Rear discs and pads changed. Be aware there are 2 lots of rear discs showing on the Eurocarparts site. I got the wrong ones! The ones I received had 10mm holes for the 5/8" wheel studs! So, back to the shop to exchange for the other ones. It took longer to source and exchange the damn parts than it did to fit them!

The wrong part number ends 1A. The right part number ends 3A. I'll dig out the full number when I find the receipt.
 
Rear discs and pads changed. Be aware there are 2 lots of rear discs showing on the Eurocarparts site. I got the wrong ones! The ones I received had 10mm holes for the 5/8" wheel studs! So, back to the shop to exchange for the other ones. It took longer to source and exchange the damn parts than it did to fit them!

The wrong part number ends 1A. The right part number ends 3A. I'll dig out the full number when I find the receipt.
Sounds about par for Euro car parts. My son in law has stopped using them, always sending out the wrong parts, no fun if you have a ramp blocked all day while their van runs back and forth swapping parts.
 
Rear discs and pads changed. Be aware there are 2 lots of rear discs showing on the Eurocarparts site. I got the wrong ones! The ones I received had 10mm holes for the 5/8" wheel studs! So, back to the shop to exchange for the other ones. It took longer to source and exchange the damn parts than it did to fit them!

The wrong part number ends 1A. The right part number ends 3A. I'll dig out the full number when I find the receipt.
For over 2yrs I had battery issues.My woes with battery constantly being flat and needing exchanged on warranty several times, was finally found to be due to Eurocarparts. They were told exactly which vehicle it was each time. On the last occasion, they sent a battery and then about an hour after delivery, someone phoned the garage, to tell them the wrong one had been sent. When the correct one arrived it was clear that for all that time, even when sending batteries back for constantly going flat, they had been sending the wrong battery.
They're now sitting side by side with Britpart, at the bottom of the list of who to get parts from.
 
Replaced the ball joint on the drop arm today, actually thats a lie as I replaced the joint on a spare drop arm and swapped them over. Used the britpart repair tool and must say it made the job so easy, used a small two leg puller to compress the spring to get the circlip back on. Next time I need to do it I shall do the job in place.
So flushed with success I thought I'd check the tracking, for some reason I had a look in the manuel and saw the tracking should be toe out by 1.5 to 2.5mm, I had thought it should be neutral as on my 90 !! anyway set tracking to 2.0mm, have to see how she drives now.
MOT (control technique) on friday afternoon, so backed off the smoke screw on the DIP by 180 degrees ready.
 
Finally finished the full service today, after stupidly filling both diffs with ATF last night as I was getting tired. Now full of gear oil and Lucas treacle. Now that the new shocks and airbags have bedded in it drives better than it ever did! I park on my drive and hit the "get up there!" button and it jumps to full height now. Happy camper indeed.
To do:
  • Find the bloody metallic rattles underneath at the back. It's not the wheel well heatshield - I've fixed that
  • Report that foreign truck for firing a stone chip on the motorway and chipping my heated windscreen (NS)
  • HEVAC flaps that keep sticking (NS)
  • Headliner
  • hi/low transfer not changing at standstill and no cog lights on the dash - very low priority right now. It changes on the move
 
To do:
  • Find the bloody metallic rattles underneath at the back. It's not the wheel well heatshield - I've fixed that

Exhaust baffles loose? or the mass-damper cable? Or even worse, the prop UJs?
 
just got the 2018 revised Range Rover 2nd generation the complete story book by James taylor.

Quite an interesting read, however they've forgotten to include Monte Carlo Blue in the colour charts.. ;)
 
Fitted the front exhaust Y pipes and installed a new lambda probe because I managed to roger the connector block on one somehow - have done rear brake pipes already so it's off to the MOT station on Saturday for a revisit.

Have decided to sell the car now as have little time to apply to it - it's got one or two issues but it scrubs up reasonably well and deserves a better owner than me (although I have spent quite a lot of money on it in the last five years cosseting it).
I shall put an ad on this site within the next month or so.
 
After changing the drop arm ball joint yesterday had the thought that I had changed the whole arm recently. Checked my service log and lo and behold I had fitted a complete new Britpart drop arm 7000 Kms ago. :eek::oops::mad::mad:
It was a G suffix part I'm sure, but then again you might have guessed memory is now a distant err memory for me. Thats why I tend to write down what I do to each of my vehicles as and when I do it.
Anyway the Britpart tool worked as it should so that was a result. And I recommend it.
 
Feckin useless pile of yellow snotgobbling sh!te failed her test today. :mad::(:mad::(:mad:
Boge self levelling unit weak and probably failed.
Rear brakes not quite up to std, tester did point out disks and pads were fine.

I assume I can just dump the SLU and fit new coils and shocks on the rear.
Rear brake problem - could that be the pressure reduction unit starting to play up? - not too dear to replace anyway and a good excuse to renew the fluid anyway.

To be fair I did think the arse end was starting to sag a bit.

No other advisories, tester said everything else was really good, so not such a bad result after all, I was more worried about the emissions though that was well within spec. Not bad for a 30 year old.
 
Feckin useless pile of yellow snotgobbling sh!te failed her test today. :mad::(:mad::(:mad:
Boge self levelling unit weak and probably failed.
Rear brakes not quite up to std, tester did point out disks and pads were fine.

I assume I can just dump the SLU and fit new coils and shocks on the rear.
Rear brake problem - could that be the pressure reduction unit starting to play up? - not too dear to replace anyway and a good excuse to renew the fluid anyway.

To be fair I did think the arse end was starting to sag a bit.

No other advisories, tester said everything else was really good, so not such a bad result after all, I was more worried about the emissions though that was well within spec. Not bad for a 30 year old.
Old brake fluid will produce weak brakes as I found recently on my MR2.
 

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