Quick recalibrate of the steering angle sensor and re activated the easy entry
Snapchat-1876719938.jpg
 
Looks a bit of a mission! Think I’d have put up with wheel not moving, long as it still moves to change direction for the car… that could get interesting at the first bend 🤣
1 Torx bolt under the bonnet,
1 in center console trim and it clips off,
4 in bit above pedals,
3 in wheel surround cowl
8 easy to get plugs
4x 13mm bolts

I had a complete one with steering wheel and everything on so bolt on and go,

Mine had broken tabs so it had been wound to a position it was solid and then motor unplugged, it just bugged me
 
1 Torx bolt under the bonnet,
1 in center console trim and it clips off,
4 in bit above pedals,
3 in wheel surround cowl
8 easy to get plugs
4x 13mm bolts

I had a complete one with steering wheel and everything on so bolt on and go,

Mine had broken tabs so it had been wound to a position it was solid and then motor unplugged, it just bugged me
Not to bad then, probably one of them jobs that’s looks a pain but not too bad when your in there.
 
Been faffing about with the window switch pack on my p38 today. Found a very nice thread by Martyuk on another forum detailing how to fix them one you've got it all apart its a very doable job. Not sure what the policy is about linking to other forums on here, so no link but google is your friend!

DSC_0538.JPG
DSC_0539.JPG


As you can see above there is some corrosion on the contacts which in my case caused them to not go up anymore. Which is unpractical if that happens just when it starts raining...
 
No i had no idea this was even an option on my 2006.
You hardly have a link to the software?

Been faffing about with the window switch pack on my p38 today. Found a very nice thread by Martyuk on another forum detailing how to fix them one you've got it all apart its a very doable job. Not sure what the policy is about linking to other forums on here, so no link but google is your friend!

View attachment 292390View attachment 292392

As you can see above there is some corrosion on the contacts which in my case caused them to not go up anymore. Which is unpractical if that happens just when it starts raining...
Martyuk is a member on here as well so no problem, sadly he went to work over in NZ when covid hit and has not come back
 
What a day,
Since i got my s/c the handbrakes been high sharp but high so a double pull retentions the auto cable.
So last night i ordered rear bearings, backing plates, shoes, fitting kit, hub bushes upper and lower and new toe arms and the eccentric bolts for the toe and camber in my thinking itl get done all as one then get new tyres on and alignment done,

So today is the girlfriends birthday we had a meal booked in the city (50miles each way) and i got away from the job early happy as anything 10miles from home, scrape scrape scrape metallic noises,

rush in the door grab my unit keys with a 1hour time frame so rush upto my unit 4miles away a jack under each rear arm rear wheels carriers and discs off the handbrake had pulled the pins on the backing plate,

Quick bodge time 10mm bolts and reused the retaining springs and washers with double nut on the back

Wheels on and home and in the shower within the hour,

Everything worked out and we was early okay the shoes need adjustment but it still holds itself thankfully i never had to resort too the "just leave it in park its an auto mate" or the "why do you even need a handbrake with an auto" 😅😅
 
What a day,
Since i got my s/c the handbrakes been high sharp but high so a double pull retentions the auto cable.
So last night i ordered rear bearings, backing plates, shoes, fitting kit, hub bushes upper and lower and new toe arms and the eccentric bolts for the toe and camber in my thinking itl get done all as one then get new tyres on and alignment done,

So today is the girlfriends birthday we had a meal booked in the city (50miles each way) and i got away from the job early happy as anything 10miles from home, scrape scrape scrape metallic noises,

rush in the door grab my unit keys with a 1hour time frame so rush upto my unit 4miles away a jack under each rear arm rear wheels carriers and discs off the handbrake had pulled the pins on the backing plate,

Quick bodge time 10mm bolts and reused the retaining springs and washers with double nut on the back

Wheels on and home and in the shower within the hour,

Everything worked out and we was early okay the shoes need adjustment but it still holds itself thankfully i never had to resort too the "just leave it in park its an auto mate" or the "why do you even need a handbrake with an auto" 😅😅
Not had mine pull through yet on my td6 but must be ok borrowed time as the bottom edge of the back plate isn’t too clever so corrosion must be working it’s way up there, least it’s an easy bodge that’s probably better than the factory idea.
 
Been faffing about with the window switch pack on my p38 today. Found a very nice thread by Martyuk on another forum detailing how to fix them one you've got it all apart its a very doable job. Not sure what the policy is about linking to other forums on here, so no link but google is your friend!

View attachment 292390View attachment 292392

As you can see above there is some corrosion on the contacts which in my case caused them to not go up anymore. Which is unpractical if that happens just when it starts raining...
I used that guide too with one exception. Marty says to save the little plastic pips that are cut off so they can be reused to 'weld' the switch back on to the pcb. I've done 3 switch packs and have used a door card plastic stud twice and a zip tie once as fillers and they work fine. I use a large 6" plastic croc clip to clamp the switch in place before the welding which helps a lot or another pair of hands. Test that the cleaning contacts has worked by hooking it back up to the car before welding.
 
Managed to change the upper hub bushes, weather turned but carried on, was quite easy, give them a good wack with big hammer to crack any rust. Lower ones to do when I get another fine day.
Already most of the creaking has gone and feels much tighter on the road.

IMG_2846.jpeg


Old ones had seen better days!
IMG_2847.jpeg
 
Managed to change the upper hub bushes, weather turned but carried on, was quite easy, give them a good wack with big hammer to crack any rust. Lower ones to do when I get another fine day.
Already most of the creaking has gone and feels much tighter on the road.

View attachment 292453

Old ones had seen better days!
View attachment 292454
I see your worn Bush and raise you a proper knackered bush(off me tratter 110) :eek:
20230625_114406.jpg
20230625_114351.jpg
 
Been out n about today, think think torque converter is squiffy :(
Going down a very steep hill from standstill, felt like there was no engine braking. Accelerator didn't do anything!! Until i accelerated even more and the tc locked up.
It's fine pulling away on the flat or uphill though
 
Been out n about today, think think torque converter is squiffy :(
Going down a very steep hill from standstill, felt like there was no engine braking. Accelerator didn't do anything!! Until i accelerated even more and the tc locked up.
It's fine pulling away on the flat or uphill though
In D, there is no engine braking below torque convertor lock up speed, that's normal. Manually selecting a lower gear on most cars will produce engine braking.
 
In D, there is no engine braking below torque convertor lock up speed, that's normal. Manually selecting a lower gear on most cars will produce engine braking.
I was in D1 at the time, felt like it was in neutral, accelerator had no impact
 

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