Co-Pang-Yang
Well-Known Member
Bought a hole-saw so off to the work shop to fit my side exit 
Co-Pang-Yang
Well-Known Member
Just realised I don't get a new pair of nuts and bolts for this join.
Anyone know what size I need?
Anyone know what size I need?
neilly
Well-Known Member
Whatever fits and is in your spares jar.
But according to the drawings M8 x 50 flanged.
Cheers
Co-Pang-Yang
Well-Known Member
Seriously why welds a back box to a centre pipe??
Started doing the oil pump bolt.
Got the x-member off and was feeling pretty smug for discovering the captive nuts could be pinged off by whacking the sheared-off bolt ends - still stuck in the nuts - from underneath with a suitable sized punch and a lump hammer.
Felt less smug when I discovered the tube of RTV I thought I had was set solid, so the job has now spilled into Sunday and I'm due a stay in the doghouse.
Q1: where near Ashbourne would sell RTV on a Sunday?
Q2: RAVE says "position new gasket" - but on the block or sump? Block seems viable - I expect the dowels would hold it in position - and preferable, less chance of dislodging it while getting the sump back in position.
Oh, and the old oil pump bolt had no visible signs of thread-lock.
Got the x-member off and was feeling pretty smug for discovering the captive nuts could be pinged off by whacking the sheared-off bolt ends - still stuck in the nuts - from underneath with a suitable sized punch and a lump hammer.
Felt less smug when I discovered the tube of RTV I thought I had was set solid, so the job has now spilled into Sunday and I'm due a stay in the doghouse.
Q1: where near Ashbourne would sell RTV on a Sunday?
Q2: RAVE says "position new gasket" - but on the block or sump? Block seems viable - I expect the dowels would hold it in position - and preferable, less chance of dislodging it while getting the sump back in position.
Oh, and the old oil pump bolt had no visible signs of thread-lock.
Shimsteriom
Master Procrastinator
Replaced the intercooler hoses with new silicon ones, however, I seem to have one left over. Have I completely missed one, or does the TD5 only need 3 if the EGR has been removed?
The engine does seem to run much smoother at higher revs now, but I couldn't see any delamination of the hoses that I removed, so maybe it's just psychological.
The engine does seem to run much smoother at higher revs now, but I couldn't see any delamination of the hoses that I removed, so maybe it's just psychological.
biketeacherdave
Well-Known Member
Halfords sell rtv just don't ask the staff they know nothing just go read the labels and you will find it in easy to use gun tubes
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
There's a halfords as you head out towards Derby on the island at the bottom of the big hill
2001, 144K, tightness seemed just right but no thread lock
RTV mission to Ashbourne successful, and went with gasket-on-sump in the end
All back together and back on the road
And now, cider
private penguin
Well-Known Member
Got a bit more done on the lights install yesterday - fitted the switch panel into the blank space by the sunroof handle
First task was to take out the trim panel - bit of a faff as it is the full width of the headlining and includes the map trays
Whilst out, had a quick check that everything was dry up there.
Next task was to cut the hole and insert the switch plate
Took about 20 minutes with a dremel to get it looking neat, straight and a tight fit.
Then in go the switches.
Finally the wiring. At the moment they're only connected for their own internal lighting - will need to drop the panel down again once i've run all the wires for the lights to make the final connections
While I was playing, I also got round to connecting up the lighting to the landmeter on the dashboard so that it lights up with the headlights
First task was to take out the trim panel - bit of a faff as it is the full width of the headlining and includes the map trays
Whilst out, had a quick check that everything was dry up there.
Next task was to cut the hole and insert the switch plate
Took about 20 minutes with a dremel to get it looking neat, straight and a tight fit.
Then in go the switches.
Finally the wiring. At the moment they're only connected for their own internal lighting - will need to drop the panel down again once i've run all the wires for the lights to make the final connections
While I was playing, I also got round to connecting up the lighting to the landmeter on the dashboard so that it lights up with the headlights
looks really good mate
is it headlining week then , lol
i've still got so much to do, along with removing the passenger seat as i'm converting that to electric ,
Co-Pang-Yang
Well-Known Member
Loving your work as always Stuart, you D3 is the reason I want one lol.
Checked my snorkel and realised the pipe going from snorkel to airbox is about as useful as a chocolate fire guard when it comes to keeping water out the engine.
Gonna need to find some replacement pipework asap to sort this one out.
Checked my snorkel and realised the pipe going from snorkel to airbox is about as useful as a chocolate fire guard when it comes to keeping water out the engine.
Gonna need to find some replacement pipework asap to sort this one out.
many thks,
knew it was a project when i first bought it, but being abit ocd i'm my own worst enemy in keep finding bits to do and sort out properly , has turned into a far bigger job than i thought , but really enjoying fixing the disco up
spent ages cleaning all the panels i've currently removed , replaced all the damaged or missing clips
next job will be to clean and hoover all the areas that are now exposed , so that when the panels start going back will have a nice clean start
once everything is cleaned up with then refit the passenger seat and curtain airbags , this bit i'm dreading
did think at one time about a snorkel, but due to the extensive amount of electronics i wouldn't dream of taking it that deep, up to the sills is enough for me , lol
know there's two types, a raised air inlet and snorkel
will u have to buy another kit or be able to get just the pipe
