When i parked up earlier today, got out, shut the door, pressed the fob lock button, heard the superlock motors engage :(
Only pressed the button once, the indicators only flashed once and there was no 30s delay

Bloomin' land rovers
 
Just took delivery of the bits and pieces, especially the engine and gearbox gasket sets are important! So next week I'll replace all the leaking gaskets I can get too, especially oil pan, rocker covers, transfer case and handbrake. Well, I also realized, while picking up the tools to fix the leaking piping in our bathroom, that the fuel breather hose is also leaking... One would think that a hose as bad as that one would be replaced along the tank in a garage. But then one would also think that a garage would properly tighten the screws of the filler cap. And there I was wondering why she spilled fuel. Well, at least the breather hose will done today, we need her for a short kayaking trip tomorrow. After almost 2k km with a potentially wrongly assembled carb another 40 won't hurt I guess.
 
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I fitted a new fuse box today. Prior to that though I bridged the relay for the aircon compressor and...nothing. It's like it's not even there. So I tested again with the new fuse box and got the same result. I can't access the plug connector to apply power directly to the compressor because of the way the LPG equipment was installed but second to that, one of the aircon pipes needs to be removed to get to it without dismantling the LPG system (there is a pic of this on another post of mine).
I also removed and replaced the LHR shockie. I went to do the right (when one goes I like to always replace the other one as well. That way I know they're both in the same condition and age.) but I couldn't get the wheel off, I could get all of the nuts off just not the wheel so I'll need to get under the car and persuade the wheel that it is for the best that it comes loose. Plus that aside, I couldn't finish torquing the LHR shock anyway because it started to rain so I had to pack up all of the electrical equipment i.e. the workshop aircon compressor (it's new and I don't want to risk it). So I'll have to wait until the weather clears. Given that I'm in Scotland and we had two beautiful sunny days just gone I can't see the weather improving much today.
Oh, I'd also found a few exhaust rubber mounts had worked loose and disappeared thus the exhaust hangers (no idea what they're called but they're attached to the exhaust) were clanging together which was very annoying when driving. It's never nice to hear metal banging on metal when you're driving.
For the EAS I'm just waiting for some new inline push-fit connectors for the bypass. I'm hoping that fixes the leak I was experiencing (the car wasn't squatting at the left rear like it was before overnight) with the ones that were fitted nearly 3 years ago. If I could cross my fingers they would be crossed.
Is there a way to make sure the EAS compressor is switching off when I'm driving? Because clearly what caused all this, to begin with, was the EAS compressor running constantly because of the leak and it just decided that it didn't want to do it anymore.

Oh, I nearly forgot. I also removed the throttle body, gave that a clean-up (it was filthy inside and out), I also replaced the heater plate and cleaned up the bodge a mechanic had done to stop the leak (he didn't manage to). So at the moment after running the vehicle while checking the aircon there was no evidence of leaks from that area. Hopefully it will stay that way. We shall see.

So with what started out as a possible starter motor failure a month ago & after the best part of £1,000 later (spent on parts & tools to do the work), quite a few more unexpected jobs have been done.

I'd just like to say a huge thank you for the advice from those here who were able to offer some. And I still have the new starter motor sitting unopened in its box. Oh well.

Exciting times.

Craig
 
MacMan6107 said:
is there a way to make sure the EAS compressor is switching off when I'm driving? Because clearly what caused all this, to begin with, was the EAS compressor running constantly because of the leak and it just decided that it didn't want to do it anymore.
Click to expand...

First start with making sure you have no leaks:).
Once you are sure then leave it flat and bonnet & door open and listen to the compressor. It should fill the tank and stop running (few minutes ours runs about 4).
then shut everything and the magic should happen:).

J
 
Just tried to fix the fuel leak. Well, no luck. The bottom end of the tank breather is brittle but not leaking, the upper end is so. I can get to it to replace it, it's brittle enough that tightening it doesn't help either. And with the tank full (I filled up to check fuel consumption...) I can't remove the bits and pieces to replace it. I guess it ahs to wait until next week. Hopefully she will empty the tank enough tomorrow that THIS stops to be a problem. Well, with the current thirst it should be ok I guess!
 
marjon said:
First start with making sure you have no leaks:).
Once you are sure then leave it flat and bonnet & door open and listen to the compressor. It should fill the tank and stop running (few minutes ours runs about 4).
then shut everything and the magic should happen:).

J
Click to expand...

The leak was caused by the connectors for the bypass. Which is why I am waiting on new ones, so I can reinstall it.
As for the filling the tank bit I'll do that tomorrow if the weather is better.
Thanks.
 
Checked every pin on each of the 4 relays for connectivity to the plug on the AC compressor, nothing :( am i doing something wrong or is something broked?
 
I’ve you put a jump wire with a spade end on each between 30 & 87 the clutch should engage thats the two that go across the relay
 
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