The garage phoned today, they have declined to work on the P38 because of corrosion concerns. I can't work on it so I am a bit miffed
I can't work on it
Ball joint and drop link as they were advisories on the mot. Nothing serious but I did want them done.Yet
What was the work they were supposed to do?
J
Where's that, front grill area?There is always something on a P38 Too hot to do concreting so I pulled the HEVAC out in the comparative cool of the barn.
For a long time now, only a couple of segments have been visible and no, it's not the back light. Easy job I thought, duff one out, spare one in. Bugger, everything works but it shows an ambient temperature of minus 40 along with the snowflake So I set to and fixed the display on the original HEVAC, now with the display fully operational, that also shows minus 40 Tomorrows job, remove and check the ambient temperature sensor.
Left side of the radiator mounting frame I think but not looked yet. Will check in RAVE tomorrow.Where's that, front grill area?
Is the display that ribbon thing I've read about that plays up. My display was bad when I got it but improved to usually perfect once the cab got warm, matrix O rings leaking were, I think the cause, not played up since.Left side of the radiator mounting frame I think but not looked yet. Will check in RAVE tomorrow.
Swivel ball joint I presume?Ball joint and drop link as they were advisories on the mot. Nothing serious but I did want them done.
Yes, it's the ribbon connection to the display. Working fine now.Is the display that ribbon thing I've read about that plays up. My display was bad when I got it but improved to usually perfect once the cab got warm, matrix O rings leaking were, I think the cause, not played up since.
I believe so, apparently they don't want to risk having stuck on their ramp if it goes wrongSwivel ball joint I presume?
Not much of a garage IMO. The swivels are time consuming especially if the ABS sensors are stuck but basically not a difficult job.I believe so, apparently they don't want to risk having stuck on their ramp if it goes wrong
Post 30642. On the page 1533 before this one.Currently in the process of replacing the right front hub/wheel bearing on my 99 P38. Noticed some vibration at 100 to 110 kph and a sort of rumbling noise. Checked front wheels and found could wiggle the right front. It seems you can buy the wheel bearing for around $200 US but the assembly is not easy to get apart. Complete hub and bearing is around $450 US. After some ppndering what to do I decided to see if I could locate a used hub and it turned out I could buy a complete front axle assembly, less brakes, from a local wrecker for $450 Cdn (350US). Yesterday my brother and I removed the done hub. Bit of a struggle to pull it out of the swivel housing. Seems to be OK, no looseness. Going to swap it over today.
If you connected the power before the sensor it will display -40 and take forever to change even one degree when it sees the sensor plugged back in again. You can't turn it back off, it only seems to adjust while it's got powerThere is always something on a P38 Too hot to do concreting so I pulled the HEVAC out in the comparative cool of the barn.
For a long time now, only a couple of segments have been visible and no, it's not the back light. Easy job I thought, duff one out, spare one in. Bugger, everything works but it shows an ambient temperature of minus 40 along with the snowflake So I set to and fixed the display on the original HEVAC, now with the display fully operational, that also shows minus 40 Tomorrows job, remove and check the ambient temperature sensor.
Currently in the process of replacing the right front hub/wheel bearing on my 99 P38. Noticed some vibration at 100 to 110 kph and a sort of rumbling noise. Checked front wheels and found could wiggle the right front. It seems you can buy the wheel bearing for around $200 US but the assembly is not easy to get apart. Complete hub and bearing is around $450 US. After some pondering what to do I decided to see if I could locate a used hub and it turned out I could buy a complete front axle assembly, less brakes, from a local wrecker for $450 Cdn (350US). Yesterday my brother and I removed the donar hub. Bit of a struggle to pull it out of the swivel housing. Had to use a gear puller as hammering was not working and risked damaging the hub. Seems to be OK, no looseness. Going to swap it over tomorrow
Could be a duff new sensorToday we swapped them over. The hub on the car came out a little easier. Only problem was I could not get the ABS sensor out without destroying it. Why do they get stuck so solidly when they are in a copper sleeve and coated in grease?? Put it all back together with a sensor from my parts bin and no more vibration but I have ABS and Traction faults. Going to try tapping the sensor in again, clear fault and see what happens. I have 2 other sensors I can try. Going offroad this weekend so traction control would be nice.
Discovered the brake shoes on right front were badly worn, probably due to sticking pistons. Replaced all front pads but I think I will buy rebuilt calipers later this year. I see I can get Britpart, Allmakes or TRW. Any recommendations? TRW are quite a bit more. Perhaps brand new rather than reman?
Cheers,
Gordon
I have Brit part calipers on both mine for over 5 years on one car, so IMO they are OK.Today we swapped them over. The hub on the car came out a little easier. Only problem was I could not get the ABS sensor out without destroying it. Why do they get stuck so solidly when they are in a copper sleeve and coated in grease?? Put it all back together with a sensor from my parts bin and no more vibration but I have ABS and Traction faults. Going to try tapping the sensor in again, clear fault and see what happens. I have 2 other sensors I can try. Going offroad this weekend so traction control would be nice.
Discovered the brake shoes on right front were badly worn, probably due to sticking pistons. Replaced all front pads but I think I will buy rebuilt calipers later this year. I see I can get Britpart, Allmakes or TRW. Any recommendations? TRW are quite a bit more. Perhaps brand new rather than reman?
Cheers,
Gordon
Thank you very much for that info, it saves my looking for a problem. I tested the display on both both HEVAC's on the bench with just power and no other connectionsIf you connected the power before the sensor it will display -40 and take forever to change even one degree when it sees the sensor plugged back in again. You can't turn it back off, it only seems to adjust while it's got power
If i recall, it only updated with the engine running.. not really sure what difference that makesThank you very much for that info, it saves my looking for a problem. I tested the display on both both HEVAC's on the bench with just power and no other connections