I started installing new rear brake calipers on my D2.
Found out the rear slide pins are shorter that the front ones. :oops:
 
Had a mate make and weld on ride height sensors on my D2 and replace both air bags. (Original brackets had been removed when chassis was repaired as previous owner had down graded to springs...) now permanently on air!
 
Removed and swapped out slabs ecu with a SRB500070 - apart from setting back to air and levelling with the nanocom it wasn’t as bad as I thought it’d be!
All running smoothly again and no nasty connection errors
 
Removed and swapped out slabs ecu with a SRB500070 - apart from setting back to air and levelling with the nanocom it wasn’t as bad as I thought it’d be!
All running smoothly again and no nasty connection errors
With the Nanocom did you change any of the SLABS unit settings? Like disabling ‘Test Status’ or setting ‘ECU Calibrated’ to “No”?
I’m asking for a friend doing the same. He is having problems swapping to a 500070 unit with air suspension.
 
With the Nanocom did you change any of the SLABS unit settings? Like disabling ‘Test Status’ or setting ‘ECU Calibrated’ to “No”?
I’m asking for a friend doing the same. He is having problems swapping to a 500070 unit with air suspension.
When I plugged it in there were no faults on the unit and it was set to coil. I uploaded the settings from my old ecu to get the air heights correct and that was about it. Luckily I didn’t have to change set anything else

what issues is your friend having?
 
Decat pipe arrived today for the TD5.... £36 including delivery...... Just waiting for the new nuts and gasket now.

Well, got the bolts off the turbo, with a little puffing, then the two off the centre flange.... pretty simple.. Then jacked up the chassis, and I still cant get the old pipe to drop out past the clutch cylinder.. What am I doing wrong !! All the bolts on the crossmember are solid, so thats not an option today. Left it on the jacks, for tomorrow...
 
Well, got the bolts off the turbo, with a little puffing, then the two off the centre flange.... pretty simple.. Then jacked up the chassis, and I still cant get the old pipe to drop out past the clutch cylinder.. What am I doing wrong !! All the bolts on the crossmember are solid, so thats not an option today. Left it on the jacks, for tomorrow...
:(:(:(
 
Ordered a packet of 20mm stainless allen bolts, and stainless flanged nuts... that cross member is coming out... one way or another...:D
 
I replaced driver's side door pin with a beefier one from CARRS4x4....
F9766F04-E09F-4636-B1A0-3B9C0CB8E58C.jpeg


Cleaned up my IM with Mothers Aluminum polish and a scotchbright pad...
E9C84845-D83E-4187-BD0C-07BFB85F8608.jpeg
 
The Disco was due in the garage last monday so went to drop it off on sunday night. Jumped in and just got a click...
Took the battery off and put it on charge. The needle didn't move. Tried the spare battery hat was charged earlier on in the week and got the same. Took it off and put it on the charger, but the needle didn't move so assumed the constant charge-drain-charge-drain-charge had killed them. So sourced a new battery from Halfords for £129.99. Went and collected it and bolted it on. Jumped in and...CLICK... OH CRAP! It's the starter not the battery.
It was being off to have a new alternator and battery fitted. I'd jumped in so many times and it wouldn't start due to a flat battery i forgot about the dicky starter...
It was £170 well spent paying my cousin to swap the bits over though, what with the rounded alternator bolt and seized viscous fan which he had to use heat to get off. He wasn't happy :D

Best thing for me was when i jumped into it last night it started first turn of the key so the alternator was the source of the electric leak!

Greased all steering ball joints and prop shafts
 

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