I also forgot to add 1 turbo in 20yrs isn't bad going.
Quite a few things been and being done over last couple of months. Cost a fair penny BUT most of them areusual,wear and tear , eg brakes. The others turbo, dust shields, handbrake cables, and ilk, are all "first in 20yrs". Which considering how we often berate them, the L322 in particular, for being shoddy, isn't a bad rate of wear :).
 
gold rover said:
I also forgot to add 1 turbo in 20yrs isn't bad going.
Quite a few things been and being done over last couple of months. Cost a fair penny BUT most of them areusual,wear and tear , eg brakes. The others turbo, dust shields, handbrake cables, and ilk, are all "first in 20yrs". Which considering how we often berate them, the L322 in particular, for being shoddy, isn't a bad rate of wear :).
Click to expand...

Spent a fair amount myself recently, got to be touching £1500 and that's without a new turbo kit. After 27 years I put the original back.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Spent a fair amount myself recently, got to be touching £1500 and that's without a new turbo kit. After 27 years I put the original back.
Click to expand...

I'm not adding mine up until after she's finished this round. So far the most shocking is the difficulty in obtaining, and the price of dust shields.
 
Car back together and running. Had to swap over an injector from the scrapper as it appears one of the leak off nipples was damaged at some stage.

Anyway, we finally have a working car although I have put no antifreeze in as I am waiting to see if there are anymore leaks.
 
Picked up a load of chicken wire. Going to try and squirrel proof my 15x20 workshop. Little buggers started a home inside the walls. Run around crapping everywhere and knocking stuff off the shelves. Chewed up a lot of boxes to make bedding and then finally chewed through the electrical wiring so I have no power in any outlets. Have to tear off all the outside panels to find the break. It's Man against Sqirrel. 20220903_081324.jpg
 
Gord Wedman said:
Picked up a load of chicken wire. Going to try and squirrel proof my 15x20 workshop. Little buggers started a home inside the walls. Run around crapping everywhere and knocking stuff off the shelves. Chewed up a lot of boxes to make bedding and then finally chewed through the electrical wiring so I have no power in any outlets. Have to tear off all the outside panels to find the break. It's Man against Sqirrel.View attachment 272934
Click to expand...
Nice tyres :cool:
 
fixing the side step trim on my L320 only to find that one of the brackets has corroded fairly bad and will need replacing
old step removed cleaned and had a coat of red oxide paint
and tomorrow will be a coat of black hammerite and reattach trim on with new stainless steel rivets
 
Gord Wedman said:
Picked up a load of chicken wire. Going to try and squirrel proof my 15x20 workshop. Little buggers started a home inside the walls. Run around crapping everywhere and knocking stuff off the shelves. Chewed up a lot of boxes to make bedding and then finally chewed through the electrical wiring so I have no power in any outlets. Have to tear off all the outside panels to find the break. It's Man against Sqirrel.View attachment 272934
Click to expand...

I have similar issues from woodmice and an invasive rodent called a glis-glis. I found the 13mm wire mesh from Wickes very reasonable in price, easy to cut / form and seems to keep the little sods out. Armoured cable and aluminium / steel ducting also helps.
 
Drove to the garden centre for lunch, did a small shop, went to the BILs and checked for source of a leak, probably his shower, then spent 3 hours starting topping the leylandi. Finished up with Otto's boot full of plants and filing cabinet, with chips on the way home. Only fault a blown sidelight warning. And the cruise control having packed up again. Probably another perished hose.
 
Drove it. Both the wife and kid say the engine is much quieter since I rebuilt the top half so I must have got something right.

One oddity is that on reassembly you slip a 4.61mm (180 thou) shim between the cam-locking tool and the head before tightening up the cam-spocket bolt on the end of the cam. It isn't enough to change which link of the chain it sits on and to be honest the slop is bigger than the shim amount. Also, a bit of a mystery why you would want to retard the timing when chain stretch will already have retarded it but maybe it takes up some slack in the chain? Or maybe it retards the valve timing by the same amount you adjust the pump timing for an engine that has done over 12k miles. I wouldn't mind betting not many people have done it though, even if they have checked and adjusted the FIP timing as per RAVE. I wonder if it is in the 12k mile service schedule?
 
Sidelight bulb is fine so must be a wiring issue. Perished hose fixed and cruise control now working happily again.
Found the mountings so in the next few weeks fit the running boards. And clean up and fit the wind deflectors on the windows.
Need to find a roof bar set for him or the Ford so we can transport the ladders occasionally.
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
Sidelight bulb is fine so must be a wiring issue. Perished hose fixed and cruise control now working happily again.
Found the mountings so in the next few weeks fit the running boards. And clean up and fit the wind deflectors on the windows.
Need to find a roof bar set for him or the Ford so we can transport the ladders occasionally.
Click to expand...
The side light problem on mine was corrosion in the lamp holder, not easy to see.
 
