Naf623
Active Member
On Thursday I swapped out my leaky top hose - the bleed screw was shot, and thermostat (I've made that a habit - they always seem to fail as soon as they're refilled). Couldn't bleed the system 100% as it wouldn't get up to temperature - presumably just too cold out to manage that while stationary. But Friday I went for a drive, up to temp no problem, and topped it back up again after. All seemed well.
Saturday drove a couple of hundred miles, and lost about an inch from the level on the header tank again. A little miffed, looked around for leaks, but nothing seemed to be dripping. Topped up again for the same drive home again, stopped for food just half an hour down the motorway, and came back to a big red puddle under the driver's door. A peek underneath and it was dripping profusely from the chassis; looked like it was actually coming out of one of the holes. Could see a wet, red area on the top of the chassis looking behind the driver's side wheel.
Well we needed to get home, and had about 3l of coolant, so we set a timer to check it again in another half hour. Topped up the inch or so it had dropped, and set off. Half an hour down the road we pulled over again, opened to have a look - completely full, and no sign of anything dripping down from the chassis at all. Even the bit behind the wheel was dried up. Confused we set off again, and reset the timer. Stopped to check, and once again no sign of any leaking whatsoever.
OK, two differences we can think of:
1. The first half hour we started with the heater on for a bit and haven't had it on at all since; maybe it's only that loop that's leaking
2. The engine had a bit of time to cool down at our first stop, and we were checking just moments after stopping the other times.
Well 1. we can test, right; so once we got to half an hour from home we turned the heater on. Warmed up, no leaks in the cabin (that's what we'd get from a worn out heater matrix, right?) and no problems. Arrived home and checked the level - totally fine.
OK, 2. then. Checked it a few times across yesterday evening, and again this morning - nothing. Still completely full.
I'm really confused haha.
Saturday drove a couple of hundred miles, and lost about an inch from the level on the header tank again. A little miffed, looked around for leaks, but nothing seemed to be dripping. Topped up again for the same drive home again, stopped for food just half an hour down the motorway, and came back to a big red puddle under the driver's door. A peek underneath and it was dripping profusely from the chassis; looked like it was actually coming out of one of the holes. Could see a wet, red area on the top of the chassis looking behind the driver's side wheel.
Well we needed to get home, and had about 3l of coolant, so we set a timer to check it again in another half hour. Topped up the inch or so it had dropped, and set off. Half an hour down the road we pulled over again, opened to have a look - completely full, and no sign of anything dripping down from the chassis at all. Even the bit behind the wheel was dried up. Confused we set off again, and reset the timer. Stopped to check, and once again no sign of any leaking whatsoever.
OK, two differences we can think of:
1. The first half hour we started with the heater on for a bit and haven't had it on at all since; maybe it's only that loop that's leaking
2. The engine had a bit of time to cool down at our first stop, and we were checking just moments after stopping the other times.
Well 1. we can test, right; so once we got to half an hour from home we turned the heater on. Warmed up, no leaks in the cabin (that's what we'd get from a worn out heater matrix, right?) and no problems. Arrived home and checked the level - totally fine.
OK, 2. then. Checked it a few times across yesterday evening, and again this morning - nothing. Still completely full.
I'm really confused haha.
Replaced the brake hoses on the front n/s. Front o/s tomorrow, plus new pads. Rear disks, pads and hoses as well, if I get time... Pain in the rear, as most of the brake nuts were tight onto the lines, and had to be worked with oil before they would let go ....
Also found that the fault I had years ago, with the throttle pedal having no response was back. Reset the fault on the nanocom, and it works again... then it goes again..... Needs investigating.
Also found that the fault I had years ago, with the throttle pedal having no response was back. Reset the fault on the nanocom, and it works again... then it goes again..... Needs investigating.
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Still got the accelerator issue... 6.7 DRIVER DEMAND, SUPPLY PROBLEM.
on no pedal, Im getting:
Accel Way 1 (v) 0.878
Accel Way 2 (v) 4.146
Accel Way 3 (v) 4.638
Accel Supply (v) 2.428
Looks like I may need a new pedal. Thats what you get for leaving a car idle for 2 years.
edit. Found a comment SF made in 2015:
THROTTLE
ACCEL. WAY 1 - about 0.3 - 0.8V with the pedal released, about 4.7V with pedal to the maximum position
ACCEL. WAY 2 - about 4.7V with the pedal released, about 0.3V with pedal to the maximum position
ACCEL. WAY 3 ? this track must have values very near to the second track.(only 15P-16P engines)
ACCEL. SUPPLY ? this value must stay between 4.9 a 5.1
I seem to have two issues, low accel supply, and a discrepancy with tracks 2 and 3.
on no pedal, Im getting:
Accel Way 1 (v) 0.878
Accel Way 2 (v) 4.146
Accel Way 3 (v) 4.638
Accel Supply (v) 2.428
Looks like I may need a new pedal. Thats what you get for leaving a car idle for 2 years.
edit. Found a comment SF made in 2015:
THROTTLE
ACCEL. WAY 1 - about 0.3 - 0.8V with the pedal released, about 4.7V with pedal to the maximum position
ACCEL. WAY 2 - about 4.7V with the pedal released, about 0.3V with pedal to the maximum position
ACCEL. WAY 3 ? this track must have values very near to the second track.(only 15P-16P engines)
ACCEL. SUPPLY ? this value must stay between 4.9 a 5.1
I seem to have two issues, low accel supply, and a discrepancy with tracks 2 and 3.
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Replaced the crankshaft pulley on my lads TD5 Defender. Took about an hour, including fabricating the removal tool. Big shout out to http://www.discovery2.co.uk/CrankPulley.html
Totally stopped the "marble in a bucket" noise when the engines running....
