kermit_rr said:
Well I'm asking for a friend🫣 had a battery battery problem, went to garage and now had all sorts of issues. Been told the car is scrap (cam belt gone) and offered £300 for it!
My gut feeling is they've damaged a wire somewhere and/or are just thick or they've done something stupid.
Engine still runs so cam belt is fine. I'm trying to think of options before he goes any further
Click to expand...
I forgot to mention.. this car, like most mercs, has a chain not a belt 🙄
 
Uncovered him, lubed the bottom section of the air springs, emptied the dehumidifier, checked the fluids, tried to see if an air leak was the cause of the cruise control not working. Inconclusive, now thinking of capping off the pedal connection as have replaced the other hoses but that looks to be a serious pain to get to. If it works then I know that hose is the issue, if not I'm suspecting the set button or clock spring is likely.
Going to be using him for a 500+ mile funeral trip in a couple of weeks, be good to have the cruise working.
And if saddiq khan is going to charge me £12.50 in any of my cars to get to the funeral I might as well get maximum pollution value for the money!
 
Gave mine a good clean after all that salt on roads and changed drop links as they started to knock then went and collected a mondeo estate so that’s now the work car and the supercharged Rangie is the weekend / other half’s car now, helps keep miles down on it not using for work.
 
rich28uk said:
Gave mine a good clean after all that salt on roads and changed drop links as they started to knock then went and collected a mondeo estate so that’s now the work car and the supercharged Rangie is the weekend / other half’s car now, helps keep miles down on it not using for work.
Click to expand...
More frost on the way, at least here
 
Just swapped the relay on my dual battery setup for a voltage sensing relay and when I started it up with the boot open the suspension started to adjust itself. I thought that wasn't supposed to happen :vb-confused2:
 
kermit_rr said:
My rears seized.. pumped the pistons out a bit, cleaned, some brake grease and pushed them back. Been fine since
Click to expand...
You were lucky then.
I've had them on the bench polished and looking like new but they've still bound.
I've probably done 10 and they've all done it but a cheap set of new ones and fine so I just chuck em in the bin now.
Got to do discs all round on mine as they're a bit juddery from motorway speeds so I will just fit new rear calipers as a matter of course.
 
Wazzajnr said:
You were lucky then.
I've had them on the bench polished and looking like new but they've still bound.
I've probably done 10 and they've all done it but a cheap set of new ones and fine so I just chuck em in the bin now.
Got to do discs all round on mine as they're a bit juddery from motorway speeds so I will just fit new rear calipers as a matter of course.
Click to expand...
Are the pistons not coated? Polishing might rub that off?
 
I will also need to check if there's anything else causing poor fuel economy.
Steady run was getting 30 but this trip I've averaged 22. Seemed to do better on today's run based on milage and guage position. I will know better when I fill up on Tuesday morning when I get off the boat. No point filling up in Holland as it's significantly more expensive than the UK
 
1706472063073.jpeg
 
Wazzajnr said:
You were lucky then.
I've had them on the bench polished and looking like new but they've still bound.
I've probably done 10 and they've all done it but a cheap set of new ones and fine so I just chuck em in the bin now.
Got to do discs all round on mine as they're a bit juddery from motorway speeds so I will just fit new rear calipers as a matter of course.
Click to expand...
Not just pistons that need cleaning. Also need to clean all the corrosion and gunge that builds up in the seal grooves out before putting new seals in. Learned that 30 odd years ago on my first motorbike caliper rebuild. Well, second after the first left it dragging worse than before because I didn't know that needed doing then.
Old seals worn with gunge pressure stiff, new unworn seals with gunge needed a clamp on the piston but I didn't know better.
New seals with fully cleaned grooves, easy finger pressure on the pistons.
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
Not just pistons that need cleaning. Also need to clean all the corrosion and gunge that builds up in the seal grooves out before putting new seals in. Learned that 30 odd years ago on my first motorbike caliper rebuild. Well, second after the first left it dragging worse than before because I didn't know that needed doing then.
Old seals worn with gunge pressure stiff, new unworn seals with gunge needed a clamp on the piston but I didn't know better.
New seals with fully cleaned grooves, easy finger pressure on the pistons.
Click to expand...
Red rubber geese in the grooves helps slow the onset of further corrosion
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Range Rover L322 - not turning over
Replies
12
Views
2K
gold rover
gold rover
B
L320 range rover sport 3.0 tdv6 loosing power steering fluid
Replies
3
Views
533
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
F
1980 Range Rover 2 door v8 to 300tdi
2
Replies
20
Views
1K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
T
Non start
Replies
3
Views
717
Datatek
Datatek
T
Fan Clutch??
Replies
14
Views
799
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr