Have you checked the batteries in the fob kerms?
Both fobs not working, diag was quite clear that it had lost communication with the rf module
Both batteries have decent volts
Read last night about damp killing the module
Looks like the rf receiver is in the headlining
Not sure if that's the same as the rf module or not?
Afraid so, but there is a module in the rear cubby somewhere.Looks like the rf receiver is in the headlining
Not sure if that's the same as the rf module or not?
Have you tried placing the key as in the "anti theft" attachment as this seems to bypass all the receiver's and modules.
J
do you mean did i put the key fob under the steering column?
yes, but you have to be very precise in location and orientation
i should probably start a separate thread as there doesnt seem to be much on this one so far
Its not around the steering column, its by your right knee near the light, it shows you in the doc.
J
Well, I've been for a drive. Something has reset somewhere.
The heater actually worked on auto. Properly!! It's never done this before even when it's 'worked' in the past. Once it started to warm up after a couple of mins, the fan went up to max and got everything warm.. distribution flaps moved and everything!! Then it all calmed down and started at the selected temp. Quite remarkable
Wondering if i should just leave and forget, see how it goes, or disconnect the battery and let it do a full reset.. hmm..
The heater actually worked on auto. Properly!! It's never done this before even when it's 'worked' in the past. Once it started to warm up after a couple of mins, the fan went up to max and got everything warm.. distribution flaps moved and everything!! Then it all calmed down and started at the selected temp. Quite remarkable
Wondering if i should just leave and forget, see how it goes, or disconnect the battery and let it do a full reset.. hmm..
I did check the connectors on the keyless module, no damp or corrosionI'd leave it and not tempt the gods of JLR
Went out to take the Green P38 for fuel today today, and found battery almost flat after sitting for a week. Got it charged up & had to wait for Key Code Lockout to timeout again . Now it seems the BECM is not sleeping correctly since I re-installed the dash. It drops to 0.5A but never sleeps properly.
Did the usual checks disconnecting the RF antenna (even though I do have Marty's filter installed), but it still will not sleep. Tried pulling F1 to de-power the radio backup feed as well.
Getting cold & dark now, so looks like BECM wake-up checks needed. Thing is, I only removed dash, instruments & heater, so not sure what could be stopping it sleeping.
. Now it seems the BECM is not sleeping correctly since I re-installed the dash. It drops to 0.5A but never sleeps properly.Did the usual checks disconnecting the RF antenna (even though I do have Marty's filter installed), but it still will not sleep. Tried pulling F1 to de-power the radio backup feed as well.
Getting cold & dark now, so looks like BECM wake-up checks needed. Thing is, I only removed dash, instruments & heater, so not sure what could be stopping it sleeping.
My son Elliott is going through a parasitic drain, after three/four days it'll drain then battery. He's disconnected the heated seats as they are burnt out.... We've been through a couple of avenues but still there is something...Went out to take the Green P38 for fuel today today, and found battery almost flat after sitting for a week. Got it charged up & had to wait for Key Code Lockout to timeout again
Did the usual checks disconnecting the RF antenna (even though I do have Marty's filter installed), but it still will not sleep. Tried pulling F1 to de-power the radio backup feed as well.
Getting cold & dark now, so looks like BECM wake-up checks needed. Thing is, I only removed dash, instruments & heater, so not sure what could be stopping it sleeping.
Set fire to it!
Maybe buying an old series could improve things
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Not quite Mark. I will not be beaten. Must be something simple because it's only 0.5A and used to be << 50mA. Cannot be heated seats cos they are both open circuit !!
One strange thing in Nanocom is "door ajar" in BECM inputs doesn't seem to work, but in Wabco-C it's correct. But then BECM diags only works with ignition off, so that could be red-herring. Multimeter out tomorrow !!
One strange thing in Nanocom is "door ajar" in BECM inputs doesn't seem to work, but in Wabco-C it's correct. But then BECM diags only works with ignition off, so that could be red-herring. Multimeter out tomorrow !!
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I do admire your drive mate though..,
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Sorry..
Update today (14:33) Note: bonnet open during all tests, but the catch switch was removed years ago, so the car thinks it's closed !!
1) Doors closed, Ignition off & locked with FOB. Drain stays around 500mA & never seems to drop.
2) Disconnected alternator & repeat test 1. Same result. Also tried pulling fuses one at a time, but no change the current.
3) Disconnect RF Receiver from BECM and repeat test 1. Same result.
4) Tested both front door latches using Nanocom. Keyswitch, CDL & Door Ajar all working correctly. (BECM SID mentions rear left door as an input, but not rear right door ? Maybe I should check that as well ?)
5) Key-In detection seems to work when enabled (i.e. dash beeps), but Nanocom does not show status change in Inputs menu.
I guess next steps are to remove front seat & check all the BECM "wake up" inputs in case there's a bad wire somewhere.
Update 2 (16:34)
Gone through the first part of BECM Activation Inputs tests (attached doc). All inputs seem to be as they should be, and correctly go to GND when manually trying each input. Drain still never drops below 500mA. (even RF receiver signal sits around 9V and only shows signal when I press the fob, so Marty's filter is working.)
Did the Maxi Fuse MF1, MF4 & MF5 test (which I hadn't because it doesn't help). Drain drops to 80mA, but that could be a red herring, because they remove power to BECM !! Now waiting for Key Code Lockout again due to Maxi Fuse test
Next will be the "under bonnet checks" on page 5 of the attached doc. (This is just an extract from the BECM SID in case it's useful to anyone).
Update 3 (17:50)
Entered EKA and car starts fine. Still getting battery drain, and now cannot sync the fob. Lock & unlock works ok, and can start car ok, but it did sync last time . . . . . .effing frustrating it is.
Pete
1) Doors closed, Ignition off & locked with FOB. Drain stays around 500mA & never seems to drop.
2) Disconnected alternator & repeat test 1. Same result. Also tried pulling fuses one at a time, but no change the current.
3) Disconnect RF Receiver from BECM and repeat test 1. Same result.
4) Tested both front door latches using Nanocom. Keyswitch, CDL & Door Ajar all working correctly. (BECM SID mentions rear left door as an input, but not rear right door ? Maybe I should check that as well ?)
5) Key-In detection seems to work when enabled (i.e. dash beeps), but Nanocom does not show status change in Inputs menu.
I guess next steps are to remove front seat & check all the BECM "wake up" inputs in case there's a bad wire somewhere.
Update 2 (16:34)
Gone through the first part of BECM Activation Inputs tests (attached doc). All inputs seem to be as they should be, and correctly go to GND when manually trying each input. Drain still never drops below 500mA. (even RF receiver signal sits around 9V and only shows signal when I press the fob, so Marty's filter is working.)
Did the Maxi Fuse MF1, MF4 & MF5 test (which I hadn't because it doesn't help). Drain drops to 80mA, but that could be a red herring, because they remove power to BECM !! Now waiting for Key Code Lockout again due to Maxi Fuse test
Next will be the "under bonnet checks" on page 5 of the attached doc. (This is just an extract from the BECM SID in case it's useful to anyone).
Update 3 (17:50)
Entered EKA and car starts fine. Still getting battery drain, and now cannot sync the fob. Lock & unlock works ok, and can start car ok, but it did sync last time . . . . . .effing frustrating it is.
Pete
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