Also I've failed to tighten the nut on the ball joint enough.. my long spanners only go up to 18mm.. bigger are regular length so it's not drivable right now.. more than manoeuvres.. I've not damaged the thread but it feels like it
 
Also I've failed to tighten the nut on the ball joint enough.. my long spanners only go up to 18mm.. bigger are regular length so it's not drivable right now.. more than manoeuvres.. I've not damaged the thread but it feels like it

Is it seated?
Its a taper once clean and seated it takes a bit to break it apart without the nut.

Double spanner it ;).

J
 
Is it seated?
Its a taper once clean and seated it takes a bit to break it apart without the nut.

Double spanner it ;).

J
Doing it back up was the problem. I used another nut.
Doing the other end up to speed at ride height is impossible without a ramp / pit. So it's just effing tight.. I'll get it after a test drive
 
Well nothing fell off!! it's a lot lot better but there's still a knock over really bad potholes that seems to be louder.. so it's probably that ball joint.. worse for being disturbed
 
I think I might need @brianp38dse or @gstuart for their opinion here!

5/8" is nearly but not quite 15 mm? My house is all imperial pipework and I know damn well that 15 or 22 mm olives leak every time but you can get olives from Screwfix that fit imperial and take up the slack.

If I were to use a 15 mm fitting with one of those imperial olives, would that hold against oil pressure of 4 bar?
i have never purchased or heard of 15mm imperial olives always just use standard ones, 5/8 is slightly bigger than 15mm so the pipe may not fit in the fitting but the fitting could be machined to fit, it should take the pressure no problem as the oil pressure is less than some mains water.
i may be able to help with machining fittings if needed.
 
i have never purchased or heard of 15mm imperial olives always just use standard ones, 5/8 is slightly bigger than 15mm so the pipe may not fit in the fitting but the fitting could be machined to fit, it should take the pressure no problem as the oil pressure is less than some mains water.
i may be able to help with machining fittings if needed.

That's weird. Just checked Screwfix for the link and they don't seem to sell them anymore! They're not 15mm but whatever the imperial measurement is which is ever so slightly different. Best make what I've got last.

I've got a lathe so in theory I could skim a bit out to make it fit. Good to know it could take the pressure. I might just risk it.
 
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I would always use metric olives with metric fittings & vice versa. I used 15mm solder & compression fittings for some 8-bar airline feeds in my garage with no issues.

Have you tried asking some of those custom hose companies that do made to measure stuff ? I googled this "oil cooler pipes made to measure" and these came up.

https://www.customhoses.co.uk/hoses/oil-fuel-coolant

https://www.tomcatwebshop.co.uk/

No.

I went to the local hydraulic place but he seemed to think Land Rover were an odd size.

My main problem, apart from the cost of the Land Rover part, is that the pipes are more than likely welded to the cooler. Hence the plan to just cut the steel pipe and use a compression fitting to join to it.
 
No.

I went to the local hydraulic place but he seemed to think Land Rover were an odd size.

My main problem, apart from the cost of the Land Rover part, is that the pipes are more than likely welded to the cooler. Hence the plan to just cut the steel pipe and use a compression fitting to join to it.
Have you considered this guide? Not sure on the longevity of that fix but it's a simple option.
 
No.

I went to the local hydraulic place but he seemed to think Land Rover were an odd size.

My main problem, apart from the cost of the Land Rover part, is that the pipes are more than likely welded to the cooler. Hence the plan to just cut the steel pipe and use a compression fitting to join to it.
A sight flare on the end of the steel tube and 2 Jubilee clips worked fine on my race car and is what I will do if the oil cooler pipes fail again because the ends cannot be removed from the cooler due to corrosion.
 
I'm just about to tackle unsticking the sticky driver side rear brake caliper. sometimes it sticks, sometimes it doesn't. I found Rimmer Bros do a vey good video on how to do it. I find their videos very matter-of-fact, not over-produced like some of the stuff on youtube.
 
That's weird. Just checked Screwfix for the link and they don't seem to sell them anymore! They're not 15mm but whatever the imperial measurement is which is ever so slightly different. Best make what I've got last.

I've got a lathe so in theory I could skim a bit out to make it fit. Good to know it could take the pressure. I might just risk it.
Nearest imperial size is 1/2". BES do them, inluding 15mm to 1/2" converters.

1741599519479.png
 
Drivers side rear brake caliper sticking, now sorted! The worst bit is trying to get the car raised! I drove the back wheel onto a block of 4x4 (wood), chock front wheels, raised suspension, big bus jack under rear jacking point, small jack under back axle to clear wheel off the ground. Found the top slide pin was seized almost solid. With about 4mm of pad left, I'll get a new set ordered for next week.
 

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