I think it's going to have to go to the garage.. it needs to be on a ramp for leverage and more room
But you have managed to change the actual arm?
You said the ball joint was ok, didnt you?
J
I think it's going to have to go to the garage.. it needs to be on a ramp for leverage and more room
Yes the arm is done but the ball joint feels very sloppy.. not bad enough to bounce around though. YetBut you have managed to change the actual arm?
You said the ball joint was ok, didnt you?
J
Also I've failed to tighten the nut on the ball joint enough.. my long spanners only go up to 18mm.. bigger are regular length so it's not drivable right now.. more than manoeuvres.. I've not damaged the thread but it feels like it
Doing it back up was the problem. I used another nut.Is it seated?
Its a taper once clean and seated it takes a bit to break it apart without the nut.
Double spanner it.
J
I'll try Keith's method first, if it all comes undone, I may well take you up on that.Il send you mine if you need to borrow one
i have never purchased or heard of 15mm imperial olives always just use standard ones, 5/8 is slightly bigger than 15mm so the pipe may not fit in the fitting but the fitting could be machined to fit, it should take the pressure no problem as the oil pressure is less than some mains water.I think I might need @brianp38dse or @gstuart for their opinion here!
5/8" is nearly but not quite 15 mm? My house is all imperial pipework and I know damn well that 15 or 22 mm olives leak every time but you can get olives from Screwfix that fit imperial and take up the slack.
If I were to use a 15 mm fitting with one of those imperial olives, would that hold against oil pressure of 4 bar?
i have never purchased or heard of 15mm imperial olives always just use standard ones, 5/8 is slightly bigger than 15mm so the pipe may not fit in the fitting but the fitting could be machined to fit, it should take the pressure no problem as the oil pressure is less than some mains water.
i may be able to help with machining fittings if needed.
I would always use metric olives with metric fittings & vice versa. I used 15mm solder & compression fittings for some 8-bar airline feeds in my garage with no issues.
Have you tried asking some of those custom hose companies that do made to measure stuff ? I googled this "oil cooler pipes made to measure" and these came up.
https://www.customhoses.co.uk/hoses/oil-fuel-coolant
https://www.tomcatwebshop.co.uk/
Have you considered this guide? Not sure on the longevity of that fix but it's a simple option.No.
I went to the local hydraulic place but he seemed to think Land Rover were an odd size.
My main problem, apart from the cost of the Land Rover part, is that the pipes are more than likely welded to the cooler. Hence the plan to just cut the steel pipe and use a compression fitting to join to it.
A sight flare on the end of the steel tube and 2 Jubilee clips worked fine on my race car and is what I will do if the oil cooler pipes fail again because the ends cannot be removed from the cooler due to corrosion.No.
I went to the local hydraulic place but he seemed to think Land Rover were an odd size.
My main problem, apart from the cost of the Land Rover part, is that the pipes are more than likely welded to the cooler. Hence the plan to just cut the steel pipe and use a compression fitting to join to it.
Nearest imperial size is 1/2". BES do them, inluding 15mm to 1/2" converters.That's weird. Just checked Screwfix for the link and they don't seem to sell them anymore! They're not 15mm but whatever the imperial measurement is which is ever so slightly different. Best make what I've got last.
I've got a lathe so in theory I could skim a bit out to make it fit. Good to know it could take the pressure. I might just risk it.
Personally, I would never trust an olive on flexible hose.Nearest imperial size is 1/2". BES do them, inluding 15mm to 1/2" converters.
View attachment 336821
Just had that problem when I went to set the windows after my flat battery incident, window went down but not up so used Faultmate to close it.Passenger front and rear windows decided not to work yesterday.
Switchpack out and a clean of the contacts and all good again.View attachment 336824