Totally stopped the "marble in a bucket" noise when the engines running....
Replaced the o/s steering joints today, new pads, and refitted. Disco started straight up today, pedal working, and the supply voltage today was 4.99v. Still 0.5v difference between 2/3 in the first part of pressing the pedal, but they are within 0.1v of a volt on full travel.
Learnt something new... my lads TD5 defender was having starting issues, where it would just spin over, quite well, but not start...and this morning it just wouldnt crank at all.... He went out and bought a new big beast of a battery, and still the same.... At this point I had a call and rescued it, by bump starting it on a hill. He fitted a new starter and hey presto.... The hesitation to start, which I initially thought was a fuel issue has gone, and it now starts on the button. I doubted SF's story stating a bad starter motor could interfere with the ECU of a TD5.... not any more. Every day is a school day....
Took the newly acquired D2 for a spin in the dark for the first time.
Found out (bearing in mind it's apparently just had an MOT)
- Reversing lights don't work
- None of the internal (courtesy) lights work
On a slightly cooler note, I also found a sneaky fuel-pump (I assume) cut-out switch.
Found out (bearing in mind it's apparently just had an MOT)
- Reversing lights don't work
- None of the internal (courtesy) lights work
On a slightly cooler note, I also found a sneaky fuel-pump (I assume) cut-out switch.
discool
Well-Known Member
Its depending on the vehicle
From the MOT test manual “inspect all reversing lamps fitted to vehicles first used from 1 September 2009 other than quadricycles and three-wheeled vehicles.
Mine is a 2004Its depending on the vehicle
From the MOT test manual “inspect all reversing lamps fitted to vehicles first used from 1 September 2009 other than quadricycles and three-wheeled vehicles.
currymunster
Well-Known Member
Disco 1.
Put a new drivers seat diaphragm.
Cut out and replaced the two 30amp fuse holder behind the glove box for the heated windscreen (loose connection causing heat and melting the holder)
Found out why the factory fitted front spotlights weren't working and fixed it. Used some amazing crimp connectors with heat shrink already on them (wirfy from Amazon)
Put a new drivers seat diaphragm.
Cut out and replaced the two 30amp fuse holder behind the glove box for the heated windscreen (loose connection causing heat and melting the holder)
Found out why the factory fitted front spotlights weren't working and fixed it. Used some amazing crimp connectors with heat shrink already on them (wirfy from Amazon)
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Fitted the rear wiper arm, replaced the rear o/s brake disc and pads... replaced the front fogs. Dont think these cheapo ones on ebay will last long, but will get it through the mot. Then gave it a wash....
Just got to drop the tank at some stage, and weld up the rear chassis legs, and she's ready for the MOT man, and winter.....
Just got to drop the tank at some stage, and weld up the rear chassis legs, and she's ready for the MOT man, and winter.....
Well, that didn't go as planned....
Dropped the tank today, what a mare. Had to remove some of the towbar to get it out, including a bolt through the chassis which was solid and had to be cut off... Not sure how I'm going to remove it to fit a new on, as I want my tow bar back.
Once tank dropped, cut out the offending section of rot from the inner chassis rail and welded a new plate in. However, whilst grinding away, the wife came rumming into the garage, shouting .... "Is that fuel tank supposed to be on fire... " Some sparks had set light to the dregs of diesel and the pump head was alight... Need a new fuel pump quicker than I wanted to spend money on it....
Anyway, new section welded in, and I'm one step forward, and one back towards my next mot.
I have pictures but the forum won't allow me to upload a file...
Dropped the tank today, what a mare. Had to remove some of the towbar to get it out, including a bolt through the chassis which was solid and had to be cut off... Not sure how I'm going to remove it to fit a new on, as I want my tow bar back.
Once tank dropped, cut out the offending section of rot from the inner chassis rail and welded a new plate in. However, whilst grinding away, the wife came rumming into the garage, shouting .... "Is that fuel tank supposed to be on fire... " Some sparks had set light to the dregs of diesel and the pump head was alight... Need a new fuel pump quicker than I wanted to spend money on it....
Anyway, new section welded in, and I'm one step forward, and one back towards my next mot.
I have pictures but the forum won't allow me to upload a file...
Ordered a new battery for the Disco, as mine's over 4 years old, and doesnt hold charge well. I'll stick the old on on my JCB. .... £116 for the heavy duty one from GT. Ignore the web price, I have an account..
https://www.generaltraffic.co.uk/car-parts/electrical/batteries?subcategory=BATS-EL
https://www.generaltraffic.co.uk/car-parts/electrical/batteries?subcategory=BATS-EL
Rear chassis rails wire wheeled down last night and given a coating of vactan. Coat of black hammerite today. Tank support wire wheeled and given the same treatment... Found that the inadvertent fire of the fuel pump, had melted the retaining ring on the tank.... so, latest order from John Craddock is..... ESR3807 nylon retainer, ESR3806 seal, ESR3808 locking ring , and a VDO fuel pump..... Its a gift that keeps on giving..... Ordered a fuel pump retaining wrench from LRbulkheads for 16 quid.... Fuel tank goes back in tomorrow. Just got to weld up some weld nuts onto flat plates, to make up two fuel tank retaining nuts for the bolts.... The old ones were toast...
Bonus was I got the bolts out of the towbar to chassis, with some heat, penetrating oil, and a long breaker bar.... Just got to order some Dixon Bate bits now....
Bonus was I got the bolts out of the towbar to chassis, with some heat, penetrating oil, and a long breaker bar.... Just got to order some Dixon Bate bits now....
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