You need the proper tool mate,check out item number 300945326600 on the Bay.Spent half of yesterday and today replacing the front driveshaft on my 99 P38 as the U joint was worn out at the diff end causing much vibration. A real pain to get out as there is very little clearance for sockets or wrenches to get at the nuts which happened to be incredibly tight. The pain increased when I discovered the new "heavy duty" shaft I purchased on eBay from British Parts of Utah (bputah) did not fit. The flange, joint and probably the yoke at the T case end were too large. Crazy how they could say this fit 95 to 2002. Had to install a front shaft salvaged from a parts car. No easier going in than coming out. Same clearance issues. Need to buy a thin wall 9/16 socket as I would like to rebuild the outer shaft with new U joints and swap it in latter this year. Thinner socket might make the job easier.
Now I have to ship the BP shaft back at my cost not to mention the tax I paid bringing it into Canada
Similar predicament, spend a shed load on a car that will never be worth much and always cost a lot to keep on the road, or spend a shed load on another set of wheels
Spent half of yesterday and today replacing the front driveshaft on my 99 P38 as the U joint was worn out at the diff end causing much vibration. A real pain to get out as there is very little clearance for sockets or wrenches to get at the nuts which happened to be incredibly tight. The pain increased when I discovered the new "heavy duty" shaft I purchased on eBay from British Parts of Utah (bputah) did not fit. The flange, joint and probably the yoke at the T case end were too large. Crazy how they could say this fit 95 to 2002. Had to install a front shaft salvaged from a parts car. No easier going in than coming out. Same clearance issues. Need to buy a thin wall 9/16 socket as I would like to rebuild the outer shaft with new U joints and swap it in latter this year. Thinner socket might make the job easier.
Now I have to ship the BP shaft back at my cost not to mention the tax I paid bringing it into Canada
guy in work turned up today in his misses car so I had to give him a good ribbing normally drives a blue R reg 4.6 work horse. His ability to absorb banter makes me think he may be one of us? got talking and he has convinced me rebuilding the front axle/steering will be easy not long done ball joints and oil seals himself said half shafts come out easy enough and the hub nuts aren’t too bad should be okay with a press and my new 3ft exquisite breaker bar (it’s a scaffold tube)
Either I have to do quite bit this summer mainly steering, transmission & tyres or consider retiring her possibly a replacement which may cost about the same
That's quite a common failure,at least you won't have to struggle undoing it now.Doesn't rain but it pours. I thought the suspension felt a little soft in the rear driving home.
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Not going to replace the Terrafirmas with the same though. Just going for Bearmech, 35 quid a pair rather than 100 a pairThat's quite a common failure,at least you won't have to struggle undoing it now.
It's the Terrafirmas that seem to fail in that areaNot going to replace the Terrafirmas with the same though. Just going for Bearmech, 35 quid a pair rather than 100 a pair
10 years old though, so not bad.
Love your optimism Alan!That's quite a common failure,at least you won't have to struggle undoing it now.
Already ordered Delphi balljoints full set and seals. Won’t be here to receive them so will be interesting who’s hedge they end up inHis might not have been bad. It wasn't too bad on mine but it was a lot of hammering.
Well the bottom I meant think the top bolt was 17mm and I used a bit of heat and then penetrating oil on the thread, accessed from under the car,the bolt head from the wheel arch.Love your optimism Alan!
Why on earth would the half shafts be shot? CV joints maybe, but half shafts?Already ordered Delphi balljoints full set and seals. Won’t be here to receive them so will be interesting who’s hedge they end up in
How much are decent half shafts? Mine are likely shot to bits, hubs are likely original, 32? Is the hub?
busy jubilee weekend see how bad it gets
Yes, I had to change the whole BATUK fleet of Landies because they'd be done backwards. Pretty sure they should be )|( not (|)The cups go flare-out not flare-in (if that makes sense)
Plenty of penetration fluid on the top bolt can be hard to crack off initially- I put rear wheel back on to help lever against
Kerect, they look as if they should cup the rubber but that's not the case.Yes, I had to change the whole BATUK fleet of Landies because they'd be done backwards. Pretty sure they should be )|( not (|)
Nearly 30 years old and click like my back I’m sure you’re right and I’m panicking over nothing won’t know the state of anything if I don’t manage to get it apart. Ball joints are here so no turning back now. Delphi units look pretty sturdy full set + axle seals (allmakes) £67 from Maltings off-road YorkshireWhy on earth would the half shafts be shot? CV joints maybe, but half shafts?
Make sure you put the joints in the freezer before you try to fit them Jack.Nearly 30 years old and click like my back I’m sure you’re right and I’m panicking over nothing won’t know the state of anything if I don’t manage to get it apart. Ball joints are here so no turning back now. Delphi units look pretty sturdy full set + axle seals (allmakes) £67 from Maltings off-road Yorkshire
For longer than you'd think, I'd say at least overnight ideallyMake sure you put the joints in the freezer before you try to fit them Jack.
It's the Terrafirmas that seem to fail in that area