Millertime_9
Active Member
Passed mot yesterday and sorted my immobiliser problems by turning the alarm system off altogether with a nanocom
Yeeha!
Yeeha!
Sgt Flanders
Member
Replaced injector loom and cleaned out the ecu. Rocker cover was a bit of a pita to get back on!
Sgt Flanders
Member
No, I dont think so, which bit is that? The bulkhead got in the way when trying to put the cover back on whilst keeping the gasket in place.
JUKE179r
Well-Known Member
Today from inside my warm house I looked at Myrtle with disgust parked in my car port.
For the past month She’s had electrical problems popping fuse F2 in the V8 engine bay that I have been troubleshooting but can’t pinpoint the problem.
It’s time to turn it over to a professional to sort out.
For the past month She’s had electrical problems popping fuse F2 in the V8 engine bay that I have been troubleshooting but can’t pinpoint the problem.
It’s time to turn it over to a professional to sort out.
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Hippo
Lord Hippo
Could you use a process of elimination by removing all the fuses after f2 in turn, to see where the path of current is flowing? When f2 stops blowing the last one pulled is the path.
JUKE179r
Well-Known Member
Yep. Been there, done that, time for a pro to step in and do it right.
I have done a few things to the beast since new brake pipe.
To repair and restore the rusty rear of the beast;
Rear seats, dicky seats and all seat belts removed.
Headliner removed.
Rear bumper removed.
Boot floor removed - what a job and most of the edges came with it too.
Anti roll bar grinded off and removed.
Fuel pipes snapped off at the pump outlets - new pump needed.
Towbar removal abandoned as both chassis bolts seized in and snapped, be told to grind a slot, heat and penetrating fluid - the joys.
Fuel tank removed - all brackets/bolts need some work or replaced.
Mudflaps and holders removed - need lots of work or replaced.
Fuel filler removed - everything seized solid, clips hacksawed off, rubber collar at top was a **** in the freezing cold - new one needed.
Both rear quarter panels removed, 6 hours work in the drizzle - heat gun is your friend!
Bought a freelander to get myself about.
Not done in a day, took 4 days of evenings and one wet saturday afternoon
To repair and restore the rusty rear of the beast;
Rear seats, dicky seats and all seat belts removed.
Headliner removed.
Rear bumper removed.
Boot floor removed - what a job and most of the edges came with it too.
Anti roll bar grinded off and removed.
Fuel pipes snapped off at the pump outlets - new pump needed.
Towbar removal abandoned as both chassis bolts seized in and snapped, be told to grind a slot, heat and penetrating fluid - the joys.
Fuel tank removed - all brackets/bolts need some work or replaced.
Mudflaps and holders removed - need lots of work or replaced.
Fuel filler removed - everything seized solid, clips hacksawed off, rubber collar at top was a **** in the freezing cold - new one needed.
Both rear quarter panels removed, 6 hours work in the drizzle - heat gun is your friend!
Bought a freelander to get myself about.
Not done in a day, took 4 days of evenings and one wet saturday afternoon
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stuu
Well-Known Member
Ordered some stuff since it all seemed to go iffy at once.
Maf.
Map.
Aap.
Boost control soloniod thing.
Front ends got crashy coming off of some bumps. Looks to be springs compressing and hitting themselves.
Ordered some springs and shocks..
Ordered a new top radiator hose and fitted a new cap thankfully same cap as a bmw diesel I have a few brand new.
Looks like il need a radiator soon too started to bow a little at the bottom and the cooling fins are crusty and falling off.
and worst of all the drivers heated seat has stopped being hot passenger side works fine.
Maf.
Map.
Aap.
Boost control soloniod thing.
Front ends got crashy coming off of some bumps. Looks to be springs compressing and hitting themselves.
Ordered some springs and shocks..
Ordered a new top radiator hose and fitted a new cap thankfully same cap as a bmw diesel I have a few brand new.
Looks like il need a radiator soon too started to bow a little at the bottom and the cooling fins are crusty and falling off.
and worst of all the drivers heated seat has stopped being hot passenger side works fine.
brianconwy
Well-Known Member
Managed to get hold of an engine locally. Now on stand in garage. The cheap stand off eBay looks only just strong enough. I want to change oil pump bolt and install injectors before trying to fit on car. I have ordered a service kit so will drain oil and change filters. Anything else I should do while on stand?
I'd have a damn good look at every joint and ancillary with a decent lamp/torch - and make sure everything looks ship shape - cleaning any crap out of fins and such as you go...
The oil pump bolt, as you say, is a must too
brianconwy
Well-Known Member
It was still in the donor car when I bought it so I did get to see it running. I was going to use the clutch from our car which I only fitted in March but there is plenty of material on this drive plate.I'd have a damn good look at every joint and ancillary with a decent lamp/torch - and make sure everything looks ship shape - cleaning any crap out of fins and such as you go...
The oil pump bolt, as you say, is a must too
