I shall whisper this just in case, my 3.6 egr are blanked and have been for some time now and runs fine no EML , I see else where that the 4.4 is a different matter though.Did this on the Freelander we had but that was the vac operated type too. As far as MOT is concerned, you can't see them as they are under the cover and the tester can't remove that. However, as far as my car is concerned the EGR is in fault (drove it last night and it was fine on the way out but after the 3rd start the EML came on). A tester will definitely notice the EML. So the net result of this latest fail is that my EGR is failing and blanking it was a folly as. So my choices now are: Replace the EGR(s) or replace the EGR tubes (for aesthetics) and map them out which is cheaper than the replacement. The dilemma there is then a moral one, I don't care if they are mapped out but the next owner might so I'd have to confess to doing it but that all still hinges on an emissions test.
I'm going to be putting a pair of EGRs in this aren't I? [sighs of acceptance]
frosty this morning, ice on the screen, car started instantly with no glow plug delay, definitely something not right there can't bear the idea of sending it back to the garage for another month need to figure this out myself, wish i wasnt such a diesel noob!!
no error codes
can't bear the idea of sending it back to the garage for another month need to figure this out myself, wish i wasnt such a diesel noob!!no error codes
Datatek
Well-Known Member
It's a direct injection diesel, except in extreme cold the glow plugs may not be needed for starting, my old Transit didn't even have glow plugs. You can easily check if the glow plugs are working either with a DVM or a test lamp, clip one probe onto any glow plug, assuming you can get at them, and the other onto the block, turn the key to position #2 and see if you get a voltage or the lamp lit.frosty this morning, ice on the screen, car started instantly with no glow plug delay, definitely something not right there
no error codes
understand, but when i first got it, after sitting overnight, there would be a second or so delay and the light would flick on briefly before starting.. maybe i just need to see how it goes, maybe its just deciding they dont need to be on for some reason.. i need to stop having car anxiety
dubbleRR
Well-Known Member
Iv noticed that forecourt diesel is lumpy on startup but ,when im towing i put more expensive ,and once a month or so better diesel in especially in the winter ,..The start up seems quieter an smoother at all temperatures ,,,I know people say theirs no difference but i have noticed it in more than one vehicle...
I've just filled up at my local Essar and done about 50 miles.. normally fill at either essar or shell as they are cheaper than supermarket.Iv noticed that forecourt diesel is lumpy on startup but ,when im towing i put more expensive ,and once a month or so better diesel in especially in the winter ,..The start up seems quieter an smoother at all temperatures ,,,I know people say theirs no difference but i have noticed it in more than one vehicle...
Standard diesel though not the premium stuff
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Stop worrying, just be thankful that the bludy thing starts, often they don'tunderstand, but when i first got it, after sitting overnight, there would be a second or so delay and the light would flick on briefly before starting.. maybe i just need to see how it goes, maybe its just deciding they dont need to be on for some reason.. i need to stop having car anxiety
Check the battery voltage before attempting to start, as it seems not to be getting a lot of use, the voltage may be low which may well affect things.
yes sir, i promiseStop worrying, just be thankful that the bludy thing starts, often they don't
Check the battery voltage before attempting to start, as it seems not to be getting a lot of use, the voltage may be low which may well affect things.
from what i've read so far, i'm best off disconnecting the battery to get a decent reading. also plan on putting it on charge when i get home, because, well, why not.. while its disconnected.
its had quite a bit of use over the last few days, but only 15-20 mile runs. planning on a longer run at the weekend
Datatek
Well-Known Member
No need to disconnect the battery to check the voltage, in fact it's better not to as the reading with no load may be misleading. Likewise if you have a decent modern charger, there is no need to look for trouble by disconnecting the battery to charge it. Connect the charger to the battery before connecting the charger to the mains.yes sir, i promise
from what i've read so far, i'm best off disconnecting the battery to get a decent reading. also plan on putting it on charge when i get home, because, well, why not.. while its disconnected.
its had quite a bit of use over the last few days, but only 15-20 mile runs. planning on a longer run at the weekend
understand, but when i first got it, after sitting overnight, there would be a second or so delay and the light would flick on briefly before starting.. maybe i just need to see how it goes, maybe its just deciding they dont need to be on for some reason.. i need to stop having car anxiety
That would certainly wrankle me. As Stuart says, even after the light goes out they're often still on until the engine warms up a little.
They'll get a temperature reading from somewhere so they stay on longer when it is colder. That reading must be controlled somewhere although God knows where on the L322 v8. That will then need to trigger a relay, no doubt with a fuse somewhere and as Datatek says, it should be easy to pick up that current from the top of the glowplug (or the wire if you cannot see / access the top of the glowplug).
i suppose it wont have done any favours being sat in the garage for a month.. not on charge, started just long enough to move it etc
Datatek
Well-Known Member
For sure the battery is unlikely to now be fully charged.
according to my previous research, the battery will at best, never be fully charged, to 'reduce strain' on the alternator or some rubbish, but yes i agree with you
thank you
i need to check the 60A maxi fuse then, i assume! i can also deduce, i can measure mV across the fuse to see if there is any activity
I've not found the engine yet!! never mind the injectors or glow plugs
thank you
i can also deduce, i can measure mV across the fuse to see if there is any activity
I've not found the engine yet!! never mind the injectors or glow plugs
There under a lot of stuff
.You dont want to see the other bits that say remove this, that and the other
.J
next question
what oil do we use in the 4.4? the ACEA-C1 doesnt exist anymore, i've seen ACEA-C4 recommended as an alternate.. but that seems hard to come by
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-218910...-fj-5w-30-fully-synthetic-car-engine-oil.aspx meets what the book says and not a bad price, but not generally available
what oil do we use in the 4.4? the ACEA-C1 doesnt exist anymore, i've seen ACEA-C4 recommended as an alternate.. but that seems hard to come by
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-218910...-fj-5w-30-fully-synthetic-car-engine-oil.aspx meets what the book says and not a bad price, but not generally available
I get my oil from Amazon, same spec for my Focus, Comma XTC 5w-30, I think it was £30 last time.next question
what oil do we use in the 4.4? the ACEA-C1 doesnt exist anymore, i've seen ACEA-C4 recommended as an alternate.. but that seems hard to come by
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-218910...-fj-5w-30-fully-synthetic-car-engine-oil.aspx meets what the book says and not a bad price, but not generally available
next question
what oil do we use in the 4.4? the ACEA-C1 doesnt exist anymore, i've seen ACEA-C4 recommended as an alternate.. but that seems hard to come by
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-218910...-fj-5w-30-fully-synthetic-car-engine-oil.aspx meets what the book says and not a bad price, but not generally available
J
that seems to be ACEA A5/B5 which isn't Low SAPS
ACEA C4 seems to be the right alternative now;
eg www.amazon.co.uk/5W-30-Fully-Synthetic-Engine-226-51/dp/B0BS9V9L6R/
