My manager of domestic affairs has booked a week in Cornwall and I need to know the odds on it lasting a whole week and 1000 miles :D
 
Static timing is good now, not so bad really, just vvvvv time consuming. Ok finally worked out what 0.9mm lift was. Not 9.0mm that's for sure. Anyway reassembled now and the car starts. Hotfix still fitted so it runs ok until the timer cuts out then about 5 seconds later so does the engine. I think it's time to dial in the mg/str and fuelling now that I have the static timing done. Can't do it tonight don't want to annoy my very accomodating neighbours. :D

PS. Unless you are a spanner hand by trade everything I've read or watched has assumed level of knowledge for static timing, FIP gasket / o-ring replacement etc. I finally cobbled it all together (thanks Wammer's, as usual!) and it helps if you have ALL the tools, even the ones you don't know about until you go "errrrrrr oh crap!" :confused::cool: such as 17mm sump removal tool to get that pulley off. We live and learn. At least I've done the other fuelling bit before.
 
Just been through the rave manual and 420nm is highest torque I can find on a TD6 so being a tight wad I have ordered a sub £100 407nm one off amazon. Close enough I think.

Oh and a 3/4 to 1/2 inch adaptor.

Don't think the hub nut will miss 11 proper torques. :D:D
 
It will be fine it's calibrated :), besides, the less I spend on tools the more I can put in the gearbox fund. 107k and I think it's the original.
 
Transfer box rear seal all done and reassembled. Everything else back on and new fluids. Started up, and a horrible noise. Think I must have stressed the water pump / viscous at some stage, probably getting the gearbox back in when I was benching the engine and gearbox trying to get it to line up. PITA.

The horrible noise was the starter motor constantly trying to engage. This happens when the alternator positive wire gets attached to the negative terminal by mistake. Something to watch out for.

Hopefully I'll get away with a new solenoid, however much that costs.
 
Just been through the rave manual and 420nm is highest torque I can find on a TD6 so being a tight wad I have ordered a sub £100 407nm one off amazon. Close enough I think.

Oh and a 3/4 to 1/2 inch adaptor.

I'd be worried about the adaptor taking that king of torque.
 
Ordered my new front diff, and it arrived 3 days early. Unfortunately the lad with a heart condition was dicked with collecting it from the post bunk because I had it addressed to the workshop. I feel kinda bad for him, but it means I can fit the diff this weekend. Yay. Best get me some beer, because is it even DIY if you're not half cut?
 
Hopefully I'll get away with a new solenoid, however much that costs.

Does it not engage at all now?

If there is any life in it strip it. They are simple (old M5 one I got is). Used to ‘chug’ like a defender starter - been months since I did mine and still scares pedestrians with the pop and whoosh it makes. Seem to have souped it up? it’s really powerful :confused:

You will know 100% in 30mins whipping it out and apart and can test it with jump leads off the battery
 
Does it not engage at all now?

If there is any life in it strip it. They are simple (old M5 one I got is). Used to ‘chug’ like a defender starter - been months since I did mine and still scares pedestrians with the pop and whoosh it makes. Seem to have souped it up? it’s really powerful :confused:

You will know 100% in 30mins whipping it out and apart and can test it with jump leads off the battery

Tested and nothing. Completely dead. They're on the Bay for £30 so could be worse.
 
Tested and nothing. Completely dead. They're on the Bay for £30 so could be worse.
There was nothing on mine just a click. When I pulled it out and ran it on j.leads off the P38 on the floor it did go a little. Now goes like stink and not used anything new. You have to take it off either way so may as well try, if it works just send new one back.
 

Similar threads