Took a day off work after a somewhat busy week and met up with Grrrr, (what a very nice chap), at Grantham in order to run his Nanocom across my P38 systems.

Although I cleaned up my OBC connector, (when I was stripping the interior just before Christmas), -1 to me for not giving it a second going over prior to running today's test as we couldn't establish connectivity with my GEMS ECU but we were able to interrogate all other systems.

It was a very interesting experience and reinforced my desire to invest in Nanocom ASAP!

This somewhat impromptu 'healthcheck' revealed a few interesting issues but also seemed to reinforce my, (previously ascertained), conclusion that my beast is in reasonable electro-mechanical condition - for a 20 year old wreck!

My HECU error was, originally, attributed to a directional blender/blower motor, (can't remember exact text), but after a second read this error had disappeared, (although the book symbol remained on the display), possibly suggesting that my AC needs regassing?

My heating system did appear to work correctly en route to meet Grrr so I could be lucky!

The airbag error referred to a 'memory' issue but, once reset, did not reappear on my way home.

Tranny checks were ok but we could not obtain engine data unfortunately.

It would appear that work has been done on the BeCU as it is 'unlocked' although not sure, exactly, what that infers - good or bad!

Also obtained my EKA so that saves me a trip to the dealer!

Overall very impressed with Nanocom and fully understand importance of same!

Also impressed that my truck got me Grantham, (and back), without missing a beat.

My sincere thanks to Grrrr for volunteering his services and I hope I can return the favour some time soon.

As if that wasn't enough for one day I decided to initiate work on the relining of my headliner this afternoon - following Dopey's excellent article.

After one change of location, two attempts, three procedural alterations, (and a near divorce), I managed to bond the majority of my new cream/white pseudo suede material bonded to my fibreglass headliner moulding.

I will now trim the edges and then glue the remaining edge material to the back of the moulding and then carefully cut out the various openings.

It was a very difficult process and, (being totally honest), my attempt falls short of perfection but it still looks very good and, (at the end of the day), looks far better than it did before I started!!

All in all a very productive day.

Lack of gas should not bring up book symbol, sometimes difficult to read HEVAC if BECM is unlocked. If the BECM is unlocked you can read EKA code and fob code with it locked you can't. Running it unlocked is not a problem apart from the aforementioned sometimes problem with the HEVAC. See Nanocom instructions for what to do with and unlocked BECM IF you cannot talk to HEVAC.

Wammer's,

Many thanks for clarification - Grrr did state that an unlocked BeCU can be a bonus but it can also create further issues although I fully expect AC to be u/s.

Hoping to get Sunroof out tomorrow, reline the cover, and then put it all back and, hopefully, get headlining reinstalled by Sunday.

My next task will be to remove the dash and I will then examine/clean all HIVAC blower/blend motors, (and change the heater o rings whilst I am in there).

Interesting to note similarity with Jeep Grand Cherokee heating system which I had to strip, (for similar reasons), a couple of years ago!

Don't need to remove the sunroof to do the head liner just precut a nice new bit of material about an inch bigger than needed spray the black plastic with glue fit said new material and trim to size soooooooooooo much easier

Martian said:

Although I cleaned up my OBC connector, (when I was stripping the interior just before Christmas), -1 to me for not giving it a second going over prior to running today's test as we couldn't establish connectivity with my GEMS ECU but we were able to interrogate all other systems.

My HECU error was, originally, attributed to a directional blender/blower motor, (can't remember exact text), but after a second read this error had disappeared, (although the book symbol remained on the display), possibly suggesting that my AC needs regassing?

The airbag error referred to a 'memory' issue but, once reset, did not reappear on my way home.

Click to expand...

You're most welcome. Always interesting to have a tinker.

Original HEVAC fault was something like a short circuit in the driver's distribution motor. Went away though and didn't come back. Didn't save the text, unfortunately.

The airbag fault was:

--------------------------
AIRBAG CONTROL UNIT HAS AN INTERNAL MEMORY FAULT.
---
IGNITION SUPPLIED VOLTAGE IS OR HAS BEEN TOO LOW.
---
--------------------------

So probably just a flat battery at some stage.

The BECM had no VIN number (set to 0) and was unlocked. Bit odd. Think either it was a new BECM at some stage or someone with some more serious kit has had a tinker with it. It was also set to POLICE but there was no sign of the car ever being used as a police vehicle.

Nanocom manual states:

Attention: If the BECM is unlocked, it can inhibit the diagnostic communication with other systems. The solution is to disconnect temporarily the diagnostic bus from the BECM. Remove the fuse box panel (on the side of the driver's seat) and unplug the white connector nearest the front of the vehicle. If The BECM is Locked Communication with the system is not possible while the engine is running.

Later on it goes on to specifically mention the HEVAC system. If I'd had access to the manual then maybe we could have tried the above and then tried the GEMS engine module again. Odd we got into the gearbox module the first time and then couldn't get back in though.

Think you mentioned a fibre-glass pen or something for cleaning he ODB pin sockets?

