Between Thursday and this afternoon did a 350ish mile trip to north Lincs and back to see an elderly relative. Also stopped for dinner with my parents and was supposed to have a meal out with friends not seen since early in the global lurgi, but they were unwell so missed that. Had dinner at Guy Martin's sister's pub in Kirmo instead. Really excellent food and service, thoroughly recommended, but good idea to book.
Got stuck in horrendous traffic at the M62 / M606 junction, took about 45 minutes to do 300 yards but no overheat or temperament. Came back via M1 past Rotherham - should have tried to call on @Rubberknees for a brew maybe. Then over the tops of the Pennines - good fun swoopy roads.
Only issues were cruise control still not playing (think I need to do the checks through the wiring troubleshooter - guessing pump or steering wheel switch / clockspring issue) and another leak through the front of the roof, so the EAS threw a fault from damp I think. Cleared with the Nanocom and didn't reappear.
He's now tucked up under his cover with a dehumidifier in, waiting for the new exhaust bits to be sorted and ready.
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
Between Thursday and this afternoon did a 350ish mile trip to north Lincs and back to see an elderly relative. Also stopped for dinner with my parents and was supposed to have a meal out with friends not seen since early in the global lurgi, but they were unwell so missed that. Had dinner at Guy Martin's sister's pub in Kirmo instead. Really excellent food and service, thoroughly recommended, but good idea to book.
Got stuck in horrendous traffic at the M62 / M606 junction, took about 45 minutes to do 300 yards but no overheat or temperament. Came back via M1 past Rotherham - should have tried to call on @Rubberknees for a brew maybe. Then over the tops of the Pennines - good fun swoopy roads.
Only issues were cruise control still not playing (think I need to do the checks through the wiring troubleshooter - guessing pump or steering wheel switch / clockspring issue) and another leak through the front of the roof, so the EAS threw a fault from damp I think. Cleared with the Nanocom and didn't reappear.
He's now tucked up under his cover with a dehumidifier in, waiting for the new exhaust bits to be sorted and ready.
Click to expand...
Should have got in touch been in all day. Well some one's got to watch the missis do the garden:)
 
pwood999 said:
Passenger seat fuse-20 has been blowing regularly. Removed the two under-seat relays, and it still blew randomly. Traced to the lumbar pump wiring.

Disconnected it, because I could not be bothered to remove the seat back cover. Seat motors all working again - passenger will have to do without lumbar pump !!
Click to expand...
I’ve got this problem. You have inspired me to have another go at fixing it!
 
This morning I opened up the sunroof on my L322 TDV8 (madness, but all worked including one-touch close!) and poured some soapy water down the drainage holes. Got a bit of blistering on the side/end of the driver’s side dash and worried that the water isn’t draining with all this rain. Came straight out the pass side but couldn’t see any liquid exiting the driver’s side. Raised the car up…VEHICLE LIFTING SLOWLY error. Anyway, got underneath and the water was slowly trickling down. Eventually had a small puddle of water. So looks like it’s draining a bit slowly. Perhaps a squirt of WD40 down the drainage hole might help?

Of more concern was the state of the air suspension tank reservoir. Rusty isn’t the word… That might explain the fault message. And why it sinks down at the rear after a couple of days parked up.

My Land Rover specialist must see a pot of gold arriving every time I pull up!!
 
brasso said:
This morning I opened up the sunroof on my L322 TDV8 (madness, but all worked including one-touch close!) and poured some soapy water down the drainage holes. Got a bit of blistering on the side/end of the driver’s side dash and worried that the water isn’t draining with all this rain. Came straight out the pass side but couldn’t see any liquid exiting the driver’s side. Raised the car up…VEHICLE LIFTING SLOWLY error. Anyway, got underneath and the water was slowly trickling down. Eventually had a small puddle of water. So looks like it’s draining a bit slowly. Perhaps a squirt of WD40 down the drainage hole might help?

Of more concern was the state of the air suspension tank reservoir. Rusty isn’t the word… That might explain the fault message. And why it sinks down at the rear after a couple of days parked up.

My Land Rover specialist must see a pot of gold arriving every time I pull up!!
Click to expand...
WD40 is not likely to clear a blocked sunroof drain, an air line might.
 
Khemitude said:
well cleaned the blue plug and gearbox seemed to behave the same anyway worth a shot though.

Found out the sponge material under the carpet drivers side is soaking wet, squeezing it seems to be clear and no sweet smell to it. O rings appear to be fine on the heater matrix and the spong material seems to be fine on that side section just below them so not coming from there, Looks like I'm missing the drain pipes that come out of those rubber bungs either side of the transmission tunnel though, but I haven't got working ac as there isn't a condenser on the car so I wouldn't have thought it would be from that.

Pulled off the kick panel passenger side and found an aux cable that seems to go towards the back. Was having a root round because yesterday out of nowhere sub decided it was going to start popping.
Click to expand...
If it's fresh water not coolant, the pollen filter covers and the screws on the scuttle are know causes of leaks.
 
Datatek said:
If it's fresh water not coolant, the pollen filter covers and the screws on the scuttle are know causes of leaks.
Click to expand...

Can’t say that it’s “fresh” what with only recently getting the car but it definitely appears to be clear when you squeeze the sponge material. I know there is definitely a leak from at least the pollen filter area on the drivers side and the other day my foot got wet a couple of times when pressing accelerator pedal and getting my head under the dash showed it dripping from the bottom of the mesh thing under there which I assume is the bottom of the pollen filter housing.
 
