RangeRoller dt said:
Whichever one he needs mines other one ;);)
Looks like I’m gonna have to try my hand at ball joints/shaft oil seals :oops: Bottom joint has gone and it’s fair leak. @brianp38dse whats the correct tool kit Nielsen? Also all the ball joints I see seem to be Delphi are lemforder in the too rich for me section is why I haven’t seen them?
Click to expand...
I got lemforder off either paddocks or island, maybe from both as I was buying so many bits I compared prices from both for the same stuff and ordered from whoever was cheapest. Think I saved circa £50 on a £600 spend? Balljoints didn't come with nuts iirc, watch out for that.
 
IandiscoV8 said:
OK what I am working on today -- the tailgate locking mech

Onward
Click to expand...
OK productive day, cleaned out the tailgate push switch - wd 40 and plenty of pushing, loads of rust came out, compressed air blasted and its working fully.
Finally got the engine started after key code lock out - I think due to locking and unlocking tail gate.
Fixed the unresponsive EAS with the free disc, resolved by installing and uninstalling the software - basically starting again, cleared faults and its now working.
EAS block is leaking at 2 pipes - do these have o rings and can it be repaired?
Onward - slowly
 
IandiscoV8 said:
OK productive day, cleaned out the tailgate push switch - wd 40 and plenty of pushing, loads of rust came out, compressed air blasted and its working fully.
Finally got the engine started after key code lock out - I think due to locking and unlocking tail gate.
Fixed the unresponsive EAS with the free disc, resolved by installing and uninstalling the software - basically starting again, cleared faults and its now working.
EAS block is leaking at 2 pipes - do these have o rings and can it be repaired?

EAS Repair I am scanning the Tech archive - took some finding mind!
Onward - slowly
Click to expand...
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Whichever one he needs mines other one ;);)
Looks like I’m gonna have to try my hand at ball joints/shaft oil seals :oops: Bottom joint has gone and it’s fair leak. @brianp38dse whats the correct tool kit Nielsen? Also all the ball joints I see seem to be Delphi are lemforder in the too rich for me section is why I haven’t seen them?
Click to expand...

I have not ventured that far yet i have a tool i got to do my vans ball joints i am hoping that will work if not i will be buying more tools :rolleyes:
i believe the big g clamp ones work ok just use some cv grease on the thread.
 
If you have ordered the seal kit, it comes with the O rings that fit each pipe end into the block. But NOT the brass ferrules, so try not to damage or lose them. Ruddy expensive to buy for what they are..
 
Just noticed your avatar pic.. nice.. snap..QUOTE="IandiscoV8, post: 5369432, member: 129790"]Done plenty today.
Also ......Ordered an EAS pump and block repair kit - bring it on!!

Onward[/QUOTE]
IMG_20190308_163634.jpg
 
Bagshot said:
Same here. The day she arrived after 7 years on someone's drive not moving... Aren't we the lucky ones..
Then it started...
View attachment 265192
Click to expand...

Looks like mine underneath, just ordering lots of parts!! working on the front first, drag links x2, steering damper, disc guards, pads, drop links, bushes, dampers and airbags ££££
Keeps me out of trouble :)
 
IandiscoV8 said:
OK productive day, cleaned out the tailgate push switch - wd 40 and plenty of pushing, loads of rust came out, compressed air blasted and its working fully.
Finally got the engine started after key code lock out - I think due to locking and unlocking tail gate.
Fixed the unresponsive EAS with the free disc, resolved by installing and uninstalling the software - basically starting again, cleared faults and its now working.
EAS block is leaking at 2 pipes - do these have o rings and can it be repaired?
Onward - slowly
Click to expand...
There are 2 O rings for the pipes into the block, but it may be that the pipes are not fully seated. The O rings can be replaced. Check the pipes are not scored, they cannot be cut back much as there is a raised collar on the pipe to aid insertion.
 
Flossie said:
The remote locking, mirror and window don't work on my mates 2001 diesel either. We tried outstation swop and also the latch tests, all good but no difference, nowt works. We have power at the purple? Wire at the outstation too.
We can only randomly fiddle with it because of other commitments on his time but we did checks on voltage etc readings at the passenger door connectors, which works fine, and compared to the readings at the dead drivers door. Only one cable differed, yellow with red trace iirc, power at passenger door non at the drivers. Think we found the other end of this cable at the becm and that has no continuancy through to the door. That's as far as we got over a month.
I fixed his sunroof switch pack switch though, I'm getting good at that.:D
Click to expand...

I seem to recall a similar issue where someone had put a screw through something or pinched and broken the wire under the seat that goes to the outstation.
 
MrGorsky's engine and gearbox came out at the weekend. Minor hiccup when a wheel on the engine crane bust (****ing sh*te metal. Way too thin and clearly massively under tension as it doesn't even fit together properly now the tension gas been released. There's a reason the Victorians switched to S shaped spokes for casting wheels but India China have yet to catch on!) so I had to make a new wheel. Another minor hiccup detaching the gearbox on the floor. Reasonably miserable weather yesterday so soaked through by the end of the day. At least it was warm rain.
 
Flossie said:
Incoming @Bagshot :)
Click to expand...
Grrrrrr said:
I seem to recall a similar issue where someone had put a screw through something or pinched and broken the wire under the seat that goes to the outstation.
Click to expand...
Yeah, possible. Bulk of the wires from the becm to the kick panel and onwards to the door appear to be under the sill step trim. Anywhoo, he's got other issues now, left his sunroof open all night in heavy rain, soaked his switch pack now nothing works off that:rolleyes:
 
Used P38/2 to collect a friend from the Defender specialist where he left his Defender for attention. Left rear window button in the switch pack refused to close the window, so that's one switch to fix on each P38:(, Not hard, just time consuming and I have no spare time at the moment.
 
I feel like I should've started a new thread to log this absolute ballache of a fault finding.
Unplugged the BBUS and tested the theory that the boot is unlocked as long as the drivers door is. I was right, so the earth is good.
I can't remember everything I checked the last few days, but I know everything highlighted is good. I'll go back out later and check the remainder again.

20220516_190207.jpg
 
Following on, the pinout I am using suggests that these 3 pins are important pins. But it doesn't say what they do. Pretty sure I tested them for continuity, but as they are output only I can't imagine they'd help with the whole door open, etc issue. Unless they are input and output? Wish there was a better pinout to use.

20220516_192415.jpg
 
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