Bix said:
Following on, the pinout I am using suggests that these 3 pins are important pins. But it doesn't say what they do. Pretty sure I tested them for continuity, but as they are output only I can't imagine they'd help with the whole door open, etc issue. Unless they are input and output? Wish there was a better pinout to use.

View attachment 265237
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You can only really check those lines with a scope. #9 is a clock signal, a timing waveform. #10 indicates send or receive data. #19 is the data line sending data to the outstation from the BECM or from the outstation to the BECM. If any of those lines are not working, then you have a problem.
 
Datatek said:
You can only really check those lines with a scope. #9 is a clock signal, a timing waveform. #10 indicates send or receive data. #19 is the data line sending data to the outstation from the BECM or from the outstation to the BECM. If any of those lines are not working, then you have a problem.
Click to expand...
I thought it'd be something important. I figured best test would be to make a temp bypass loom for them (one at a time, then a combination of), to see if it solves the problem. At least then I could either isolate a fault, or rule out everything loombased from the door to the BeCM. I am hoping it winds up being one of them as it is a cheap and easy fix.
 
upload_2022-5-17_15-0-41.png
 
Bix said:
I thought it'd be something important. I figured best test would be to make a temp bypass loom for them (one at a time, then a combination of), to see if it solves the problem. At least then I could either isolate a fault, or rule out everything loombased from the door to the BeCM. I am hoping it winds up being one of them as it is a cheap and easy fix.
Click to expand...
That's a good way to go in the absence of any means of testing them.
 
Again, not mine (because I only seem to commute in Red Rover and look at Brown Rover wistfully) but I did fix the air suspension on a L322 today. New compressor and a few rounds of calibration, cleared the HDC Inactive fault that comes up when you clear the faults (smart system :rolleyes:), all done!
 
Fired him up for the first time in about 3 weeks and emptied the dehumidifier. Fired first turn, only took a couple of minutes to come from the bumpstops to motorway height. Just hope we're healthy enough to take him to the garage on Friday afternoon for them to sort the rear brakes next week. Poxy chest / sinus infection got both of us.
 
Did a little more investigation on the loom. Think we've found the culprit. Making a bypass loom to test the theory. But pins 9 and 19 do not have continuity between BeCM and A post. I must've confused what I tested previously. Glad I started mapping out the diagram.

20220519_184533.jpg


Hopefully my sanity check loom works so I can start to splice into wires. Although does anyone know why the loom goes from the A post, past the B post and I can only assume circles back somewhere back there to the BeCM? The wiring diagram doesn't make any mention of additional plugs or connectors, so I presume that means I can get away with taking a shorter route with a repair?

20220519_191836.jpg
 
Bix said:
Pins on my bypass loom were too fat. Boooo!
Going to plunder the greenie store tomorrow and get some of their expense.

Soon this mess will be gone. Soooooon!
View attachment 265425
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Got to try and sort the non functioning drivers door on my mates when we get more time.
We've established that the yellow with red trace has no voltage at the connector on the outstation but the same wire on the passenger front does. We've only got as far as finding a yellow with red trace on the front connector on the becm and that has no continuancy to the other end at the outstation.
So..a question for you if I may.
Is it the same cable or does this yellow/ red trace cable at the outstation not go to the becm.
Electrickery is not in my comfort zone:oops::D
 
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