brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
Gave mine a quick wash and check over as it of to Brandshatch in the morning, going to the last race off the BTCC season, vip passes and a pit garage tour at 10am
I was wondering where he is too, hope you're ok @RangeRoller dt
Salisbury Nick
Well-Known Member
A Sledgehammer to crack a nut?
The last mechanic to work on this was way over enthusiastic with the impact driver. Tried a torque wrench then again on maximum, then a tyre iron, then with a hammer, then a lump hammer, finally a sledgehammer!
This is just to get the bloody wheel off so i can get to the ride height sensor!
The last mechanic to work on this was way over enthusiastic with the impact driver. Tried a torque wrench then again on maximum, then a tyre iron, then with a hammer, then a lump hammer, finally a sledgehammer!
This is just to get the bloody wheel off so i can get to the ride height sensor!
doriz
Well-Known Member
Shirley a longer breaker bar woulda been less abrupt?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
5 feet of scaffold tube on the end of the P38 wheel nut key will shift almost anything.
liliana fox
Active Member
Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
That is what I used to keep a chunky GT550 fork stanchion for. But it seems to have gone missing in the move this year.
Had same problem with my rears . Tried new impact wrench on them, no joy. Son had to put 4foot pole on breaker bar and then by standing and bouncing on it cracked the nuts. What the hell do these tyre fitters get out of it torquing the nuts so tight, don't they resalise to tight can cause damage
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
Well mine behaved beautifully to Brands and back a pleasure to drive and more room in the back for passengers, the trip read 32.4mpg in the end, i know they lie but its more than i have ever had so doing the modulation on the pump and a few other bits has made an improvement smother and quieter , i cant be bothered doing brim to brim so all in all a happy bunny
I didn't notice much difference TBH, I did 2 trips in my 4.6, one brim to brim and, one using the display, both same distance, showed 21.3mpgWell mine behaved beautifully to Brands and back a pleasure to drive and more room in the back for passengers, the trip read 32.4mpg in the end, i know they lie but its more than i have ever had so doing the modulation on the pump and a few other bits has made an improvement smother and quieter , i cant be bothered doing brim to brim so all in all a happy bunny
on the display and, after calculation 19.9mpg brim to brim, I couldn't be arsed to do it again either, good enough for me.
Salisbury Nick
Well-Known Member
I’m surprised no one commented that although it’s useful to have freed the nuts - it wasn’t required in order to check the ride height sensor. I spent bloody ages getting the wheel off then the wheel arch trim - and then I could not understand why I could not find the bloody sensor, then when I did - I realised all the effort was pointless, at least in respect of checking the sensor.
Either way, the job I was actually trying to do was to check and clean the contacts on the sensor coupler. Mission achieved - but no joy on fixing the underlying problem of an error on the Front Left sensor! Bugger.
Salisbury Nick
Well-Known Member
Today, removed the inlet manifold to get to the coolant hoses at the back of the engine and replaced the set of three hoses that connect the coolant fill tank with the engine. Went to put on a new inlet manifold and then realised it does not quite fit. Had to replace the old one instead.
Bolt holes?
If you can remover the sensor from its mounting, get it on a bench with a dvm and set to resistance. Clip it to the pins and find the resistance, I think it's the two outer pins!? Then slowly sweep the sensor through its range and closely watch the figures on the dvm. Any jumping or inconsistent readings mean the track inside has worn and gives bad feed back to the suspension system.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Outer pins show total resistance, middle and either outer will show the variable resistance as the sensor arm is moved, both outers should be checkedIf you can remover the sensor from its mounting, get it on a bench with a dvm and set to resistance. Clip it to the pins and find the resistance, I think it's the two outer pins!? Then slowly sweep the sensor through its range and closely watch the figures on the dvm. Any jumping or inconsistent readings mean the track inside has worn and gives bad feed back to the suspension system.
Salisbury Nick
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys. I’ll give that a try.