Grrr,

All points duly noted and appreciated - my truck will have experienced lots of 'low voltages'!!

I will clean the ODB connectors with a fibreglass pencil as that will remove all oxidation.

I have driven a number of 'emergency' vehicles in my time, (adorned with both blue and green checkers and many with 'covert' features that are not quite as obvious), but never driven a RR until I acquired mine!

Dave,

Many thanks for your particular tip - especially so as I have no one to help me take the weight of the Sunroof assembly when I remove the last bolt!!

Unfortunately, however, the sunroof mechanism has just started graunching, (and stalling), so I had better remove it and strip down the mechanism, (re-greasing all mechanical contact areas), and hopefully that will keep it going for the remaining life of the vehicle, (also need to check passenger door window cable as I have obviously disturbed it when I serviced the doors - it doesn't work now), one step forward two steps back!

The relining, (although simple in principle), was a right pain around all of the various peaks and troughs as I suspect my material may have been a little too heavy as it did not have very much 'give' to be able to stretch, slightly, into the various recesses.

It does look ok, however, and I will now start to cut out the material from the various holes, (sunroof, courtesy lights, ultrasonic station, etc).

But currently 'under orders' to go shopping first!!

Take care out there!

Grrrrrr said:

You're most welcome. Always interesting to have a tinker.

Original HEVAC fault was something like a short circuit in the driver's distribution motor. Went away though and didn't come back. Didn't save the text, unfortunately.

The airbag fault was:

--------------------------
AIRBAG CONTROL UNIT HAS AN INTERNAL MEMORY FAULT.
---
IGNITION SUPPLIED VOLTAGE IS OR HAS BEEN TOO LOW.
---
--------------------------

So probably just a flat battery at some stage.

The BECM had no VIN number (set to 0) and was unlocked. Bit odd. Think either it was a new BECM at some stage or someone with some more serious kit has had a tinker with it. It was also set to POLICE but there was no sign of the car ever being used as a police vehicle.

Nanocom manual states:

Attention: If the BECM is unlocked, it can inhibit the diagnostic communication with other systems. The solution is to disconnect temporarily the diagnostic bus from the BECM. Remove the fuse box panel (on the side of the driver's seat) and unplug the white connector nearest the front of the vehicle. If The BECM is Locked Communication with the system is not possible while the engine is running.

Later on it goes on to specifically mention the HEVAC system. If I'd had access to the manual then maybe we could have tried the above and then tried the GEMS engine module again. Odd we got into the gearbox module the first time and then couldn't get back in though.

Think you mentioned a fibre-glass pen or something for cleaning he ODB pin sockets?

Click to expand...

BECM should not be set to police that i believe can cause certain problems. Hope you corrected that. Was the engine mode set to GEMS?

wammers said:

BECM should not be set to police that i believe can cause certain problems. Hope you corrected that. Was the engine mode set to GEMS?

Click to expand...

It was GEMS, yes.

I didn't change anything. It was working so I left it. The fact the BECM was unlocked made me suspicious so I left well alone. Martian is getting his own so he can risk it then rather than being stuck on a multistorey with traffic wardens hovering.

Grrrrrr said:

It was GEMS, yes.

I didn't change anything. It was working so I left it. The fact the BECM was unlocked made me suspicious so I left well alone. Martian is getting his own so he can risk it then rather than being stuck on a multistorey with traffic wardens hovering.

Click to expand...

You should be able to write the correct vehicle VIN number to the BECM with Nanocom when it is unlocked. With BECM unlocked ECM security code, EKA code and Fob code can be read. With BECM locked. Only ECM code is readable. EKA and Fob code are blank.

Yes, he took a picture of the EKA and fob code screen. Never seen one unlocked before.

Grrrrrr said:

Yes, he took a picture of the EKA and fob code screen. Never seen one unlocked before.

Click to expand...

Engine ECM on petrol only has one wire to OBDII socket Pink with red tracer to pin 7.

All very interesting - just wondering whether BeCU may have been changed, (in the past - for reasons unknown), with the 'unlocked' one?

We both decided to err on the side of caution, (regarding making any significant changes), just in case!

The A52 between Grantham and Boston is not the best place to break down especially when it starts to get dark, (although I can't think of many other vehicles that I would feel as safe sitting in whilst waiting for the cavalry to arrive)!

Took it for a good spin today to check everything is ok after helicoiling & changing head gasket. All good so far............

Always rewarding when you have replaced a duff thread with a helicoil insert.

Taken another brave step this afternoon as I removed the complete sunroof assembly in order to replace my sunroof cover lining.

I could have taken the easier route but as my roof has just started graunching and stalling I had no choice but to rip it out, (single handedly once again)!

It would not even open with the emergency key slot, (using a large screwdriver), so I had to strip it!

Removing the roof was not too difficult, (one connector and about 8 x 10mm bolts), and out she comes but this is where the fun starts as I have never seen so many intricate plastic levers and other mechanical components, (not to mention the worm drives and the metal runners).