Well the drill pump didn’t work for the atf, I did originally pick up an oil syringe from screwfix but I checked it out in the car before I left, not only were the rubbers seals literally leaving bits in the tube I couldn’t really get it to pull a slight vacuum by holding my finger over the end showing oil would have just shot past the seals anyway.

the bottle of atf had a much shorter spout this time though but a big too big to actually squeeze into the full hole but either way it was enough that I could force some in when squeezing the bottle got maybe another 100-150ml in and it gave a good dribble this time so I reckon it’s the right amount this time. Will have to see how it drives now.
 
Well I borrowed the brother in law, his school grounds and the school wet vac and after a long time managed to pull around 500ml maybe more from the the sponge. It’s still holding a lot more though so gonna leave off the plastic step price and the seat surround off for a while and see if some air will get to it to let some passive dehumidifiers suck anything up.
 
Salisbury Nick said:
I’ve got this problem. You have inspired me to have another go at fixing it!
Click to expand...
Assuming your passenger seat is non-memory, then definitely pull the two relays first. That will prove if it's the lumbar wiring shorting, because everything else in the seat goes via the relays.

The lumbar is fed through the same connector that powers the recline & headrest motors (C952). My fix was to remove the Light Green & White connector pin from the housing & heat-shrink it. That way the 12V power feed to the faulty lumbar is removed, but the recline & headrest still work.

upload_2023-4-16_16-14-27.png
 
Got my brother in law to drive while I looked at the gearbox solenoids on the nanocom it turns out that it is actually swapping to 4th gear according the solenoids anyway. Seems to swap to 4th around 25mph I guess what I was feeling is the resistance from the torque converter and when it drops down on the revs a good deal it’s locking up and running one to one assuming that’s how a torque converter works anyway.
Cruise still seems to swim about a little when on but maybe it’s just cause I couldn’t get the switch to seat fully.

Still loosing coolant with no sign of where though.

When I took it on a longer drive to test earlier temp was heading back near the blue after the drive it quickly went back up to around the 1st white mark I know @kermit_rr put a hole in the stat but it seems like that’s still moving around a good chunk for it to change temp that much.
 
With respect to the temp gauge, you have to remember it's an idiot gauge controlled by the ECU without a direct connection to the sender. You can see the temp in nanocom, I'll bet it's not moving all that much, although it might move a bit as the stat items and closes.
I never really paid much attention to when it selected each gear, only when the tc would lock up which was about 30 in 3 and 48 in D.

Worth checking those blue pipes to the heater matrix, it was on my list of things to replace
 
kermit_rr said:
With respect to the temp gauge, you have to remember it's an idiot gauge controlled by the ECU without a direct connection to the sender. You can see the temp in nanocom, I'll bet it's not moving all that much, although it might move a bit as the stat items and closes.
I never really paid much attention to when it selected each gear, only when the tc would lock up which was about 30 in 3 and 48 in D.

Worth checking those blue pipes to the heater matrix, it was on my list of things to replace
Click to expand...

I’d already had a look at the blue pipes and as far as I can tell they seem fine. I’m gonna have to pick up some up dye. Part of me thinks it could still be the return pipe not getting a good as when nudged when it’s cold but still had some pressure it will bubble out on slightly on to the outside of the coolant bottle so maybe when it’s actually running and under more pressure it would open up on its own and let some out but it doesn’t seem like there are tell tales white signs that it’s happening there. Like I say maybe with some uv dye I will see something but seeing as I can’t seem to spot any signs as of yet I can’t help but think it’s internally loosing it.

Temp wise on the nanocom when I looked the other day it seemed to swim between 65-72ish though the needle was pretty steady then not quite as big jumps as today so I assume it may have had a much bigger swing today.
 
That seems a bit low, i was seeing 80-85 which i thought was ideal, sounds more like my bikes engine temp!! It won't do any harm though as it will still be running on the normal fuel map, not 'rich/choke'.
I suppose it could be an issue with the expansion bottle, it was a britpart replacement because i managed to damage the small bleed pipe connector underneath and it leaked.
I know the usual briitpart does but i thought it was ok
 
kermit_rr said:
That seems a bit low, i was seeing 80-85 which i thought was ideal, sounds more like my bikes engine temp!! It won't do any harm though as it will still be running on the normal fuel map, not 'rich/choke'.
I suppose it could be an issue with the expansion bottle, it was a britpart replacement because i managed to damage the small bleed pipe connector underneath and it leaked.
I know the usual briitpart does but i thought it was ok
Click to expand...
Yeah I thought it was rather low myself I suppose a new bottle and return hose might be worth a shot for both temp and coolant loss. Couldn’t hurt at the very least.
 
Khemitude said:
Yeah I thought it was rather low myself I suppose a new bottle and return hose might be worth a shot for both temp and coolant loss. Couldn’t hurt at the very least.
Click to expand...
Maybe you can't get a stable lower temp, it's a hack, not a lower temp thermostat at the end of the day.
My reasoning, it gives more room for error. Stat is fully open at 96, but there's stories of folks having issues not much over that
 
kermit_rr said:
Maybe you can't get a stable lower temp, it's a hack, not a lower temp thermostat at the end of the day.
My reasoning, it gives more room for error. Stat is fully open at 96, but there's stories of folks having issues not much over that
Click to expand...
Yeah I’m debating whether to get tank and hose and just suck some out of the tank rather than drain the whole system to avoid having to worry about airlocks or just say bugger it and go for a new stat aswell, with me seeing less temp than you were getting maybe it’s failed open or something and maybe that’s causing issues. Might be worth doing the uv dye first though if I do decide to do the stat so drain the whole system. I’m a bit reluctant though what with all the extra lpg gubbins feel like I’ve got a lot more chance for air lock.
 
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