I do like those mounts Gary !:) BUT I would make sure that the coax was LONG enough to go to the BOTTOM of the door so that any water did NOT get in at the top !:mad:
 
Magicgrotto said:
I do like those mounts Gary !:) BUT I would make sure that the coax was LONG enough to go to the BOTTOM of the door so that any water did NOT get in at the top !:mad:
Click to expand...

D'OH. Yep, good advice there Gary, something so obvious most of us forget to either (a) mention, or (b) perform! ;)
 
We used to use VHF Radios at work on business radio licensed channels. The radios in the fleet were generally motorola GM360 units.

Some vehicles were fitted with permanently mounted GM360s on or in the dashboard, with coax cable routed out to aerials via a means of methods - usually a hole drilled in the roof but sometimes out through the bulkhead to come up on the front wing.

Others we fitted radios to as and when we needed them - particularly hired in or leased vehicles that we couldn't drill holes in. We used the same head units connected to a 12v accessory plug, with a magmount aerial.

The difference in performance was virtually non existant, either "point to point" or connecting to a mobile repeater. With a repeater running through a telescopic 30ft vehicle-mounted mast parked on Clifton Down we could get coverage over most of Bristol.

Really depends what you're going to be using the radios for - but if its just for occaisional use then a permanent fitting can be a lot of effort for very little advantage.
 
For a temporary installation, yep, no arguments there. However, I'm a little leery of 12v accessory plugs, as they can (literally) be a movable feast; a poor connection inside the socket to the plug, and it's arc city. Vibration on roads, let alone off road, has been known to unseat accessory socket/plugs before now; I'm not saying this is a certain thing to happen, but it's something to be mindful of, if you're going to be plugging it in and out on a semi-regular basis.
 
Thinking i need to order a lockable fuel cap for mine. The fuel flap can easily be popped open (the design is, frankly, crap) even when the vehicle is locked.

Never thought of it as a problem until this week. I last drove the vehicle any real distance on Thursday when i'm fairly convinced it had over 1/2 a tank of diesel. Left it in a car park overnight then picked it up on Friday and drove it to the campsite where it was all weekend - it got driven by a few different people to move trailers etc on site but never left the car park of the campsite. On Sunday I dropped it back off on a nearby street and drove the minibus home as it was full of all my kit. For various reasons it ended up being left there til yesterday. Noticed the fuel flap was open when i picked it up yesterday but that ocacisionally happens when someone slams the rear drivers side door so didnt think anything of it. Got in yesterday, started the engine and the fuel light came on. Can't help thinking some bugger's been at it with a hosepipe. I rarely let the fuel drop below 1/4 of a tank, let alone 1/8 of a tank.
 
private penguin said:
Thinking i need to order a lockable fuel cap for mine. The fuel flap can easily be popped open (the design is, frankly, crap) even when the vehicle is locked.

Never thought of it as a problem until this week. I last drove the vehicle any real distance on Thursday when i'm fairly convinced it had over 1/2 a tank of diesel. Left it in a car park overnight then picked it up on Friday and drove it to the campsite where it was all weekend - it got driven by a few different people to move trailers etc on site but never left the car park of the campsite. On Sunday I dropped it back off on a nearby street and drove the minibus home as it was full of all my kit. For various reasons it ended up being left there til yesterday. Noticed the fuel flap was open when i picked it up yesterday but that ocacisionally happens when someone slams the rear drivers side door so didnt think anything of it. Got in yesterday, started the engine and the fuel light came on. Can't help thinking some bugger's been at it with a hosepipe. I rarely let the fuel drop below 1/4 of a tank, let alone 1/8 of a tank.
Click to expand...


You could fit a door switch to the flap and wire it as part of the alarm, as it's close to the rear O/S passenger door anyway
 
Magicgrotto said:
I do like those mounts Gary !:) BUT I would make sure that the coax was LONG enough to go to the BOTTOM of the door so that any water did NOT get in at the top !:mad:
Click to expand...

agree the cable could end up being a route for the water to get inside

that's why i'm keen on running it from a roof rail mount

then across the roof and into the unused gps roof hole

seen some clamps, with rubber fitted in and outside of the roof with silicone applied in between , acting like a sandwich , so that way with it sealed correctly the water won't get in

got some glazing silicone where water would never be able to get past

or the other route

is at the end of the rail, taking it behind the rubber, behind the light , with a loop in the wire so if water ever did get that far it won't get inside

something like the pic , but with a far bigger water drop off loop

or carry on with the cable down to the bumper, there's a grommet that the rear parking sensors go into the landy , it's underneath the body , so any water can easily drip off and not inside

IMG_1011.JPG
 
private penguin said:
Thinking i need to order a lockable fuel cap for mine. The fuel flap can easily be popped open (the design is, frankly, crap) even when the vehicle is locked.

Never thought of it as a problem until this week. I last drove the vehicle any real distance on Thursday when i'm fairly convinced it had over 1/2 a tank of diesel. Left it in a car park overnight then picked it up on Friday and drove it to the campsite where it was all weekend - it got driven by a few different people to move trailers etc on site but never left the car park of the campsite. On Sunday I dropped it back off on a nearby street and drove the minibus home as it was full of all my kit. For various reasons it ended up being left there til yesterday. Noticed the fuel flap was open when i picked it up yesterday but that ocacisionally happens when someone slams the rear drivers side door so didnt think anything of it. Got in yesterday, started the engine and the fuel light came on. Can't help thinking some bugger's been at it with a hosepipe. I rarely let the fuel drop below 1/4 of a tank, let alone 1/8 of a tank.
Click to expand...

