How long does it take in reality to check and re-time my timing chains? When I tried to undo the FIP nut I didn't have the locking pin in place on the flywheel. It went backwards so now I'm concerned it's timing re-set time. It was blindingly obvious after I did it. I did have the RAVE print out and it's either not on it or I just didn't see it.
Live and learn.

I have the car running now at 750rpm and 5.5mg/str but there is metallic clattering on and off from the bottom end (as I'm sat behind the wheel) and I've got white smoke, but the metallic noise is causing me concern.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
There was nothing on mine just a click. When I pulled it out and ran it on j.leads off the P38 on the floor it did go a little. Now goes like stink and not used anything new. You have to take it off either way so may as well try, if it works just send new one back.
Click to expand...

Had it on and off 3 times last night and hooked up to a spare battery. Not even a click. It was too hot to hold when I first tried to take it off. £30 isn't bad. Might be able to source a solenoid. The motor isn't jammed so might work.
 
Mukiwa said:
How long does it take in reality to check and re-time my timing chains? When I tried to undo the FIP nut I didn't have the locking pin in place on the flywheel. It went backwards so now I'm concerned it's timing re-set time. It was blindingly obvious after I did it. I did have the RAVE print out and it's either not on it or I just didn't see it.
Live and learn.

I have the car running now at 750rpm and 5.5mg/str but there is metallic clattering on and off from the bottom end (as I'm sat behind the wheel) and I've got white smoke, but the metallic noise is causing me concern.
Click to expand...

Oh feck. We need the master, @wammers

I wouldn't run it until the guru has spoken. Front cover off so reasonably major surgery although I believe the head doesn't have to be touched. Never done it myself though.
 
Battery back on, having been off for 3 months! Had to put the eka code in and sort the central locking and key sync but no issues!
Battery isn't coming off again, without jumpers attached first
 
New shinys J?

- No, leftover floor paint (free) :)

Will it work - ask me in a year or so. Looks nice, more unique than all black suits it okay. What you think?
667EC2E8-14DE-48E8-B5BA-8124EE69B64C.jpeg C5B9723B-F55B-4EA6-A6CB-EF1B865D8F1C.jpeg 630813CC-C9F1-4DB2-9844-CCF1218FF2E6.jpeg
So engine oil dropped, flushed, renewed plus clean oil filter. New UJ on front diff, few parts painted pretty, brakes cleaned up they are much better than when it had been standing but all the crap had choked them up and dirtied wheels no end. Bout 2kilos of dirt less under belly

Test drive - Engine and transmission noticeably smoother, the tapping sound from cyl1 is quieter, little more power from engine - substantially more power put down from 3Krpm on particularly front wheels, pulls off a lot better from standstill no delay from Shaft play and

All this started off when Tomcat convinced me to change fuel filter - still new in box :confused:
 
RangeRoller dt said:
New shinys J?

- No, leftover floor paint (free) :)

Will it work - ask me in a year or so. Looks nice, more unique than all black suits it okay. What you think?
View attachment 178179 View attachment 178181 View attachment 178180
So engine oil dropped, flushed, renewed plus clean oil filter. New UJ on front diff, few parts painted pretty, brakes cleaned up they are much better than when it had been standing but all the crap had choked them up and dirtied wheels no end. Bout 2kilos of dirt less under belly

Test drive - Engine and transmission noticeably smoother, the tapping sound from cyl1 is quieter, little more power from engine - substantially more power put down from 3Krpm on particularly front wheels, pulls off a lot better from standstill no delay from Shaft play and

All this started off when Tomcat convinced me to change fuel filter - still new in box :confused:[/QUOTE
Change the filter, it may run even better;):D
Click to expand...
 
Maybe jumped tooth on crank sprocket, how near to engine did you need to go with pump to get 0.9 mm? Doing chains and sprockets is an easy but pain in the arse job. Well for me at least. Lock it at TDC number one firing and look where the camshaft is. Cams should be flat across top. If they are not don't run it until it has been sorted. Just retiming cam is not good enough. If you have jumped a tooth just undoing pump nut, sprocket is toast and needs replacing..
 
Last edited:
RangeRoller dt said:
New shinys J?

