about the electrics but neglected to mention the fact the rear wiper motor was missing...
I never did get around to fitting a new one. I just filled the hole with a grommet :D
 
Andy Warren said:
Hi, so it (the child lock) isn't there just to fool kids ?:):) I didn't know it had c/l on the tailgate. I had similar frustrations when I deceided to get the spare wheel carrier painted, I undone the first bolt yhinking I'm glad the nuts are captive but naaa got the bolt all the way out then clank the 'captive' nut fell inside the tailgate:mad: so I removed the rest (can't believe all six come undone without having to remove the door card there & then). Once painted had to remove the whole shooting match like you just to put it back on:rolleyes:. Luckily apart from when I did the wiper motor it was unmolested so came apart ok.
Click to expand...
I suspect all Discos come with centre locking on the tailgate. Both of my D1s had it too, but they were both ES spec. On my second it also stopped working, but on the D1 it's down to the spring that pushes up the 'peg' that shows if it's locked or unlocked. It wears and pops up when you unlock it but as you pull on the handle to open the door you can see the peg drop ever so slightly and the door locks itself. The only option then is to hold the peg up while you use the inner handle. All the doors can suffer from the same issue. It spread to the rear passenger door on mine too. On my D1 i was looking at making a U shaped bracket that would fit above the peg and connect the peg to a spring to assist holding the peg up when i unlocked it, anything to not have to remove the lock mechanism as i believe they aren't as easy to remove as the D2. In the end while returning home after picking up a second hand rear axle to replace my whiny one, the gearbox went poopy so i started looking for another gearbox. Unfortunately the one i bought had an '02 TD5 D2 attached to it.
On the negative side the battery leaks electricity, the electric seats no longer move unless i run a live feed to the fuse under the seat, the head gasket went, the throttle pedal failed (AT WORK)
On the plus side, axles and gearbox are quiet. It's got a new battery, throttle pedal, head gasket and i now know what my 10 mile commute from work is like at tick over speed...

I sometimes wonder if Land Rovers are just insecure. Mine continually make me show that i still love them by making me spend money them!
 
Remap done - Storm Tuning stage 1 - now that’s made a difference!! And so easy with the nanocom.

plugged into the Cytek overnight to get the battery back up to fully charged then time to get a bit of mud on the tyres tomorrow!
 
Last edited:
02Disco2 said:
Remap done - Storm Tuning stage 1 - now that’s made a difference!! And so easy with the nanocom.

plugged into the Cytek overnight to get the battery back up to fully charged then time to get a bit of mud on the tyres tomorrow!
Click to expand...
How long does it take to load the new map? Is the battery really at risk of going flat during the process?
Would it not be better to have it checked on a rolling road or are these remaps that good?
Was your Disco sluggish beforehand? How many miles has it done?
I sometimes think my D2 is slower than my old 300TDi!
I'm sure it doesn't help every time i jump into it i've just hopped out of a remapped decatted 1.9TDi FR Seat Ibiza which hits 60mph in 5.6 seconds...
 
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