Datatek
Well-Known Member
Send them to me, I can spend them no problemKeep finding Spanish 10 cent coins
Looks like she has spent some of her time in spain
Every little helps.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
Send them to me, I can spend them no problem
Aye Datatek i happily would
But I think the P&P would come to more than whats the 10 euro/cent Coin is worth
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Not in bulk, they are not heavyAye Datatek i happily would
But I think the P&P would come to more than whats the 10 euro/cent Coin is worth
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
OK thanksI'll send them individually
Will improve my pension no end.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
frog hopper
Well-Known Member
To be fair to the tester he did say that might make enough of a difference, after your comment as well I think it must be worth trying, I did have a fluid change on my to-do list anyway.
Grrrr how do I check for the UJ's? They didn't feel loose. Do you give them a shake & rattle test? I have greased them all in the last 2 weeks. I did however have to grind the grease gun nozzle flat on both sides so it fitted into the splines on the UJ's.
This all started after the rear shocks I bought came with slightly the wrong sized nyloc nuts (which I didn't know) and I hit a speed bump on my road and it went BANG! and ripped the nut off the bottom of the N/S shock which then disappeared up into the chassis. Anyway the supplier gave me new shocks but this rattle is now driving me nuts.
PS: It's not the exhaust or cats - I've shaken and tapped with a rubber mallet
This all started after the rear shocks I bought came with slightly the wrong sized nyloc nuts (which I didn't know) and I hit a speed bump on my road and it went BANG! and ripped the nut off the bottom of the N/S shock which then disappeared up into the chassis. Anyway the supplier gave me new shocks but this rattle is now driving me nuts.
PS: It's not the exhaust or cats - I've shaken and tapped with a rubber mallet
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tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Get longer grease nipples
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
gold rover
Well-Known Member
Went to the supermarket and was approached by a lovely old chap in his 80s, who just wanted to tell me what a lovely vehicle I had. We got chatting and he had been a truck driver , until forced retirement by his company at 63 He loves Range Rovers, although couldn't afford to run one and now has a Mobility car , that he is quite pleased with. I would have spoken with him even longer but his poor wife was having to lean against their car due to stability issues.
So nice to meet nice people.
He loves Range Rovers, although couldn't afford to run one and now has a Mobility car , that he is quite pleased with. I would have spoken with him even longer but his poor wife was having to lean against their car due to stability issues.So nice to meet nice people.
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Tricky of York
Well-Known Member
Hi all,
Black Beauty, as she will be called this week, passed her MoT first time with just the usual advisories, "signs of age" for just about every visible rubber bush. At some point I'll have to get them changed but for now there's no knocking noises and the laser tracking is spot on so the tyres are safe. At £200 a corner they are probably the most at risk item on the car. I think it helped that all the rear brake pipes were changed in July after spilling what appeared as pints of fluid over the drive. Oh yes and new rear discs and pads as they were near the mark. Without these done it may have been a different story. My rule of thumb is a car costs at least £1000 a year to maintain, with the occasional £2500 in for good measure. That said I think the RR is definitely worth the cash.
Tricky.
Black Beauty, as she will be called this week, passed her MoT first time with just the usual advisories, "signs of age" for just about every visible rubber bush. At some point I'll have to get them changed but for now there's no knocking noises and the laser tracking is spot on so the tyres are safe. At £200 a corner they are probably the most at risk item on the car. I think it helped that all the rear brake pipes were changed in July after spilling what appeared as pints of fluid over the drive. Oh yes and new rear discs and pads as they were near the mark. Without these done it may have been a different story. My rule of thumb is a car costs at least £1000 a year to maintain, with the occasional £2500 in for good measure. That said I think the RR is definitely worth the cash.
Tricky.
ovalandrover
Well-Known Member
Today I put my RR on the ferry from Dunkirk to Dover and drove it back to its winter storage. I left the UK about 7 weeks ago and drove to Copenhagen where i put it ini car park for 2 weeks while we flew to Greenland where we did a west coast trip on the ferry stopping off at villages on the way and veiwing icebergs and glaciers and to top it off saw a magnificent display of the Aurora Borealis (northern lights) . On the way to Copenhagen we visited friends in Germany and one rear tyre got delaminated and bulged out so put on spare and checked the others and another looked like going the same way so I went and ordered 4 new cooper STs and as they were not in stock I had them fitted after the Greenland trip.While in Greenland I broke one of my teeth on a bit of dried cod so when we got back and after the tyres were fitted booked myself into a dental surgery in Krakow and had some major dental work done which took a week and it was also about half the price of the UK, The next problem that i encountered was the 12 v kettle packed up so could not boil water for tea while going so had to stop and boil it on the gas stove,
all in all there was no real problems with the car in the 3700 miles ,and before that i did about 2000 miles up to Shetland and back with only the air compressor packing up,
later on this month we go back to Australia where i have my Discovery 3 ,and wont be back to the UK till may next year.
all in all there was no real problems with the car in the 3700 miles ,and before that i did about 2000 miles up to Shetland and back with only the air compressor packing up,
later on this month we go back to Australia where i have my Discovery 3 ,and wont be back to the UK till may next year.
You need the drivetrain loose. For rear prop get a rear wheel off the ground and get the stands in for safety. Get underneath and shake, twist and rattle that prop shaft. There should be no movement at all in the joint. There's a link to a YouTube video in my Hardy-Spicer thread from a few months ago. Then the same for the front but with a front wheel in the air. Might as well check the viscous coupling while you are doing it. Viscous should turn very slowly with about 70nm on the Torque wrench.
Grease gun. You sometimes have to turn the prop to get in at the right angle. 3 nipples per prop.
ovalandrover
Well-Known Member
On my diesel auto i have a rubber bungy type uj on front of rear prop so only 2 nipples on the rear prop
