@tomcat59alan Quoted
What a turn off for her!, a bicycle patch on your old man. Don't, if Brian asks, post photos
I Haven`t a clue what you are suggesting
Has he had too much sun?
I had to wait so to pass time I tightened my turbo rod 1 turn she now spikes to 21 and settles at 17-18psi to 3.5k she drives much nicer now.
On boost from 1750revs pulling better low down too dosent feel as lazy as before
Tightened the turbo rod? How? Why? Possible pitfalls?
Undid the 10mm lock nut and wound the rod in a turn.
It sits in the boost spike longer and feels more pokey still have a tiny bit of black smoke but not a cloud like before. Next would be a manual boost controller so there's not so much difference between spike and settled boost.
Downfalls more boost = more heat. Obviously not much at such a tiny increase not needing to be as heavy on the throttle as before
Undid the 10mm lock nut and wound the rod in a turn.
It sits in the boost spike longer and feels more pokey still have a tiny bit of black smoke but not a cloud like before. Next would be a manual boost controller so there's not so much difference between spike and settled boost.
Downfalls more boost = more heat. Obviously not much at such a tiny increase not needing to be as heavy on the throttle as before
You need to get your big crayon set out explaining this to me. First turbo engine I have dealt with. You're talking about the waste-gate actuator rod?
Hmmm. More heat doesn't sound good. IMO these engines in the Range Rover are already close to their limit in dumping the heat. On the other hand, wonder if general wear may mean mine isn't giving as much boost as it used to?
Manual boost. Something like this?
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/RANGE-ROVER-...0b39a9015&clk_rvr_id=1240637628008&rmvSB=true
Generally speaking, the ones running at 200bhp plus will just be moving the peak of the torque curve higher up the rev range.
In a heavy car (especially a manual) you want the torque as low down as you can get it.
My point exactly. Since forays into tuning during my teens, I very quickly concluded that unless you want a track car, it's much better to have a car that gives the performance you require in stock mode then make sure it's actually giving said performance.Running that sort of power in a P38 would entail more visits to the fuel station and cause many mechanical problems. BHP and torque is not free unfortunately despite what the tuning companies may tell you.
My point exactly. Since forays into tuning during my teens, I very quickly concluded that unless you want a track car, it's much better to have a car that gives the performance you require in stock mode then make sure it's actually giving said performance.
If you want quick in a range rover, you need v8 and deep pockets. But in all honesty, if you want quick, a range rover is the wrong vehicle. (unless you can afford a supercharged one!)
black smokes with the box on it. Dosent smoke it the box isn't on it.Maybe you should have looked at why you have black smoke in the first place, have you considered cleaning out the intercooler and the MAP sensor?
You just cannot sit still can you, if it ain't broken fix it till it is.black smokes with the box on it. Dosent smoke it the box isn't on it.
I'm not after a 200bhp lump.
I'm well aware it's a huge motor and the 2.5 diesel isn't a rocket ship.
With the big intercooler that's already on it its probably just compensated for the size of it.
All pipes and inlet and everything had been cleared out.
Without the tuning box on it it didn't black smoke
With the box on it did.
My intention and fiddling was to reduce that a touch and it did.
Don't start playing mate. Chip it if you must 175 BHP and the same torque as the 4.0 litre petrol is not bad when you consider it. The motor can be run at over 200 BHP in some BMW cars but not in a P38, Totally different torque and power characteristics are needed to push along a 2.25 ton 4 X 4 that may from time to time be pull another 3.4 tons.