RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Could the matrix on the grass be what’s left of the original cats making their way out?
Assume i just need to increase the pressure output of the reducer, anyone know if i simply turn the screw until the fuel trims return to normal?
gold rover
Well-Known Member
The L322 and the P38 are not the same. The RRS is a Discovery, neither are an L322. Icarsoft from their own site state , "Works on most of 2004 and later OBDII compliant DIESEL European vehicles" and "Works on most of 2001 and later OBDII compliant PETROL European vehicles". Mine is neither of these.
Thanks, the help is appreciated, but trust me I have read, read and read again , before stopping the tail chasing and asking.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Running this long as it is would the trims not be incorrect without a reset/run in?
Running on petrol, they float either side of 0, ±3, when i switch to lpg they go +25 very quickly. Switching back to petrol and they return to normal in seconds.
That said i can do a reset in nanocom if needed
gold rover
Well-Known Member
Doesn't do EAS on P38 you need RSW's free software and @datatec's cable. On RR's after 2001 and other LR's it does quite a lot
thks, indeed ref the RSW , that’s what I think @gold rover will be going with because of the pre and post OBD2 issues
must admit looked into all the readers when I bought my D3 , being virtually the same as a RRS , so in the end went with the gap iid
always a head ache in narrowing it down what readers can and can’t do, plus having them bi directional as well so can activate sensors etc around the vehicle
found that a godsend to have , later on due to the complexity of the D3 will also an oscilloscope , quite like the Hantek
finally think having a decent multimeter and test light is also very beneficial
Remember my first car , a mk1 escort all I needed was a bog standard tool kit. How the times have changed
Few extra bits I got to help diagnose different systems , well can never have too many tools,
even more so when trying to find battery drain as can’t pull the fuses out due to the ecu design , then modifying a loom for heated windscreen washer jets
saddest part about it all is really enjoy working things out like this, yeh i know I need help, lol
remember when all u needed was a basic kit for the older motors , alas nothing like that now
even more so when trying to find battery drain as can’t pull the fuses out due to the ecu design , then modifying a loom for heated windscreen washer jets
saddest part about it all is really enjoy working things out like this, yeh i know I need help, lol
remember when all u needed was a basic kit for the older motors , alas nothing like that now
Remember my first car , a mk1 escort all I needed was a bog standard tool kit. How the times have changed
ur so right and funny enough just posted a thread of all the bits I’ve got when diagnosing the newer landies
know some of it is overkill but certainly made life a lot easier that’s for sure
Useto really enjoy working on my old vitesse or series landies
Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
Lass I knew with a Mk1 Escort years ago didn't even need a key. She kept one thumbnail a bit longer and used it for the door and the ignition, plus invested in a good Krooklock!Remember my first car , a mk1 escort all I needed was a bog standard tool kit. How the times have changed
Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
Got an afternoon tea in a box from a local garden centre cafe, took it to New Brighton for a midnight snack.
Otto was smooth and quiet cruising down there at 70 on the cruise control, no hunting, much quieter and better riding on the new tyres.
Bumped the suspension up to extended so were sitting in comfort with sandwiches and cakes, watching all the dock cranes buzzing about and using the ship tracker on the phone to see what the stuff going in / out at the top of the tide was.
Cruised back at 60 with the cruise on, just as nice but hunted a little on the speed setting and kept switching the overdrive lock in and out for the hills which he didn't at 70. Diverted of the motorway onto minor roads for the last 15 miles because of roadworks.
Discovered a few new things to look at though.
Bit wandery at speed, not as solid on line as I expected, so will get the garage to do the suspension bushes they advised about this time for the MOT. From the threads on here, and going for comfort that will be a set of standard ones not polybush.
Loved the variable brightness dashboard lighting.
Heater very hit and miss, expected with the aircon not working but still more vague than I would expect - all or nothing and a bit wilful on the fan speed. Think we have some slightly sticky / worn blend motors not helping as it is a bit slow to swap screen to face to others when you press a button in manual mode. Had two huge blasts of heat though, both while going round left hand bends - one a fast tight sweeper on the motorway, a bit brisker than was comfortable, the other on a tight slow right hander.
Checking him over and doing some measuring this morning with everything cold (need a jack with enough lift, make sure we get an ultrasonic cleaner big enough for the solenoid block, etc) I noticed that the coolant header tank looked empty - same dirty plastic all the way from bottom to top. Bit concerned, opened the pressure cap to be fountained over by about half a litre of coolant. Concerned now that this might indicate a head gasket issue from what I have seen on here (GEMS 4.0 1996) although temp gauge is stable, comes up briskly, drops OK, no signs of coolant leaks. Now wondering if there is some sort of trapped airlock or debris blocking the heater matrix causing the odd effects and being shifted occasionally by the right turns. After the coolant had fountained out, level in the header tank was a bit low, just showing above the bottom hose connection so started and ran him, topping up as required. Took about the amount that had been lost to get to the level it had been last time I checked. Top hose gets hot once the gauge is about half way to normal, not hard, soft and when squeezed the header tank level gurgles and moves. Bypass hose from the top of the radiator flows through to the header tank almost immediately on start up, which I thought was odd - shouldn't it only do that when the thermostat opens and the top hose gets hot? Or does it pressurise the rad system via the bottom hose and flow the bypass anyway?
