Best get a Toyota then ;-)Yes yes i know its a diesel but i want to have a lump that'll always work
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
But toyotas are boring
Only because they keep on running and never stop. Wifes Toyo was like that. We had to sell it to Romanian Ram Raiders in order to kill it.But toyotas are boring
Having a look at a 2.5 DHSE maybe in a few days for my Old Dad
I know the electrics are a bug bare but is there anything in particular to worry about with the 2.5 lump?
Ta
H
Yes, high modulation from chain stretch or tired FIP. Warped head from bad maintenance of the cooling system. Old style plastic water pump exploding in situ. Auxiliary belt tensioner bracket cracking. Chipped or powerbox ripping HP22 autobox to bits. Spiral clutch pins and DMF failing on the manual. All the other usual RR niggles not associated with the engine.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
So very true !
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Compressor doesn't run continuously, you could cause damage.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
It also doesn't have one too many cylinder heads, cams made of toffee, slipping liners and a thirst for fuel that means you need to tow a fuel bowser on long runs.
@Datatek sorry, was a deliberate ploy to get you to bite; and you did.
I agree, the 2.5 Diesel has a lot to commend it.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Try to start it from cold, will show up any heater plug / battery/ leak off pipe problems.then take it for a good run to check for any cooling problems. Then check starting from hot, see if it has hot start fix fitted, stretched timing chains so timing out.check all electrics work and EAS operates in all height settingsHaving a look at a 2.5 DHSE maybe in a few days for my Old Dad
I know the electrics are a bug bare but is there anything in particular to worry about with the 2.5 lump?
Ta
H
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
You forgot to tell him to check if the clack valve is concentrically aligned.
No i have that one on the list as well as
The muffler bearing and piston return springs
No i have that one on the list as well as
The muffler bearing and piston return springs
Good man pays to be thorough.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Think he knows that's the first thing to check Tony,You forgot to tell him to check if the clack valve is concentrically aligned.
Wot I did with mine today was....just over 250 miles to Stoke on Trent round trip in my 04 4.4 petrol, steady erm....speed up the M40,42 and 6 returning 24.7 mpg and in total comfort steering with thumb and finger of each hand most of the way - after about 5 miles of Motorway she sat down, picked up her skirt and just flew with only a faint growl of the V8 to accompany us. 4 up and full to the Gunwales.
Pulled off the condenser, oil cooler, radiator, shroud, fan and removed the many pieces of the exploded plastic water impeller and bits of bearing out of the engine and off the engine. Getting good at this now
- Installed new water pump - metal impeller (Airtex)
- New serpentine belt
- New a/c belt
- Cleaned off the old, nasty bitumen like tar / old oil
- Put the bits back on
- Filled up with water and flushing agent
- Inspecting water / flush for any debris
Transfer box motor only moves when the car is cold. So let's take off the ratio control motor. 3 bolts in the cluster easy.... 4th one socket on take up the strain, snap. F*ck. Bolt sheared. NO problem, I'll drill that out later.
Off with the motor, 2 of the 3 screws on the round bit come out, 3rd screw gently now - snap. F*ck.
Back under the car - Ok let's get the drill out and try and remove the bolt. Finally drilled through it but bits of the thread still stuck. Going bigger each drill bit but don't want to damage the threads. Go and get thread cleaner hmmm very tight and no room for the hand tool to turn, so I squirt it with WD40. I'll come back later.
Start to drill out the screw on the motor. Going well, now time for the easy out. Easy out in, take up the slack, snap. Proper F*CK this time. Arrgh. Ok off to the local garage / engineering shop. Tell SWMBO (field engineer in oil and gas). I'll have a look she says. Ok no problem, but DO NOT USE A BLOODY EASY OUT!!! This one just snapped and now I'm stuffed. Don't use an easy out - seriously. Ok she says - so off I go.
Back 20 mins later to glum SWMBO - guess what? She tried to use an easy out and ....... SNAP. So now my pain in the arse became a total sh 1 t of a day. Waiting on cobalt and diamond bits to arrive now
Off with the motor, 2 of the 3 screws on the round bit come out, 3rd screw gently now - snap. F*ck.
Back under the car - Ok let's get the drill out and try and remove the bolt. Finally drilled through it but bits of the thread still stuck. Going bigger each drill bit but don't want to damage the threads. Go and get thread cleaner hmmm very tight and no room for the hand tool to turn, so I squirt it with WD40. I'll come back later.
Start to drill out the screw on the motor. Going well, now time for the easy out. Easy out in, take up the slack, snap. Proper F*CK this time. Arrgh. Ok off to the local garage / engineering shop. Tell SWMBO (field engineer in oil and gas). I'll have a look she says. Ok no problem, but DO NOT USE A BLOODY EASY OUT!!! This one just snapped and now I'm stuffed. Don't use an easy out - seriously. Ok she says - so off I go.
Back 20 mins later to glum SWMBO - guess what? She tried to use an easy out and ....... SNAP. So now my pain in the arse became a total sh 1 t of a day. Waiting on cobalt and diamond bits to arrive now