- No, leftover floor paint (free) :)

Will it work - ask me in a year or so. Looks nice, more unique than all black suits it okay. What you think?
View attachment 178179 View attachment 178181 View attachment 178180
So engine oil dropped, flushed, renewed plus clean oil filter. New UJ on front diff, few parts painted pretty, brakes cleaned up they are much better than when it had been standing but all the crap had choked them up and dirtied wheels no end. Bout 2kilos of dirt less under belly

Test drive - Engine and transmission noticeably smoother, the tapping sound from cyl1 is quieter, little more power from engine - substantially more power put down from 3Krpm on particularly front wheels, pulls off a lot better from standstill no delay from Shaft play and

All this started off when Tomcat convinced me to change fuel filter - still new in box :confused:
Click to expand...

Looks good!
 
wammers said:
Maybe jumped tooth on crank sprocket, how near to engine did you need to go with pump to get 0.9 mm? Doing chains and sprockets is an easy but pain in the arse job. Well for me at least. Lock it at TDC number one firing and look where the camshaft is. Cams should be flat across top. If they are not don't run it until it has been sorted. Just retiming cam is not good enough. If you have jumped a tooth just undoing pump nut, sprocket is toast and needs replacing..
Click to expand...

Didn't move much at all. 0 at BDC and 9.2 at TDC on the DTI. Once I locked off the flywheel it was about 0.97.
It was running roughly / hunting until I started to tap the middle section around to get it to run smoothly. I have got it running at 750rpm it's just that it's smokey. I refilled the coolant as well.
I haven't had the rocker cover off yet as I've been working so can't see any cam except the first one
 
Very nearly torched it.

Started the work on stripping down the hubs so I can replace my front diff, started drivers side and it was easy as anything, come to passenger side and the ABS sensor explodes on me. Now I am stuck until tomorrow where I have to ring every parts place around Hounslow seeing if one by chance holds the ABS sensor. If not, I have an awkward conversation with the boss about why I need to leave the bus on the shop floor during an inspection of the workshop. Why does nothing ever go to plan?
 
@Bix I feel your pain, started taking my hub off to replace cv boot, ABS sensor stuck tight so that's where it's staying. Off shopping tomorrow for a bigger ball joint splitter for the one that wont split :mad:

Also found my next job, one knackered bush :mad::mad:

Tried putting some pic's up but that didn't work either :mad::mad::mad:
 
Knackered bush

bush.jpg



Not much grease left

CV joint.jpg
 

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backinblack said:
@Bix I feel your pain, started taking my hub off to replace cv boot, ABS sensor stuck tight so that's where it's staying. Off shopping tomorrow for a bigger ball joint splitter for the one that wont split :mad:

Also found my next job, one knackered bush :mad::mad:

Tried putting some pic's up but that didn't work either :mad::mad::mad:
Click to expand...
Yeah, in hindsight I'd have split the hub and left the sensor alone. But I was so confident at how easily they come out I thanks to the first, a quick nip with my mole grips and kaboom.

Ah well, nothing ventured nothing gained. I can finish the diff today and then just hope somewhere has the part.

Also, a trick to pop a ballpoint, strike the metal work where the BJ stud goes through with a hammer. One or two good hits and it'll pop straight off. By the book you shouldn't do it, but that assumes your parts are made of toffee, or you miss and hit something important.
 
Bix said:
Yeah, in hindsight I'd have split the hub and left the sensor alone. But I was so confident at how easily they come out I thanks to the first, a quick nip with my mole grips and kaboom.

Ah well, nothing ventured nothing gained. I can finish the diff today and then just hope somewhere has the part.

Also, a trick to pop a ballpoint, strike the metal work where the BJ stud goes through with a hammer. One or two good hits and it'll pop straight off. By the book you shouldn't do it, but that assumes your parts are made of toffee, or you miss and hit something important.
Click to expand...
When I rebuilt my hubs after replacing the ball joints,I elongated the hole in the dust shield so the sensor can stay in place if I ever had to strip it down again which I did not so long ago to replace the diff.;):D
 
New steering damper, anti roll bushes and links, air filter, pollen filter, cruise control vacuum pipes replaced, locking wheel nuts replaced, wheel nut set put on (had some 28mm some 27mm??), Bolt drilled out in exhaust and replaced to stop really bad blowing, new steering box, unceased rear offside caliper. Bought a P38 the other day and it was sat idle for months and needed some serious tlc. On 85k on the clock and the engine is mint, nice easy fixes so either back on autotrader... Or I might just keep this one.
 
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