Cheers Grrrrrr, I have not got Rave handy at the moment. is there a bleeding routine I should be following?

The one in RAVE!

I tend to use a Gunson Easibleed kit to push a load of fresh fluid through the modulator before I start and then just follow RAVE to the letter. Again, I tend to count 10 pumps with no bubbles at all before deciding all air is out. No need to open the bleed nut all the way, just crack it so fluid starts flowing.

Top up the reservoir every time. If it drops too low you'll start all over again.
 
@Grrrrrr - Sorry, can you point me in the direction of the photos of your replacement brake pipes?

Er, Brianp38dse posted them on here. Must have been a few weeks ago now. Possibly in this thread ... Or, now I come to think on it, I may have made a new thread on replacing the brake lines because I was worried others might be going around in death traps.
 
Reading this with interest as I'm doing both front calipers this weekend.

A bike inner-tube valve held in the hole where the banjo goes will allow you to pump the pistons out. Put some wood in so they don't pop out completely. Or you can do it on the car before disconnecting the pipe. Just don't go too far!

Be really careful pushing the pistons back in. A little bit of red rubber-grease on the new seals can help. Use fingers/thumbs and ease back, rest, ease a bit, rest until back in all the way. Test afterwards to make sure they move in and out freely before you refit.
 
They do take bit of bleeding compared to usual vehicles. Just keep pumping it through, if you get bubbles you are at the right spot. On Manual gearbox clutch also runs off brake fluid reservoir so that may need bleed too (do not squeeze the slave cylinder)
 
A bike inner-tube valve held in the hole where the banjo goes will allow you to pump the pistons out. Put some wood in so they don't pop out completely. Or you can do it on the car before disconnecting the pipe. Just don't go too far!

Be really careful pushing the pistons back in. A little bit of red rubber-grease on the new seals can help. Use fingers/thumbs and ease back, rest, ease a bit, rest until back in all the way. Test afterwards to make sure they move in and out freely before you refit.
I’d follow @Grrrrrr s advice. I did not do any of that and now I need to back do it properly!
 
Did an oil 'n' filter change yesterday, seems we have managed to sort it enough so the oil now stays inside the engine as the sump now has some rusty bits!!!!!!

This car has been standing for a while?
 
Play day fixing broken bits of plastic, replaced the tailgate seal with the one from my scrapper after cleaning it and cleaning the the metal work. Found that the water leak is due to water getting into the seal mounting groove at the top and running down inside the seal into the spare wheel well.
Replaced the aircon belt and now have the aircon working again,just in time as it got close to 30C today:D
 

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