1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Glad you said that, helps me convince the missus I need to spend £50 instead of £20
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332353459391
The one I've seen
Glad you said that, helps me convince the missus I need to spend £50 instead of £20
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332353459391
The one I've seen
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Top man cheers
brian47
Well-Known Member
The little arrows can be a bit hard to see when you're lying under a Disco with bits of crud and crap falling in your eyes every time you move. A good tip is to use a dab of Tipex correction fluid to enhance the little marks before you start the replacement job.
neilly
Well-Known Member
What................!!!!..................Dirt falling off of the Disco................Tis what I have the fender for.....LOL.
Cheers
brian47
Well-Known Member
If you're going to try to replace the centering bush, then I wish you good luck, it's an absolute bitch of a job apparently to get the old one off .... be warned.
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Top tip!
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Might as well while I'm at it! (Naive, ignorant, blissfully unaware of horror) Suitably warned thank you, it's gonna be one of those jobs ain't it?
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neilly
Well-Known Member
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
brian47
Well-Known Member
Even bigger top tip! Last time I changed the centre bush, I bought the full kit and handed it over to my local indie garage to do the job for me. All sorted and no torn knuckles, well not my knuckles at least!
Honestly, if the centre bush is firm and looks OK and you're doing the job yourself, I'd be tempted to give it a miss this time round and just change the doughnut.
All sorted and no torn knuckles, well not my knuckles at least!Honestly, if the centre bush is firm and looks OK and you're doing the job yourself, I'd be tempted to give it a miss this time round and just change the doughnut.
neilly
Well-Known Member
No Idea, never had to do it as mine was in good shape when I have taken it off and looked at it. Never needed to remove the ctr bushing either. Sorry.
From what I have seen, looks like a typical LR bush, attack with chisel, etc, etc.
Cheers
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Even bigger top tip! Last time I changed the centre bush, I bought the full kit and handed it over to my local indie garage to do the job for me.
getting tempting to be fair! If the bush is worn the new donut won't last as long as it should anyway im guessing.Changed the middle pipe and back box on my moms Datsun Juke today so not in a great rush to get under a car again for a bit
Might let the judder develop a bit more so I can diagnose it easier. Hopefully before something big lets go though
brian47
Well-Known Member
Another point worth noting .... for some reason known only to the Land Rover gods (or demons), the bolts and nuts on the prop shafts are not metric, they require a 9/16" AF spanner.
You can get a long socket specifically to fit, it's about 5 or 6 inches long and does make the job easier if you have to work on the prop shafts.
You can get a long socket specifically to fit, it's about 5 or 6 inches long and does make the job easier if you have to work on the prop shafts.
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Demons. Definitely demons
Co-Pang-Yang
Well-Known Member
Disco went for an emergency mot this week after discovering on Saturday that the mot didn't run till November as I originally thought but in fact had run out in May
Fortunately got a pass with a bulb and wiper blades plus the usual advisories for rust.
Needless to say have noted on the calendar when it's due.
Fortunately got a pass with a bulb and wiper blades plus the usual advisories for rust.
Needless to say have noted on the calendar when it's due.
Started replacing the TD5 injector seals, all was well until the last injector clamp bolt snapped
New bolt fitted yesterday, runs and sounds better for the new seals. Off home now to see if I still get the smokey starting after it's been stood overnight.
Well, removed the piece of PVC which has been covering the SRS warning light and cured the problem by repairing the broken wires to the pretensioner. Also had the rear brakes apart and I have to ask the question "Why?"....
Both calipers were siezed on the slider pins. Siezed with rust in the rubber boot. This doesn't happen overnight, over month or even over year, given the amount of rust.
WHY would any service not check this? I always pull the boots back and check the motion of the slider. Siezed sliders lead to poor pedal, badly worn uneven shoes, and eventually a wrecked calipers.
So IF you are checking your brake pads, please check the slider pins, it's a 2 minute job, and a small tube of graphite grease is cheap....a lot cheaper than a calipers!
Both calipers were siezed on the slider pins. Siezed with rust in the rubber boot. This doesn't happen overnight, over month or even over year, given the amount of rust.
WHY would any service not check this? I always pull the boots back and check the motion of the slider. Siezed sliders lead to poor pedal, badly worn uneven shoes, and eventually a wrecked calipers.
So IF you are checking your brake pads, please check the slider pins, it's a 2 minute job, and a small tube of graphite grease is cheap....a lot cheaper than a calipers!
brian47
Well-Known Member
I'd agree with what's been said, but grease comes in many and various types. For use around the brakes, I'd prefer to use an extremely high temperature grease formulated for the brake jobs, especially on disc brakes which even under normal conditions can run hotter than drum brakes.
This stuff looks very interesting:-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ceramic-B...320375&hash=item3d36ca81cf:g:pncAAOSwdGFY2R05