Today removed the rear driveshaft from my 2008 full size SC. It had developed a vibration which I believed could only be a driveshaft problem. Could not confirm this from under the car so decided to remove. To do this you have to remove exhaust and heat shields. Initially planned to unbolt the exhaust from the manifold. The three nuts holding exhaust in place were quite rusty and I was concerned I might break a stud or strip the threads during removal. Applied penetrating oil every day for 3 days in preparation for removal but then I noticed the service manual said it was acceptable to replace parts of the exhaust system by cutting out, fitting new part and then clapping pipes together with "band clamps" which wrap around the pipe. We'll why don't I just cut the exhaust a few inches back from the catalytic converters I thought. Discussed this with an exhaust shop and they said that was a good way to go and after I put it all back together they could insert a sleeve and weld the pipes back together. So I bought a Gear Wrench brand chain type exhaust pipe cutter and it cut through the exhaust in no time even though the package says it will not cut stainless pipe. With the exhaust and heat shields removed it as straight forward to remove the driveshaft. Turns out the rear CV joint has fallen apart. Time for a new driveshaft. Pleased I was able to do the job myself. I think the band clamps I was able to buy are only a temporary fix as they do not fit that well. LR must have better ones. A few photos:

20220904_154909.jpg 20220904_155112.jpg 20220904_155058.jpg 20220904_155931.jpg
 
Gord Wedman said:
Today removed the rear driveshaft from my 2008 full size SC. It had developed a vibration which I believed could only be a driveshaft problem. Could not confirm this from under the car so decided to remove. To do this you have to remove exhaust and heat shields. Initially planned to unbolt the exhaust from the manifold. The three nuts holding exhaust in place were quite rusty and I was concerned I might break a stud or strip the threads during removal. Applied penetrating oil every day for 3 days in preparation for removal but then I noticed the service manual said it was acceptable to replace parts of the exhaust system by cutting out, fitting new part and then clapping pipes together with "band clamps" which wrap around the pipe. We'll why don't I just cut the exhaust a few inches back from the catalytic converters I thought. Discussed this with an exhaust shop and they said that was a good way to go and after I put it all back together they could insert a sleeve and weld the pipes back together. So I bought a Gear Wrench brand chain type exhaust pipe cutter and it cut through the exhaust in no time even though the package says it will not cut stainless pipe. With the exhaust and heat shields removed it as straight forward to remove the driveshaft. Turns out the rear CV joint has fallen apart. Time for a new driveshaft. Pleased I was able to do the job myself. I think the band clamps I was able to buy are only a temporary fix as they do not fit that well. LR must have better ones. A few photos:

View attachment 273088 View attachment 273089 View attachment 273090 View attachment 273091
Click to expand...
Over the years, with many old motorcycle and some car systems, I have found a good patch repair on exhausts to be gun gum in the hole, cover with a laminated patch of at least 3 and up to 7 layers of aluminium foil smeared with more gun gum, then a top patch similarly with sections cut from the side of aluminium drinks cans and layered with gun gum. Clamped usually with a couple of jubilee clips. Might not have the structural strength for a fully cut pipe, but could be braced by adding some rods outside the patching and using extra clamps. Or making a stronger sleeve/ top cover for the repair out of heavier sheet to start with?
 
Gord Wedman said:
Today removed the rear driveshaft from my 2008 full size SC. It had developed a vibration which I believed could only be a driveshaft problem. Could not confirm this from under the car so decided to remove. To do this you have to remove exhaust and heat shields. Initially planned to unbolt the exhaust from the manifold. The three nuts holding exhaust in place were quite rusty and I was concerned I might break a stud or strip the threads during removal. Applied penetrating oil every day for 3 days in preparation for removal but then I noticed the service manual said it was acceptable to replace parts of the exhaust system by cutting out, fitting new part and then clapping pipes together with "band clamps" which wrap around the pipe. We'll why don't I just cut the exhaust a few inches back from the catalytic converters I thought. Discussed this with an exhaust shop and they said that was a good way to go and after I put it all back together they could insert a sleeve and weld the pipes back together. So I bought a Gear Wrench brand chain type exhaust pipe cutter and it cut through the exhaust in no time even though the package says it will not cut stainless pipe. With the exhaust and heat shields removed it as straight forward to remove the driveshaft. Turns out the rear CV joint has fallen apart. Time for a new driveshaft. Pleased I was able to do the job myself. I think the band clamps I was able to buy are only a temporary fix as they do not fit that well. LR must have better ones. A few photos:

View attachment 273088 View attachment 273089 View attachment 273090 View attachment 273091
Click to expand...
Looks nice and rusty under there in true LR fashion:rolleyes:
 
Just had a steady hour at the dinner table fitting new o rings and piston ring to spare EAS compressor. Had changed it in spring as it was getting a bit slow. Only just got round to looking at it now due to one thing and another. Bought it reconditioned about 4 years ago off the bay. The inside was full of bits of sealant where someone had stuck the o rings and every thing else together.. Anyway its spotless now and will put it on in the morning to try out so hopefully another spare in my spares box.:D
 
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