kermit_rr said:
If i recall, it only updated with the engine running.. not really sure what difference that makes
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I did run the engine briefly but obviously not long enough for the display to change. It makes sense that the temperature would not update instantly or the display would constantly change. I guess that an average of several readings is taken before a new temperature is displayed.
@kermit_rr I owe you a beer or three, you saved me a good bit of time and worry, the temperature does indeed update slowly once the car is on the move, it took 5 kilometres to go from minus 40 to plus 30C so all is good thanks:D:D:D
 
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Gord Wedman said:
Today we swapped them over. The hub on the car came out a little easier. Only problem was I could not get the ABS sensor out without destroying it. Why do they get stuck so solidly when they are in a copper sleeve and coated in grease?? Put it all back together with a sensor from my parts bin and no more vibration but I have ABS and Traction faults. Going to try tapping the sensor in again, clear fault and see what happens. I have 2 other sensors I can try. Going offroad this weekend so traction control would be nice.

Discovered the brake shoes on right front were badly worn, probably due to sticking pistons. Replaced all front pads but I think I will buy rebuilt calipers later this year. I see I can get Britpart, Allmakes or TRW. Any recommendations? TRW are quite a bit more. Perhaps brand new rather than reman?
Cheers,
Gordon
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All the teeth on the reluctor ring look OK? Sensor pushed in all the way?
 
kermit_rr said:
Could be a duff new sensor
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Turns out I did not tap the sensor down far enough. I could not push it in so had to use a hammer. Was a bit worried about damaging it so went lite on the tapping. Comparing to the left side I could see it was far too high. Tapped all the way down with rubber mallet, cleared code with Hawkeye Total (which said the sensor was to high) and started car. Code came back but went away as soon as I drove off. Replaced the rear brake pads along with the fronts and rotated tires front to back. A good 2 days of work.
 
Setting up a Tyro trial for Chiltern Vale Land Rover Club.

A8ED53BC-F52D-436B-819E-C71CC3B0CF09.jpeg
 
awkwardbob said:
So today a total muppet failed my old girl at an MOT test because the ABS light was on.

I pointed out that the light stays on until the vehicle is driven above 5mph and then goes out. He shrugged and said that he couldn’t do that on his rolling road so it was a fail.

I’m honestly at a complete loss for words…
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I'd take that up with the DVSA, they issue guidance on when the light ought to go out on different vehicles. Our testers take some Landies out on a road test before failing for ABS light.
 
kermit_rr said:
Shouldn't be on a rolling road anyways
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I thought some FL1s were OK on rolling roads, but still had the ABS light on until you went over a certain speed. I might be talking out my arse though, once I stray from Rangies I usually am (unless it's a rant about how **** Peugeots are)
 
jwrrc said:
I thought some FL1s were OK on rolling roads, but still had the ABS light on until you went over a certain speed. I might be talking out my arse though, once I stray from Rangies I usually am (unless it's a rant about how **** Peugeots are)
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I fort this was rr related :p
 
awkwardbob said:
Not one in every bite ? I’d call trading standards.

RR happily passed MOT carried out by competent garage. Don’t know whether it’s worth wasting my breath complaining about the Halfrauds mob
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Don't waste your time:).

An e-mail to DVSA and a bad review on their site, and pass the word amongst friends (if you have any):D.

At least you found a garage that knows that's the main thing:).

J
 
Checked the diff oil levels, checked the VCU is not locked and greased the props. Also took the EDC out for a look, I thought it might be remapped as the car has more oomph the my other P38 and it uses more fuel, but it's standard. I can only think the extra power is from getting the modulation spot on.
 
F*cker dumped me on the bump stops. Backup pump put in but couldn't clear the fault as Nanocom wasn't on me. Had to drive back on the bump-stops. Cleared faults when I got home and all good although it took ages to rise so I suspect the backup pump isn't that good ... It didn't look it!
 
Grrrrrr said:
F*cker dumped me on the bump stops. Backup pump put in but couldn't clear the fault as Nanocom wasn't on me. Had to drive back on the bump-stops. Cleared faults when I got home and all good although it took ages to rise so I suspect the backup pump isn't that good ... It didn't look it!
Click to expand...
Maybe it's feeding the leak that put you on the bump stops in the first place:rolleyes:
 
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