Mark Piercy said:
What are your findings inspector gadget? ;)
Click to expand...

being it's a potentiometer used as a potential divider. The actual resistance is pretty irrelevant, however it's the difference between one reading at one end of the scale and the other.
the resistance of the track is around 2 kOhms, so that is what I should of measured between the end two contacts. Between one of the end ones and the middle, at one end of the travel, I should of ben seeing a low figure (200 Ohms), progressively rising as the sensor is moved through the travel up to close to 2 kOhms.

Ideally you should see 0 Ohms or very low at one end of the travel and almost the same as the full resistance of the track at the other end

Mine is 2.45 kOhms at one end and 1.18kOhms however if the arms is moved the resistance fluctuates between 1.18 and 0.68 kOhms

It also went open circuit at around half way through its travel.....

So to sum up Mark, me old mate...

It's right fúked. ;)
 
IMG_20201013_154241.jpg
IMG_20201013_154236.jpg

Yesterday..
IMG_20201014_093205.jpg
hauling stone for the new driveway:cool:
Man she luvs it :cool:
 
Henry_b said:
being it's a potentiometer used as a potential divider. The actual resistance is pretty irrelevant, however it's the difference between one reading at one end of the scale and the other.
the resistance of the track is around 2 kOhms, so that is what I should of measured between the end two contacts. Between one of the end ones and the middle, at one end of the travel, I should of ben seeing a low figure (200 Ohms), progressively rising as the sensor is moved through the travel up to close to 2 kOhms.

Ideally you should see 0 Ohms or very low at one end of the travel and almost the same as the full resistance of the track at the other end

Mine is 2.45 kOhms at one end and 1.18kOhms however if the arms is moved the resistance fluctuates between 1.18 and 0.68 kOhms

It also went open circuit at around half way through its travel.....

So to sum up Mark, me old mate...

It's right fúked. ;)
Click to expand...
Bingo, you can this on a Nanocom. The reading will twitch at a certain level and the computer tries to follow the changes in its docile fashion. Hence the compressor running, cutting out and then running again. This is confirmed with the silencer removed from the EAS block. As you slowly sweep the sensor arm the reading can jump from ex, 849 to 901 then back to 850 and so on as the resistance climbs. Dead spots and worn tracks. If they are original it's usually around the road height I. E. Arm 90°to the sensor body. You have your man Sherlock....
 
Mark Piercy said:
View attachment 221199 View attachment 221200
Yesterday..
View attachment 221201 hauling stone for the new driveway:cool:
Man she luvs it :cool:
Click to expand...

Just did my ball joints myself too. Seems like the toughest part of this job is aligning the hub.(without the tool of course). The slightest misalignment and the axle seal weeps oil. The margin of error is probably less than half a mm. Yeah that sucks..

Good work and good luck

And...you know theres supposed to be a car attached to that axle right..:p
 
P38Rover said:
Just did my ball joints myself too. Seems like the toughest part of this job is aligning the hub.(without the tool of course). The slightest misalignment and the axle seal weeps oil. The margin of error is probably less than half a mm. Yeah that sucks..

Good work and good luck

And...you know theres supposed to be a car attached to that axle right..:p
Click to expand...
IMG_20201007_191650.jpg
that one? If the seals don't leak before you change the joints, you don't touch the adjustable coller underneath... Otherwise there was a tool made for the realignment of the hub....
 
Tricky of York said:
Love the use of household items on the kitchen table, Mrs Tricky doesn’t like it but now I have supporting evidence that it’s the only way to keep these cars going.
Tricky.
Click to expand...

My old man is the only one at home along with my brother and sisters, they don't mind the mess ;)

I've pushed my luck with cylinder heads in the dishwasher ;)

But I havent lost my kitchen rights yet ;)
 
Out today for a run up and down the M5 for work and I note the fuel gauge hasn't moved after around 60mi thats odd i thought!!

I happened to glance over to my LPG indictor and it had switched over "unbeknown to me" a few miles back...

One thing I should stress is the LPG system hasn't worked in over 2 yrs It stopped working just after I bought the car!!

Don't know why it has decided to work now, It does run superb on the stuff though, you can balance a coin on the intake manifold.

Gotta start buying LPG now,

Hopefully it keeps working! ;)
 
backinblack said:
One of my t-shirts got binned a few years ago cos it was "old", yes dear I know it was old because I got it at an Iron Maiden tour in 1980 :mad: luckily she didn't spot the other one I bought from the same tour.
Click to expand...
I had to give up a faith no more t-shirt from the 90's.....
 
Mark Piercy said:
View attachment 221204 that one? If the seals don't leak before you change the joints, you don't touch the adjustable coller underneath... Otherwise there was a tool made for the realignment of the hub....
Click to expand...

Yup don’t touch that swivel nut!!! I only realized this AFTER, I got real intrigued about how it works and I started playing with it.. completely lost it’s zero.. had to start from scratch...

oh well..you never forget the lessons you learn the hard way..And I won’t be forgetting this one
 
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