Take the battery terminals off, undo the nut on each as much as you can, then use a screwdriver or similar to spread the clamp open as much as you can.
Put the clamp back on the terminal and tap it down, the terminal should be proud of the clamp, then tighten
 
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Checked oil level this morning, using the procedure we talked about the other day and nothing came out of the fill plug so quickly chucked some in maybe got 500ml in hard to tell as the bottle wasn't squeezing very well and when i tried to adjust the bottle a bit higher the end rested on the car and melted it so was leaking out of the back aswell so I don't know if when the fill plug was dribbling it was down to me getting enough in or if it was because some had gone down the bottle and was reasting the the threads.

Either way gonna pick some more up today and a proper syringe or something to actually push it into when its cold so probably tomorrow when I check again

Airbag light came on again yesterday, when i pulled over to plug the nanocom in it must had made connection again as it was back to intermittent so it let clear it, then when I gave the car a test after doing the gearbox oil this morning it came back on again tho this time permenant, unplugged the one under the steering wheel again and plugged it back in and it was fine and let me clear it again. the prongs themselves look fine so I reckon it must be loose connection on the wire part where it meets the prongs.

Probably doesn't help with the fact the metal framework behind the kick panel had been cut then just taped back so probably allowing it to jostle around a little.
 
That reminds me of being in hospital one time:rolleyes::rolleyes:
Had the same thing when I was in the nut house last december and meds had bunged me up... it was done by my pretty named nurse too... I've been in some rough situations but my god I never want to go through the aftermath of that again assuming were talking about the same side.

Definitely low then and that can cause the symptoms you mentioned. I used a big 250ml syringe with a rubber pipe on the end
Definitely, it seems to change from 3-4 a little more easier now but not quite where I think it should be so I think its still a touch low. Before it would be like you would hit a wall around 1800 rpm it would still technically gain speed slowly but to really get it in to 4th it seemed like you needed to hit that middle kickdown where it then would jump the revs to about 2200 and then it would move up to 4th.
 
Had the same thing when I was in the nut house last december and meds had bunged me up... it was done by my pretty named nurse too... I've been in some rough situations but my god I never want to go through the aftermath of that again assuming were talking about the same side.
Sounds like it but OH BOY the relief afterwards:):D:)

Definitely, it seems to change from 3-4 a little more easier now but not quite where I think it should be so I think its still a touch low. Before it would be like you would hit a wall around 1800 rpm it would still technically gain speed slowly but to really get it in to 4th it seemed like you needed to hit that middle kickdown where it then would jump the revs to about 2200 and then it would move up to 4th.
 
Checked oil level this morning, using the procedure we talked about the other day and nothing came out of the fill plug so quickly chucked some in maybe got 500ml in hard to tell as the bottle wasn't squeezing very well and when i tried to adjust the bottle a bit higher the end rested on the car and melted it so was leaking out of the back aswell so I don't know if when the fill plug was dribbling it was down to me getting enough in or if it was because some had gone down the bottle and was reasting the the threads.

Either way gonna pick some more up today and a proper syringe or something to actually push it into when its cold so probably tomorrow when I check again

Airbag light came on again yesterday, when i pulled over to plug the nanocom in it must had made connection again as it was back to intermittent so it let clear it, then when I gave the car a test after doing the gearbox oil this morning it came back on again tho this time permenant, unplugged the one under the steering wheel again and plugged it back in and it was fine and let me clear it again. the prongs themselves look fine so I reckon it must be loose connection on the wire part where it meets the prongs.

Probably doesn't help with the fact the metal framework behind the kick panel had been cut then just taped back so probably allowing it to jostle around a little.
I use a cheap garden sprayer with the nozzle removed to fill the gearbox.
 
OK done microswitches, all put back together and Nada again. No ignition, dash lights nothing.checked and cleaned earth's and locks still cycling with ignition off but stop when key turned to position 2.
Any ideas
Cheers
 
Well I guess it was placebo seems to actually drive same as before. Though when I left to car for maybe 40 minutes it seemed a touch smoother again but might just be me. Will see what the level is at tomorrow.
 
OK done microswitches, all put back together and Nada again. No ignition, dash lights nothing.checked and cleaned earth's and locks still cycling with ignition off but stop when key turned to position 2.
Any ideas
Cheers

You have checked the main ignition relay is working?
Think it can be swapped for A n other in the fuse box for testing.

Locks... I have no idea.

J
 
Well I guess it was placebo seems to actually drive same as before. Though when I left to car for maybe 40 minutes it seemed a touch smoother again but might just be me. Will see what the level is at tomorrow.
There is a heat sensor on the gearbox cooler. There are two plugs behind the passenger headlight. One blus on black. One is for the sensor and the other is for a fan (if fitted) on the gearbox rad. Check the sensor is fixed to the rad and check the plugs are connected and clean. ;)
 
There is a heat sensor on the gearbox cooler. There are two plugs behind the passenger headlight. One blus on black. One is for the sensor and the other is for a fan (if fitted) on the gearbox rad. Check the sensor is fixed to the rad and check the plugs are connected and clean. ;)
I assume they can be accessed from the top? Will definitely give them a check and worth giving them a clean aswell just to be sure.
 
You have checked the main ignition relay is working?
Think it can be swapped for A n other in the fuse box for testing.

Locks... I have no idea.

J
Yeah change them, on further investigation the dash does light up but is very faint and I'm only getting 9v on the main feeds to fuse box under drivers seat
 
Yeah change them, on further investigation the dash does light up but is very faint and I'm only getting 9v on the main feeds to fuse box under drivers seat

See you later when you have tracked down you missing 3v then:D.

J
 
There is a heat sensor on the gearbox cooler. There are two plugs behind the passenger headlight. One blus on black. One is for the sensor and the other is for a fan (if fitted) on the gearbox rad. Check the sensor is fixed to the rad and check the plugs are connected and clean. ;)

Talking petrol Mark no separate fans as they are both up in front of main rad. but yes has a temp sensor.

J
 

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