As wamners says. It's not a 5 minute job. I used this guy. £190 for the headliner and £80 for the pillars. You can see the results in my build thread.


s-l200.jpg

Range Rover Classic, P38, HEADLINING RE-TRIMMING SERVICE 2 Door, LSE
 
This is on the sunroof blind that you pull forwards across - not the 3 acres of sag between it and the tailgate - which also needs doing ( eventually).
 
Decided to set the heights properly, rears were about 12 points apart on the blocks so I figured a gentle tweak on the arm would fix that............. Crack........... Bolt lugs both broken off. It looks like they were broken before and glued back together.
Tywrapped it in place but the track is obviously damaged, anything slightly below standard and it drops from 115 to 25.
I guess a pair of new sensors are in order. Trouble is, it's the one time I don't have the merc available and wifey needs the ampera so I've just got to pray it'll get me to Liverpool and back tomorrow!
 
Wazzajnr said:
Decided to set the heights properly, rears were about 12 points apart on the blocks so I figured a gentle tweak on the arm would fix that............. Crack........... Bolt lugs both broken off. It looks like they were broken before and glued back together.
Tywrapped it in place but the track is obviously damaged, anything slightly below standard and it drops from 115 to 25.
I guess a pair of new sensors are in order. Trouble is, it's the one time I don't have the merc available and wifey needs the ampera so I've just got to pray it'll get me to Liverpool and back tomorrow!
Click to expand...

Take a gum shield just in case. :D:D
 
Found another sodding leak.
Rear sunroof drains are blocked where they go clear tube to black inside by the seat catch :(
 
wammers said:
Take a gum shield just in case. :D:D
Click to expand...
The bolts look fubared so I'm guessing they'll be a pig to get out. (think I'll need the gum shield when removing the bolts!)
Can they be chopped off with the dremmel and replaced with through bolts and nuts? If so, any idea what size?
 
Fergie46 said:
Took the old crate through a car wash (top of the range Prowax jobby, only the best) just to watch the carpets stay nice and dry:)
Only to look up at the sunroof and discover the headlinings falling off it - best tackle that before it gets worse - looks like it's just glued on - anybody had a go at this?
Click to expand...

See Dopey's How To in the Technical Section. It is excellent. If you don't mind spending a bit more and avoid the hassle of finding material then I can recommend the Martrim kits.
 
stustrong said:
Planning on taking gearbox off grrrr?
Click to expand...

Yeah, I've had the clutch slipping under certain conditions for years now. Usually when I floor it in a high gear, e.g. 30mph in 4th and then foot to the floor. Oddly it doesn't do it in 2nd! Anyway, I rarely floor it so not much of an issue but now the sump seems to be pressurising and someone suggested rear crank seal might be the issue I've decided sod it, take the damn thing apart and have a gander. So, assuming my plans don't get derailed I'll take it apart this weekend coming, have a good gander and then order any parts I might need next week with the intention of reassembling the weekend after.

Not looking forward to it to be honest. It was a long job last time and I was hoping not to have to do it for another 10 years! Plus I absolutely rammed those spiral pins into the clutch fork last time with a rivet stub up the centre so getting that apart again might be a bit of fun.

Wonder what I ought to replace while I am in there? Spiral pins, obviously. Clutch friction plate for certain. Not sure after that. Maybe the clutch release bearing? How long do these DMF jobbies last? They're pricey but as it is apart ... before long I'll be replacing the gearbox!
 
Rear crank seal well that's two manuals needing it.
Looks simple enough to get the manual gearbox out looks a lot easier then the auto I hope haha.
If I was you pulling it apart I'd be replacing.
Clutch friction plate
Pressure plate
Release bearing
New spiral pins.

My clutch isn't even 6month old and the lad before me reused the original dmf 194k on it now so if it wasn't for the crank seal it'd just be box off swap and on without touching the bellhousimg.

If the dmf is still serviceable I'd be inclined to leave it in at the cost of them Iv used the same one on they skid car 215k on it and 4clutches but the dmf has always been ok.
 
stustrong said:
Rear crank seal well that's two manuals needing it.
Looks simple enough to get the manual gearbox out looks a lot easier then the auto I hope haha.
If I was you pulling it apart I'd be replacing.
Clutch friction plate
Pressure plate
Release bearing
New spiral pins.

My clutch isn't even 6month old and the lad before me reused the original dmf 194k on it now so if it wasn't for the crank seal it'd just be box off swap and on without touching the bellhousimg.

If the dmf is still serviceable I'd be inclined to leave it in at the cost of them Iv used the same one on they skid car 215k on it and 4clutches but the dmf has always been ok.
Click to expand...

Looks like the Valeo kit comes with the pressure plate, friction plate and release bearing. See STC50512VALEO.
 
stustrong said:
Rear crank seal well that's two manuals needing it.
Click to expand...

Not sure it is leaking yet! Will find out when I get in there.

stustrong said:
Looks simple enough to get the manual gearbox out looks a lot easier then the auto I hope haha.
Click to expand...

Never done the Auto but the manual took me 2 long days last time, 1 day to dissemble and a day to reassemble. Mind you, I had some issues along the way and hopefully with all the copper slip I used it'll be a bit quicker this time. On the other hand I had a 4-poster last time and this time will be lying on my back using axle stands so could take a bit longer. Sure someone who is a bit more competent than me could do it in a day. I think the book time is something like 6 hours.

stustrong said:
If I was you pulling it apart I'd be replacing.
Clutch friction plate
Pressure plate
Release bearing
New spiral pins.
Click to expand...

Looks like this should cover it:

Clutch Kit BMW TD (Valeo) STC50512VALEO (contains: Clutch friction plate, Pressure plate, Release bearing)
New spiral pins = Clutch Fork Roll Pin P38 2.5TD & V8 (Genuine) FTC1692LR
Spigot bearing = Crankshaft Rear Spigot Bearing STC2079
 
Aswell as the rear seal id say that covers the box not having to come off again unless box or dmf failure which would be my plan in an ideal world.

Got an auto box off and on and driving again in 10hours
 
stustrong said:
Aswell as the rear seal id say that covers the box not having to come off again unless box or dmf failure which would be my plan in an ideal world.

Got an auto box off and on and driving again in 10hours
Click to expand...

Haven't looked in RAVE yet but is there an alignment tool required for the rear seal? How's the spigot bearing held in?
 
Grrrrrr said:
Haven't looked in RAVE yet but is there an alignment tool required for the rear seal? How's the spigot bearing held in?
Click to expand...
just a tap in fit outside edge is tight fit on the recess in the centre of the flywheel
Gearbox shaft goes inside it when box is fitted Just a tiny bearing to keep the input shaft in line with the box and stops it flopping about when the clutch pedals pressed.

Rear seal will be the same principle and fitting as a crank front seal or a diff input seal
 
This is any movement in the dmf that's allowed for a BMW e36 325 tds (same engine as ours)
Stung dmfs Iv reused with the 1 tooth free play have been fine many of miles down the line
IMG_1729.PNG
 
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