Managed to strip it right down, (as both the worm drive and the metal runners have lots of gritty grease smeared all over and the wind deflector, (that springs up when the roof retracts), had a broken lever which was probably causing my problem.

Only problem is that, (when I lifted the glass safely out of harms way), the complex lever assembly dropped away so I will now study RAVE in hope that I can find a diagram!

I have thoroughly decreased all components, (will do worm drive tomorrow), so it is ready for regressing.

Hoping for a dry night as I have tarpaulin draped over roof whilst sunroof assembly remains in lots of pieces!

My task for tomorrow is to repair the broken plastic spigot, reline the sunroof cover, re-grease the worm drive and rails and then put it all back, (single handedly).

No pressure then!

Martian said:

Always rewarding when you have replaced a duff thread with a helicoil insert.

Click to expand...

Or the remaining 9 in my case.

Quite glad I don't have a sunroof in mine!

MartynV8,

I hope your other ninew are holding as well - I am sure they are.

All,

Spent all day putting my sunroof back to gether again, (intertwined with the relining of the Sunroof Blind and cutting out the various holes in the headlining.

Got to a point, around lunchtime, where it was all back together, (including the relined blind cover), but then I suddenly noted that I had not inserted the leader rails into the tracks - so it was time for another complete strip down - Patrick!!

Midway through the afternoon I diverted my attention to the glass and, (mistake number 2), I removed the outer rubber seal, (as the metal lip was badly corroded all around the perimeter of the frame), and sanded down the rust and then treated it accordingly.

Later afternoon saw me replacing the rubber seal around the glass panel but, AAGGHH, there was a 1 cm gap where the two ends should meet, (not good when trying to eradicate all known leaks), so I had to apply some basic physics, (and some agricultural engineering tips), by placing the rubber seal on the boiler for half an hour, (making it far more malleable), and then 'encouraging' the seal to go 'fully home' by way of a rubber mallet and, bingo, the two ends met!!

Late afternoon, (much later), saw me fitting the entire assembly back into the car, (resplendent with new sunroof blind cover - but not the glass - that was still 'curing'), as I wanted to reduce the weight of the assembly as I was fitting it myself!

I then bolted it down and plugged in the motor and reached for the ignition so that I could hear the assembly move, effortlessly, backwards and forwards after all of my care, attention and new grease.

The motor only energised one way and then went silent when pushing the Sunroof switch the other way - I couldn't believe it as I had been checking the mechanics all afternoon - with the magic key, (well a large flat blade screwdriver as I don't have the key), to ensure I had it all back together properly and that there were no snags.

On closer inspection and although the motor was turning, (if only in one direction), it was NOT driving the two drive wires so I, reluctantly, had to remove the motor assembly, (which is very easy - 3 x 6mm bolts fortunately), and I noted that the 'gearbox' cover was sitting slightly proud on one side, (it is riveted in place), and I can only presume that my constant winding, backwards and forwards, has forced the stepped cam away from the drive shaft and the gap is sufficient to allow the motor drive to slip - therefore not driving the control wires).

I have given up for today, (I have put the tarpaulin back over the roof), and I will attempt to convert the gearbox mounts from rivets to self tapping screws and I will then have to manually align it, (there is a single micro switch driven by an outer gear that rotates around the inner drive shaft), with a bit of 'trial and error but I have every confidence!

Not quite what I was hoping for but I am still pleased with my efforts despite the bad luck regarding the motor assembly!

Watch this space for later developments later in the week!.

I stripped down the sunroof motor, yesterday, (drilled out blind rivets and replaced with self tappers), cleaned out all of the old grease and re greased.

Noted that there are two gear wheels, (both with indents), that actuate a single microswitch which is obviously used to keep the BeCU informed about the position of the sunroof.

Both gears have to be inserted with the indents lined up and, (as the gears rotate in opposite direction), this allows the single microswitch to control/limit movement in BOTH directions.

After installing motor, (with glass still removed), full functionality was restored so the glass was then re-inserted, (a simple process involving just 4 x Torx bolts), but I noted that the seal has raised slightly, (where I had used a little heat glue to bond the ends together), and the roof would then stall when attempting to fully open it, (which was happening previously and why I stripped it right down).

I doubt whether the motor is at fault, (still looks brand new), and suspect the outer seal may have swelled and is rubbing against the side rails?

The glass has also started to lift away from the metal base so I will now remove it, (again), and thoroughly dry it and then attempt to bond the glass to the frame with epoxy resin and I will attempt to reinstall the seal, (for the second time),in the hope it will seal and not cause the motor to stall.

Not been able to work on car today, (curse of work), and doubt if I can do much tomorrow, (popping over to Newark to see 'Rumours of Fleetwood Mac'), so sunroof repair attempt 3 may have to wait till Saturday?

Had to bypass the coolant hoses to my LPG Vap today as all the messing around in the engine bay recently had 'upset' one of the hoses, going between the bulkhead & manifold, the heat has taken it's toll over the last 8 years. Waiting for new hoses & T sections to arrive so i can get back on LPG. In the meantime i'll be looking at why my sat nav has lost it's marbles