TBH, I have never thought of how easy it is to pop the fuel flap. It is a good point tho.
Just been out and took the one off my 90 which does lock and it appears to fit the D2 quite nicely. Will have to put one on the shopping list.

Cheers
 
When diesel prices first when mad we had a spate of thefts in our area, some locals caught the guy and beat the crap out of him
 
gstuart said:
agree the cable could end up being a route for the water to get inside

that's why i'm keen on running it from a roof rail mount

(snip)

or the other route
is at the end of the rail, taking it behind the rubber, behind the light , with a loop in the wire so if water ever did get that far it won't get inside
something like the pic , but with a far bigger water drop off loop
or carry on with the cable down to the bumper, there's a grommet that the rear parking sensors go into the landy , it's underneath the body , so any water can easily drip off and not inside
(snipped photo)
Click to expand...

Now that's a neat idea, although I'd go for self-adhesive cable tie mounts, as they tend to be a bit neater than gaffa tape ;) If you choose this method, leave a bend in the cable outside the cable gasket that is lower than the bottom edge of the hole, as a water guide away from it (see diagram).

cable-rain-loop.jpg
 
RogerStenning said:
Now that's a neat idea, although I'd go for self-adhesive cable tie mounts, as they tend to be a bit neater than gaffa tape ;) If you choose this method, leave a bend in the cable outside the cable gasket that is lower than the bottom edge of the hole, as a water guide away from it (see diagram).

cable-rain-loop.jpg
Click to expand...

thks, that's it, was always taught to do it like that

the wires shown in the pic all get hidden behind the rear light

even when i've installed things i.e. outside lights i put the cable lower than the hole so it can just then drop off the wire

have been surprised since having landies for 30x years in how inventive u have to be sometimes, lol

plus am my own worst nightmare as i'm so fussy , even when things won't be seen i make sure there neat and tidy
 
gstuart said:
thks, that's it, was always taught to do it like that
Click to expand...

Excellent :D Now, mechanical tool kits, you have to be taught to use properly, and strangely enough, the same applies to the electrical/electronic ones as well...! It's amazing how many people I know, who haven't got a clue about how to do electrics properly, from a well known hole in the ground (so to speak ;) )

gstuart said:
the wires shown in the pic all get hidden behind the rear light
Click to expand...

Nice :) Just life the metal carpet there, and job done, sweep it all under it ;)

gstuart said:
even when i've installed things i.e. outside lights i put the cable lower than the hole so it can just then drop off the wire
Click to expand...

Nice one :)

gstuart said:
have been surprised since having landies for 30x years in how inventive u have to be sometimes, lol

Ah, yes, Landie perfection (some work required ;) )

gstuart said:
plus am my own worst nightmare as i'm so fussy , even when things won't be seen i make sure there neat and tidy
Click to expand...

Heh, no comment (I'm the same!)
Click to expand...
[/QUOTE]
 
RogerStenning said:
Excellent :D Now, mechanical tool kits, you have to be taught to use properly, and strangely enough, the same applies to the electrical/electronic ones as well...! It's amazing how many people I know, who haven't got a clue about how to do electrics properly, from a well known hole in the ground (so to speak ;) )
Click to expand...

Its OK, this is part of the destruction manual @gstuart is using......................:p
fuse-replacement-guide-155107.jpg
 
RogerStenning said:
Excellent :D Now, mechanical tool kits, you have to be taught to use properly, and strangely enough, the same applies to the electrical/electronic ones as well...! It's amazing how many people I know, who haven't got a clue about how to do electrics properly, from a well known hole in the ground (so to speak ;) )

how very true, when i worked in customers homes i couldn't believe the bodge ups that were done

immersion heater wired up with , wait for it

bell wire, i kid u not, i was gob smacked to say the least , the guy was one of those who knew everything , so i just mentioned to his wife what an idiot her husband was, he weren't so big headed then after she ripped his head off

same with some apprentices, with not having any pride in there work, plus , one wired up a room thermostat , stripped all the outer casing off the cable so all four wires were touching every terminal

he thought that was ok

does amaze when common sense didn't kick in

always had the attitude of asking myself the question , what if , if i had to ask myself that , i wasn't happy and redone it a different way

even wires and pipes put under the floor, i made sure they were neat and tidy , all about pride
Click to expand...
 
neilly said:
Its OK, this is part of the destruction manual @gstuart is using......................:pView attachment 117592
Click to expand...
When I was an apprentice, I had to spend some time in a telephone exchange which at that time was quite a noisy place, all the switching was done by relays and electro-mechanical devices. You sort of got used to the rattle and click-clacking of the place and you kind of filtered it out.
One day a contractor was working above the equipment racks and he dropped one of those 2000 amp slow blow fuses across the main busbar feeding 50 volts to the whole exchange. There was a great flash and a bang, then the silence!
That silence was "deafening".
He managed to take out the main fuse, a 650 Amp cartridge and the one and a half amp indicating fuse across it. All you could hear after a second or so was the fuse alarm bell ringing at the other end of the building.
Funnily enough, we never saw him again.
 
Last edited:
RogerStenning said:
Congrats :)

Which one, the D1, D2, or P38? :)
Click to expand...

That throw me......I will update my profile.

The D1 is has the new ticket!!!

The P38 is at the garage waiting for timing chains to be done then hopefully back on the road. The D2 now resides with my business partner although maintenance issues still seem to be my responsibility. The new addition to the fleet is a RRC that will hopefully be back on the road shortly!!
 
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