Damm . . .Aspirator sensor seems to be overheating and reads 49degC in Nanocom. Consequently the HEVAC blasts out cold air on all but hottest manual setting. Tried blasting the aspirator with compressed air, but didn't help. Felt the back of the fan motor & it's definitely really hot.

Why do these things always happen in winter ?

I swore I'd messed mine up. Reassembled scrapper this afternoon and it is as bad as mine at blowing but I never touched any of the heater box or vents on the scrapper, airflow is just pitiful.

On an unrelated note, why is that glove just such a total ****er to get aligned properly?!
 
Tell me more about your dual battery set up... The How's, whys and what's?

I made the mistake of fitting a 920amp battery so changed it after 18months for the MF31-1000 and used the 920amp as a second battery.
I've taken a feed from the main cable in the rear fuse box via a ignition switched relay to the solar panel charge controller, then to the battery.
3D printed a new panel to house some connections from the second battery. And got some long jump leads just incase it needs a jump start.

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Are you using the charge controller as a sort of split charge controller then?

What was your reasoning for a second battery?

I'm planning to take mine to Spain next year (usually take my A4) however with the bigger car being the RR, I'll be wanting to take a fridge/freezer/something to keep the dog food frozen (and various other things).
 
Are you using the charge controller as a sort of split charge controller then?

What was your reasoning for a second battery?

I'm planning to take mine to Spain next year (usually take my A4) however with the bigger car being the RR, I'll be wanting to take a fridge/freezer/something to keep the dog food frozen (and various other things).

Charge controller is just to limit the current draw down the 40amp cable to 20amp. And stop the main battery discharging the second one.
Reasoning for a second battery was partly cos I ended up with a spare battery, and to run the electric cool box at the beach.
 
Charge controller is just to limit the current draw down the 40amp cable to 20amp. And stop the main battery discharging the second one.
Reasoning for a second battery was partly cos I ended up with a spare battery, and to run the electric cool box at the beach.
I didn't think solar charge controllers limited current draw in any way but were only rated for a particular ampage?
 
I didn't think solar charge controllers limited current draw in any way but were only rated for a particular ampage?

This is the spec they quote but I've put a 20amp fuse in line just in case. :)
Dual mosfet Reverse current protection, low heat production. Build-in short-circuit protection, open-circuit protection, reverse protection, over-load protection,
 
It depends on what you want to spend but this system connects to a solar panel as well I’ve wanted
 

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I made the mistake of fitting a 920amp battery so changed it after 18months for the MF31-1000 and used the 920amp as a second battery.
I've taken a feed from the main cable in the rear fuse box via a ignition switched relay to the solar panel charge controller, then to the battery.
3D printed a new panel to house some connections from the second battery. And got some long jump leads just incase it needs a jump start.

View attachment 254069

View attachment 254070
where did you manage to fit the 2nd battery?
 

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