So - aircon to search through and see what and where the leak is, get it solid and working again.
Coolant - chase the airlock / gasket / blockage / whatever and get that sorted.
Heater - maybe have to delve into the blend motors and the like, in due course.
Otto was smooth and quiet cruising down there at 70 on the cruise control, no hunting, much quieter and better riding on the new tyres.
Bumped the suspension up to extended so were sitting in comfort with sandwiches and cakes, watching all the dock cranes buzzing about and using the ship tracker on the phone to see what the stuff going in / out at the top of the tide was.
Cruised back at 60 with the cruise on, just as nice but hunted a little on the speed setting and kept switching the overdrive lock in and out for the hills which he didn't at 70. Diverted of the motorway onto minor roads for the last 15 miles because of roadworks.
Discovered a few new things to look at though.
Bit wandery at speed, not as solid on line as I expected, so will get the garage to do the suspension bushes they advised about this time for the MOT. From the threads on here, and going for comfort that will be a set of standard ones not polybush.
Loved the variable brightness dashboard lighting.
Heater very hit and miss, expected with the aircon not working but still more vague than I would expect - all or nothing and a bit wilful on the fan speed. Think we have some slightly sticky / worn blend motors not helping as it is a bit slow to swap screen to face to others when you press a button in manual mode. Had two huge blasts of heat though, both while going round left hand bends - one a fast tight sweeper on the motorway, a bit brisker than was comfortable, the other on a tight slow right hander.
Checking him over and doing some measuring this morning with everything cold (need a jack with enough lift, make sure we get an ultrasonic cleaner big enough for the solenoid block, etc) I noticed that the coolant header tank looked empty - same dirty plastic all the way from bottom to top. Bit concerned, opened the pressure cap to be fountained over by about half a litre of coolant. Concerned now that this might indicate a head gasket issue from what I have seen on here (GEMS 4.0 1996) although temp gauge is stable, comes up briskly, drops OK, no signs of coolant leaks. Now wondering if there is some sort of trapped airlock or debris blocking the heater matrix causing the odd effects and being shifted occasionally by the right turns. After the coolant had fountained out, level in the header tank was a bit low, just showing above the bottom hose connection so started and ran him, topping up as required. Took about the amount that had been lost to get to the level it had been last time I checked. Top hose gets hot once the gauge is about half way to normal, not hard, soft and when squeezed the header tank level gurgles and moves. Bypass hose from the top of the radiator flows through to the header tank almost immediately on start up, which I thought was odd - shouldn't it only do that when the thermostat opens and the top hose gets hot? Or does it pressurise the rad system via the bottom hose and flow the bypass anyway?
So - aircon to search through and see what and where the leak is, get it solid and working again.
Coolant - chase the airlock / gasket / blockage / whatever and get that sorted.
Heater - maybe have to delve into the blend motors and the like, in due course.
I think your engine has the same 'heart' thermostat as mine (thor)? It has a bypass valve, which shuts as the main part opens, this allows full flow. Top hose gets hot before thermostat opens
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Do you mean a bed spanner and a hammer to adjust it to size.Remember my first car , a mk1 escort all I needed was a bog standard tool kit. How the times have changed
stuu
Well-Known Member
Rsw iv not used it myself.
Everything i own and 85% of what i work on is bmw somehow so a cheep engine scanner. Bmw Inpa. Delphi and a snapon gets me by
Inpa works with everything to do with a td6 2003 vogue. Sometimes the abs module takes 2 or 8 attempts to get into or just randomly clears the fault.
It will fully function with 2002 to 2005 diesels including air suspension.
Yes its a bit on a budget for a laptop software yes its a pain having to translate from german at times.
But it will do everything needed for gold rover.
I will apologise for late replying. Trying to get customers cars done. The day job, and my skid car ready for weekend event and not sitting down much.
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From what i can find, seems like i just tweak until it works
Gord Wedman
Well-Known Member
Re: the Hantek scope
Kerry Wong has just done a review of the Hantek portable oscilloscope on YouTube. The Owon 1HDS272S is probably a better unit
Was the engine hot when you took the cap off? I would expect it to dump coolant if so
Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
Morning after - stone cold. I don't open a hot system, seen pictures of what happens on a first aid course years ago.
It foamed as it came out, which is why I was worried about head gasket maybe, but hasn't shown any signs of bubbles or foaming before, so I presume just pressure release like opening a shaken coke bottle. And no signs of bubbles / foaming as I ran it up to temperature with the cap off after either.
It was almost as if it was pressurised from somewhere else with an airlock which had pushed the coolant up into the header tank and kept it there. But I can't see from the diagrams and my understanding of coolant systems how it could do that. Air rises, so should logically trap at the header tank, or thermostat, or top of radiator. And no sign of any problem with that previously.
